BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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6 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Is this for the manual pump tip type?
Electric TT3621 - now been told that a 32 hydraulic oil is the thing to use. Manual may be the same - mine has the manual lever but tried it today and by heck it's slow!
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Google has failed to educate me, I need to top up (and probably change) the oil on my Ifor tipper as some of it has mysteriously disappeared.
So far I see a suggestion that 10w40 engine oil is OK, and another that a 32 weight hydraulic oil is fine. I can't see anything that actually specifies what is in it from the factory. Anybody know?
Ta
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20 hours ago, Snagger said:
Air suspension gets hammered here in the UAE. Winter temperatures are lovely, around the high twenties to low thirties. But summers are brutal, sometimes exceeding 50oC, and that causes the rubber to perish and crack. Ad very abrasive sand that blows everywhere (honestly, cars look dirty half an hour after washing them in summer), further damaging the air springs but also clogging the filter on an already overworked compressor and it's just a ridiculous system to have. The seven seat D2s all got refitted with coils (unless that was standard spec for them here, unlike the rear EAS and ACE in Europe). Discoverys, L322s and L405s need new springs every three years here. Coils will be an absolute necessity for any serious offroader here or in other harsh climates.
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That. Same issues here, for different environmental reasons. Winter roads are just a sea of abrasive mud that is like valve grinding paste. Brake pads can wear out in a couple of weeks if it is really bad, carp gets into the sensors and everything else, and crater-sized potholes hammer the suspension to bits.
The live axle system on the D2 was about the best compromise, better suspension control than the old Defender layout and the big radius arm bushes were very robust, but none of the complexity and alignment issues of independent.
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The theory of air suspension is great, it's the practice that sucks, some (or a lot) of which could be down to the way it's implemented.
The pro-air folk have obviously never had to drive a vehicle on flat suspension for 30 or 40 miles along rough potholes gravel roads on the bump stops after the bong bong bong shhhhhhh. It just isn't dependable if you're going anywhere remote, the limp home mode is massively crippled, and nor is it easy to fix (haunted by memories of 2mm differences in the floor level when trying to calibrate Discovery 3 suspension at the dealership).
Air has proven to be consistently fairly unreliable in harsh environments and unsealed roads, the springs fail and so does the control gear. Nearly every Discovery 2 in this country has long since been modded back to steel springs.
Some of that may be Land Rover specific, but do we think they've worked out how to make air suspension when the P38, newer RR, Discovery 2, 3 and 4 all have questionable air suspension systems? I don't have much faith in that, though I accept that choosing it as an option might be essential to maintain decent off road clearance, as it is on the Discovery 3/4.
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Was there a decent sized bang or anything like that?
That vehicle will have a 2 pin rear diff which probably looks like the next stage of this one which is about 1 decent welly boot full of throttle away from a fkin big bang and much the same symptoms...
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Beautifully put!
It's all made up carp and it'll never happen anyway...
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I've never been under a D5. Anybody got access to one to check it out?
The problem with those independent suspension arms is that the sort of clout on a rock which is easily done, and shrugged off by an axle, will result in either a 4 figure suspension realignment job or a new set of tyres every 5000 miles. I've seen it on the D3s.
I too am starting to wonder if it is all just a stunt to keep people guessing. I said for years that I didn't believe that it existed at all. Maybe it's actually something else? I look at this one and the way the wheels sit in the arches is either a complete cock up of styling or it's still a complete mule body - perhaps meaning that the real body still hasn't been fitted.
Hanging onto the Shogun for the moment till I see it, but sort of preparing to be disappointed...
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Eight year old post so you'll be lucky to get a reply from the OP as they only ever posted 3 times!
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I have 90 rears on the front of my 110 with a winch, and a 1.5" lift on the back via spacer blocks. It sits perfectly - and the real springs are both handed and will last longer than most of the aftermarket ones some of which go flat pretty quickly.
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Yep, siren/speaker outlet behind the grill. Pipes the nee naw to the front from a remote speaker.
