BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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Paul Wightman has done this very thing and more besides, a post is on the green forum here though it appears some of the pictures have expired
However you may need to wade through a certain amount of misinformation in this post to get to the truth
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According to RAVE the sticky up bit seems to be held together with 3 screws in from the back and then the lense is held in to the sticky up bit with 2 nuts once you split the sticky up bit apart
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In case the one you have isn't enough here is its big brother - even has a pneumatic freespool already fitted
I reckon you could make it fit though you'd need some 110 rear springs on the front
41ft/min with 10 Land Rovers chained to the back
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Set of simex, position wheel on eco-terrorist, floor accelarator and dump clutch.
Sorry...
Now there is a good reason to have permanent 4x4
You can get 4 of them at a time instead of 2
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265/75R16 are 32" approx, 255/85R16 are 33" approx
I personally don't like a standard Tdi on anything bigger than 32" for regular use on the road as it feels too dead and unresponsive IMHO, I gave up running the 33x12.50R15s as everyday tyres several years ago partly for this reason and partly because they don't do anything for the steering feel! A fiddle with the fuel pump livens things up but then it livens them up even more on smaller tyres B)
My 265s rub "somewhere" on the 90 on full articulation but only just and certainly no damage so there shouldn't be any problem on a 110, the only drawback I can see is the reduction in turning circle - but if that is an issue then you could put either size on offset rims like white 8 spokes which will give a better turning circle than std. I used to have 31x11.50R15s on white 8 spokes on my old 90 at one point and the steering stops had been adjusted by the previous owner to give better lock, they didn't rub at all and it was noticably tighter turning, because of the offset rims (they were 8x15 Mangels IIRC)
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PMSL @ Geoff
I was thinking more like something off an oil rig
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what about fitting these mesh type lamp protectors, like all the smart folk do?
not sure they'll do much if you reverse into a tree though
They are from the same dept of H & S that makes you wear a plastic hardhat when standing under a 20 ton container hanging off a crane, in case the container falls on your head
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Landrover do an anti-squeal belt...
However it is very expensive,
..and F all use!
have had them on both mine and when they get dirty, they squeak
PQS000030 for early 300Tdis with big alternator pulley (replaces ERR3287)
PQS000040 for later 300Tdis with small alternator pulley (replaces ERR5911)
BTW a fairy liquid bottle is good for squirting water accurately for the "water test"
Just don't hit the fan or you'll get wet
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As Jim says it is a sealed 6203 bearing - they are commonly found as motorbike wheel bearings so try a bike shop for a "generic" 6203. My old Yamaha XT350 has them on the rear wheel.
If wading etc is on the agenda it might be as well to carefully dig the sealing ring out and stick a bit more grease into the new one before it is fitted.
I have had Tweety Pie jammed in the fan belt on both my 300Tdi's, on mine it is caused by dirt in the belt from where I wash the underneath of the vehicle off by giving it a good blast through a disused quarry, but the dirty water gets into the belt and then squeals when it dries out.
You can take the belt off and clean it but as I would get bored of doing this about once a week I have a small container of very fine graphite powder in the garage (the stuff used for lubricating padlocks, available from hardware stores) a quick puff of this onto the belt while the engine is running and it shuts up! There is so much grip on a 300 serpentine belt that there is no problem with the belt slipping and it usually lasts about a month or so before needing re-treatment. Container of graphite costs about 50p and does it loads of times so about 1p a treatment isn't bad value! You can also carry it with you as an instant cure for if it starts squawking!
Don't try and lubricate the belt with anything wet. I, or people I know, have tried just about every substance known to man (it's a dusty environment here in the summer so if you are following another vehicle on a gravel road you can get the same problem with grit in the belt) and anything that will dry out (WD40, oil, soapy water, furniture polish, proper belt dressing....) will last about 5 min and then make it squeak even more!
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I did a bit of fiddling with a 200Tdi a while ago and IIRC the bits were in much the same place and it certainly went better afterwards B)
Turbo boost is lower on a 200Tdi so arguably the best place to start would be to raise that from 12 (?) to 15psi same as a 300. That is assuming you can shift it without breaking anything after at least 11 years
I decided it was going to break and left it. -
Nick, I thought you would have said "why copy it when you can buy the real thing for £50"
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On the Discovery the aerial is a separate element, same idea (a thing printed on the window) but doesn't use the same bit. Not sure what would happen if you fed 12V into the radio input when the HRW was switched on!
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I don't know "how much" wheelspin is required to stiffen up the drive to both axles but as Bish says not very much, certainly much less than ETC requires before it wakes up!
