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BogMonster

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Posts posted by BogMonster

    Finally Had To Do It

    in International Forum

    Posted

    I think your Not meant to use the MM in high for winching at all!

    something to do with the flow inside the winch.

    Jim D90SV was telling me IIRC

    I have heard differing opinions on that Tony ... some say you can, some say not

    Milemarker quote a line pull in high range on their website here which would suggest that you can. I'd be interested to hear any evidence that there is a problem though, has anybody broken one doing this? perhaps only if fed on higher pressure than the std pump provides? Jim, any comments/experience on this?

    It doesn't seem to worry mine anyway, if you do overload it in high it just stops when the pump relief valve opens, you can tell when it's getting close as you get a slightly "hydraulicy" noise just before it stalls. I guess it will do the same thing in low but I haven't found that yet. I washed the plasma as it was getting a bit mucky and because it holds so much water I took it to the container yard at work and hooked it onto a stack of 20' ISO containers (stacked 2 high) to give it a good pull in low range to squeeze most of the water out. Shifted the heap of containers - oops :unsure: oh well they were only about 5 tons next time I must find something heavier :rolleyes:

    Finally Had To Do It

    in International Forum

    Posted

    though it was down to my own laziness....

    I have been using the tie-down rings on the front for hooking the winch cable on to then today due to a minor "misjudgement" I did this:

    mmburied.jpg

    mmburied2.jpg

    Well it looked hard.....

    Had to do a fair bit of excavation even to get to the winch cable, couldn't even feel the damn hook never mind get it off! so I had to use the snatch block and double line it as I couldn't free the end of the cable.

    A sensible (i.e. much higher up) place to hook the cable on to is a problem to be addressed on my new winch bumper I think :ph34r:

    But I learned something useful: double lining a MM in high range actually works quite well, 3 x the speed of single line in low range and I guess about 3500lb pull which was easily enough to move this even when buried down to the bumper. I have never used a snatch block with the MM before (you don't need to in low range) but double line in high range is something I might use more often as it is a good compromise of speed/power :)

    Cutting Metal....

    in International Forum

    Posted

    I am going to make the outer bits stronger though, I have bent the std outer bumper ends a few times on the old 90, and box section should be much stronger than C-section like the ordinary bumper

    A couple of proper towing hitches are also on the "maybe" list though they are 'kin expensive!

    Cutting Metal....

    in International Forum

    Posted

    I did think of that but I want it nice and strong and I figured with it only being 4mm if I tapered it the end would be likely to bend, which is something I want to get away from.

    Might change my mind yet though :D

    I don't have oxyacetylene either :unsure: (though I could use the one at work)

    Cutting Metal....

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Thanks ... when I get that far I'll give it a whirl with the jigsaw and see what happens

    At the moment I am fiddling with the KittyGripper design, oh and doing a damage assessment on stuff like how round most of the bolt holes aren't :ph34r:

    What I have in mind is that when I build the winch bumper I have the support leg off the side of a Portakabin (90x90x4mm box section) which is going to form the main part of the bumper with an 8 or 10mm plate let into it for the winch mounting, but I don't want to just hack the ends off square so I thought I would try and cut it from the back edge into a curve like on a std LR bumper, leaving the front face intact, then flatten the front face round and weld it to give a completely sealed box ... should be waterproof (no internal corrosion) and nice and strong for popping a tow rope onto. I'll probably do the ends first as it will be easier to work with just the box section than after I've added 1/2 ton of steel plate to it! What I really need is the front off an old chassis to use as a template for the mounts ... I don't want to take the MM off until the bumper is almost finished and ready for a test fit, and stuff usually changes size between when I measure it and when I later go to fit it :ph34r: so being able to build it "on a chassis" (even if only the front 2ft!) would be a bonus!

    I hope I'll be able to cut everything else in straight lines with the grinder... otherwise I will be up a certain creek without a certain instrument :unsure:

    Cutting Metal....

    in International Forum

    Posted

    This might seem like a silly question but ... how thick a bit of steel can you get away with cutting with a jigsaw, given a few spare blades and a reasonable amount of patience?

    I'm looking at doing something that requires some curves, don't have any access to any lovely kit like a plasma cutter :( it needs to be neater than a gas axe, and cutting bendy things with a grinder or hacksaw doesn't really work ... so I'm wondering if a jigsaw would cope, never really tried anything thicker than about 1mm. I know they are only really supposed to do thin stuff but would it cope with 4mm? I have never tried it and I only have 1 bit of metal the size I need so don't want to start and then find it doesn't work and I have F'ed it up! The only other stuff I have lying around is either a lot thicker or a lot thinner so no good for experimentation and if I can't find a way of doing what I want to do I'll have to fiddle with the design a bit. If it'll do 6mm that would be even better :)

    Ta

    Whistling Turbo

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    All Tdi turbos whistle when working hard, some people will say they don't but I think it is down to people's hearing, I have never heard a turbo that doesn't but I have very good high frequency hearing.

    But if there has been a sudden and noticeable change then yes you probably do have a problem.

    I would check for:

    - split/detached hoses (air escaping, though usually more of a hiss than a whistle if it happens)

    - blocked air filter

    - split or otherwise leaking intercooler, whistle will be air escaping

    - delaminated turbo hose (usually the little 90 deg one that comes out of the turbo heading towards the intercooler, looks OK from the outside but a layer peels off the inside and blocks the airflow, you will have to take it off for a look but only 2 jubilee clips to remove)

    - damage to the impeller vanes (take the inlet/outlet hoses off and get a mirror and a torch and see if there is any obvious damage to the vanes) I once saw a 300Tdi turbo that had sucked something through the impeller, a lump was missing out of every leading edge on the impeller, worked fine but sounded "just a bit noisy" about 10 x the usual whistle!)

    I've never actually blown up a turbo nor do I know anybody that has, so I'm not sure what they sound like when they are knackered but it might be a sign of impending failure. More likely to be one of the above causes though IMHO.

    The other thing that makes them whistle is if you wind the fuelling right up, that brings the noise (and power) up a bit :D

    Which Rear Propshaft For 1995 Disco?

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    There is a new part number for the coupling kit which is TVF something so probably yes, I can't check at the moment but that is probably right. Just a superceded number AFAIK.

    I would be inclined to fit the UJ at each end type, this is fitted to some later V8 Disco's I have seen a 1998 model one with a twin UJ rear prop (factory fitted) though my own 1996 model had a doughnut.

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