Service police or possibly an airport bird scarer, though if the latter it should be yellow not white. We had a couple imported here through the dealership years ago with that sort of setup, and also a squawker that made injured bird noises. Unfortunately the sound of an English pigeon/crow being tortured proved somewhat unfamiliar to Falklands birdlife, so I think they resorted to just shooting stuff which is a common language....
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Have a look at this thread:
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If you have the two button alarm fob, check out the Definitive Alarm Spider post in the technical archive forum on here. If it has the older one button alarm I don't think it will be that.
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I don't think it is a problem - i.e. as long as you want. I don't think there is anything in the ECU, with the possible exception of fault codes, that requires power.
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"Go" pedal lights up and changes to "No Go" when the electronics fail...
I can't decide if I hate the inside already, or it might be bearable. It doesn't look to have nearly enough controls to be real/final so could be a concept model. Initial thoughts reminded me of 200Tdi Discovery and old Daihatsu/L200 - as in a bit square and cheap looking, and the probably fake rivets/metalwork on the steering wheel are irritating.
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Seems active on Companies House https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/07273210
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Ah, all clear now. Thanks!
Makes you wonder why they didn't make the wider arches with that bit in
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On 2/5/2019 at 9:51 AM, Mudmonkey said:
I've just fitted a set of these to my project, I've only gone for the fronts as I have a hi cap tub so standard width arches should be ok on the rear.
As said above, they fit into the normal holes under the wing using the usual trim clips with a bit of enlarging of the holes in the arch, you do have to cut up your old front arches to bridge the gap between arch and arch liner, or buy a cheap pair of arches to chop up if you want to keep your old ones.
Thanks. Any chance of a photo of the inside of the arch where the fixings are, I am still not sure what the issue is.
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On 2/3/2019 at 9:46 AM, miketomcat said:
Would it not be easier to change the whole seat belt I bought some i think 4m belts for the ibex because the 3m standard belts were a bit snug.
Mike
May well be. Where would one find such a thing?
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Just seen a link to these on Defender2:
https://www.flatdoguk.com/defender-wide-arches-+30mm~2762
Has anybody on here got a set? Any chance of a photo of how they fix on if so?
Ta
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Anybody?
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I have a dim recollection that something odd can happen with the master cylinder seals, they somehow turn inside out or something weird, very unusual, so a master cylinder problem is not to be ruled out. We had one years and years ago at the garage with a problem something like that, nobody had touched the master cylinder so it was largely ignored, and it turned out that something had happened to the seal inside the cylinder.
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I think you want to find a new garage that knows what they are doing. When you say "dropped the box" what actually happened - do you know / did they admit it? Do you mean they didn't pull it out of the clutch when they took the box out of the vehicle, or they literally dropped it?
It sounds like the possibilities are either some damage to something that hasn't been identified (input shaft bent) or there are still defects in the system (the Td5 flywheel is a known weak point and they were all replaced under a recall at some point in their life).
It could be just hydraulics/air in the system but it could be something else. Really hard to say without seeing it when you know 'something' has happened but are not sure what.
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Fit some genuine ones. The aftermarket ones are nearly always the same size (genuine are handed L/R to make the vehicle sit level) and last no time. My 110 is still on original springs with no sag, 12 years old now and 2400kg on the weighbridge when empty.
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After posting the above I decided it was ridiculous so attacked the problem with calipers. Turns out the Puma tongues are about 3mm thick, whereas the Tdi ones are about 2.5mm. So the extension tongues need to be max 2.5mm thick to fit into the buckles.
Thoughts and musings on the new defender
in New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
Posted
^ Yup, agree with all that Snagger.
Making a modern plastic LR good offroad is like making a cat hover. It can certainly be done, but it's a bit pointless when you consider the additional functionality is still fatally flawed, the functionality is not really much use at all for its main intended role, and the whole premise relies heavily on expensive, complicated and inherently unreliable and overstressed technology that will probably break just when you don't want it to.
Only a man who wears collars like Dumbo's ears would seriously think it was a good idea. Meet Gerry.