I had a Freelander for a while and although the car had obvious limitations off road, one thing that wasn't a problem was the drive to the back wheels. The Freelander viscous works on a slightly different principle but it is much the same thing inside, a couple of paddle things in a bucket of lumpy custard which doesn't like being stirred, but the combination of this and cross-axle ETC was something I couldn't fault, you could do ridiculous full throttle hill starts on steep icy roads and the thing would just take off where most vehicles would be sliding all over the place!
The one thing I hated about it was what it did to gravel driveways. The drag from the viscous coupling and the different speeds of front and rear wheels in a tight turn tends to "push" the front wheels wide when cornering on loose surfaces, and over a period of a week or so it would heap up all the gravel on the outside of the driveway which was incredibly annoying
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I use Photobucket and I have heaps and heaps of photos on there, time I had a clearout really.
The links don't expire like PhotoIsland used to, which is good for tech posts for the archive.
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Incidently, could someone tell me why Landrover never offered the 265 size as an option on the 110?
I believe it was because they reduced steering lock making an already appalling turning circle even worse!
I now have 265s on my 90 and they rub on the radius arms when turning so definitely do reduce steering lock.
A shame they now fit Grabber TR 235's because it was the nearest LR ever came to fitting a decent tyre as std
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£3.50
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Some people really don't have enough to do......
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I've never seen a NATO 76mm trailer ring that doesn't swivel, unless it is seized up!
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Locked - the swivelly bit is just so you can roll the trailer off road without noticing
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Interesting idea Si - if you get any further on that thought let me know
Dad has always had an old Tirfor on the farm. I think it is the T516 model (though an older version of the 1600kg one in the write up) though all labelling has long since departed!
It is amazing what you can pull with them if you have enough people to wear out - I remember when I was very young, our biggest 4WD Ursus tractor (weighs about 7 tons) fell into a peat bog (literally) when cutting peat on a peat bank with a McConnell Arm, the bank gave way under the nearside wheel and the whole lot slid into the bottom. After various unsuccessful attempts using other machines they eventually got it out using the Tirfor, which I remember was anchored to a couple of other tractors and a Land Rover all tied together! I think there were three of the gang swinging on the handle and I seem to remember it just about killed all of them but it got the tractor out
They also last for ever - this old Tirfor has been on the farm for as long as I can remember and has always had the same cable etc. and no maintenance worth mentioning. They probably don't make them like they used to though!
Adam, David Bowyer sells a petrol engined capstan winch, I guess that is the sort of thing you mean? Quite expensive though, and a bit big to carry for occasional use
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Just been reading the Sept issue of LRO which arrived the other day and spotted a review of hand winches. Not expecting a great deal (this of course being an LRO product review which mostly just tells you which of the advertisers sells each one...) I turned to page 142.... as I can't easily fit a rear winch to the 90 I have been considering getting a hand winch as an alternative to walking and also something I can use in different vehicles if required.
I did learn something interesting though.
Look closely at the five different 1600kg winches on test (the sixth one is a baby Tirfor). Take the Tirfor TS16 and the Black Rat. Hmmmmm looks absolutely identical except the Black Rat has been painted black and has a different label on it
Then the First Four GP1600, T-Max and Lifting & Crane one. All 3 are exactly the same thing down to every last screw and casting, except for the label and paintwork! And if I am not much mistaken the mid sized JetRope sold by Alfred Murray is also exactly the same unit...
Bit of badge engineering or what? Six "different" winches are actually two ... but some serious differences in price! Scorpion sell the Tirfor for £487 according to the article, if you don't mind chiselling the badge off and having a ratty black one it'll cost you just £264. Bit pricey for a name change
The other ones vary a lot too from £225 for the First Four down to £125 for the L&C version
Just shows that it pays to shop around!
Has anybody broken any of them? I might get the T-Max version as I have some dealings with Bearmach so can probably get a better price than the one published and the shipping will be easier, but if not I think it'll be off to Lifting & Crane. It's not a lot of money for something that just might be a bacon-saver at some point
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New series coming soon to LRtv:
"How clean is your 90?"
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A bit like "a certain ground anchor" prob OK to replicate as long as not being sold commercially....
who makes the originals? or is that what you are trying to find out?
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What's the idea of the seat belt bolted to the Scrap Iron ones then?
I decided it was going to break and left it.
Waterproofing A V8
in Land Rover Technical Archive
Posted
Once upon a time somebody - I think it may have been John Craddock - used to advertise a completely waterproof V8 ignition setup. I seem to remember it was some sort of double insulated leads and a special dizzy cap. I also seem to remember it was about £300! - not sure if it worked but might be worth some enquiries if you are willing to spend that sort of money on solving the problem.