keeley75

Once you start poking stuff you find more to do. The Throttle Position Sensor although appearing to work fine has always required constant calibration. The upper and lower limits kept changing significantly. Lucas replacements are unavailable. So as suggested in this forum I got one of the TPS kits. I got one from here as it was the cheapest online. https://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/sp002-rover-v8-throttle-pot-upgrade-kit/ You get a sheet of paper and the bits.. Well made and easy to assemble. Unscrew original TPS. I left the gasket in place. Attach spindle and bearing assembly plate to inlet manifold using the countersunk screws. Slide on Colvern TPS ensuring there is some resistance to the fitment. Screw on cover plate ensuring not to over tighten screws. Into Tunerstudio and Calibrate TPS. Finished. The Colvern TPS has the following wiring. Earth - Black 5v - Blue TPS Signal - Red

Gentlemen. You have got me in the right direction and found the issue. AE was the culprit. TunerStudio had AE TPS set to 100%. With No reference to VE. Think thats the way to explain it. I changed the ratio to 50:50 and it allowed subtle but noticeable changes to the off idle stumble. Flattening out the TPS graph has fixed the hole when you tread lightly on the pedal. With this change it's also no longer dumping loads of fuel in these cells causing this erratic table. The off idle drive is stronger and smoother I owe you both a Pint.

Guys thanks for the reply. can I confirm then. 1. AE is incorrect and it’s causing a misfire. 2. The cells shouldn’t go above 100 3. Set AE so it doesn’t activate and retune these cells so the VE table is correct before applying AE 4. Should I manually adjust the spikes in the table first ? Thanks in advance

No exhaust leaks. I was under the impression not to tinker with `AE until the map was done.

Wow thanks for the quick reply. Acceleration enrichment. At the moment I’ve not done much with it. It hesitates ever so slighty and picks up. It’s on the todo list. AFR is here, It’s from this forum. My previous AFR was 14.7 everywhere. just to cover Your experience and knowledge. It doesn't burn oil, it’s no losing water internally. No misfire. the rest of the table tunes fine with the odd change here and there. In the interim should I manually correct some of the cells. Play with the AE and then have another go.? Oh and should the values go- above 100. Again thanks for your time.

Dear All, can anyone shed some light on my VE table.. 3.9 V8 on Autobox H180 cam. Everything else standard except skimmed heads. Standard 3.9 injectors Tunerstudio Innovate LC2 wideband. This is the table after using the auto tune facility. The vehicle starts, idles and drives very well. As you can see the values appear odd. I would expect there to be a gradual rise. What I get at 1200rpm is a fluctuation from 82 to 168. Is this normal. Also can you confirm the values are just numbers and do not relate to the percentage of ‘fuel load’. I have scoured the forums and most appear to use megatune where it uses volumetric efficiency Kpa vs rpm. I apologise if I’m being a right numpty here. I’ve read so much my head hurts. Hoping for some guidance.

Next job, Water/coolant leaks Ever since this this was built I’ve never really solved the persistent drip from the water pump and bottom radiator hose. The car is fitted with an Allisport radiator. The silicon top hose seals fine and doesn’t leak. The bottom hose is rubber, I cant get one in silicon. When the vehicle is warm or hot the rubber seals fine. When it’s cold it drips. When it’s cold you can tighten the hose clamp a bit more and it seals. Drive repeat, drive repeat. You can see the deformed hose here where it’s been constantly tightened. the Hose itself needs about an inch chopped off at each end to fit. Hose clamp wise. I have used genuine Jubilee and Mikalor heavy duty clamps with no luck.Even doubled up on the bottom radiator hose. Some internet searching has brought me onto a clamp called a Constant Tension clamp. Basically it has the ability to keep consistent tension when the item it’s clamping cools. There are several designs and manufacturers. There are the sprung type which are normal on most modern cars and the screw type. Mikalor ones cost over £10 each. I found a very similar product here. https://www.pneumaticsdirect.co.uk/categories/section-13-clamps-clips/c-cure-clips-and-clamps/constant-tension-clamps-c-cure/304-stainless-steel-158mm-band-width Very well made free next day delivery. Here you can see the differences. Lets see if it works.... . CT clamp > Mikalor > Jubilee

Oh another job, headlight wiring upgrade to reduce the current and subsequent breakdown of the lighting switch. I ordered a loom from here. https://shop.landreiziger.nl/ I could of made one up. However by the time I’d bought all the parts from Polevolt it made more sense just to buy the kit. The kit arrived very quickly and is very well made. I did add a few more bits of conduit to it but prob unnecessary. Mounted the relays behind the PAS reservoir. The rest is just plug and play. To separate the sidelights from the headlights I jumped the really. But then ordered the correct ROW unit. Yes OCD as it’s just a wire in a box. Prior to upgrade the Headlamp voltages were 12.67v at the plug after 14.4v at plug. Powered straight from the alternator and relieving the switch. Job done.

Thanks

It’s talking to tuner studio but I need to read more and check I’ve edited the settings to show it a different sensor. However the change in exhaust makes the car hunt slightly and I need to work out how tunerstudio displays the sensors readings. I need to put the LC2 back with a working sensor and check the fuelling for the new exhaust setup. Any tips and tricks for ensuring the correct settings for TS. ???

O2 sensor... I think I’ve gone through two in 2.5k. That can’t be right. Here was my first guess at what is wrong. the replacement has been in since Feb and has died already.. Current thought then. Use the wideband only when tuning and run with a narrowband fitted permanently. Nigel sent me a 4 wire narrowband sensor and I ordered yet another Bosch wideband sensor. When I wired the car I put the wideband wiring on a 4 way econoseal plug. All I needed to do was make an extension wire for the narrowband sensor, unplug the wideband and plug in the narrowband. The LC2 only has three wires. So I added an earth into the unused terminal of the loom and bolted it to the earth point of the seat box. Yellow circle LC2 wideband controller Red circle straight to 4 wire Lambda sensor

Time to sort out all those bits that have cropped up. 1. Wide band has packed up again..........😖 2. The top and bottom hoses won’t seal up when engine is cold. 3. Fit the narrowband like I said over a year ago. 4. Remove centre silence box for more V8 noise. Er performance economy..😆 Lets start with point 4 then.. ‘The car has a TD5 system fitted from the Y piece back. It makes sense then that the centre box removal pipe for the TD5 90 should fit. I got a stainless one and it appears well made. It’s a Britpart unit. They only issue was the hangers were a bit odd and needed some heat and positioning straight. Easy to install and lined up perfectly..... so what does it sound like. Vid 1 centre box fitted Vid 2 removal pipe in Vid 3 bit of revving Done...

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SMHW/smhw.html This is the link from my build Post. The plugs took less than a week to arrive. I struggled to find anyone in the UK with the bigger variants.

For your insomnia... enjoy....

So a friend of mine was offered an old Landy. It’s been sat in the back of a garden in pieces for some years. Due to a turn of events I now have another project in the shape of a 1981 series 3 2.25 petrol. This isn’t quiet the Series 2 or Range Rover Classic that was planned. Why oh why can’t I say No......... Here is the planned end result. Hmm 7 years from now.

Many thanks appreciate the compliments

So this is why I think the O2 sensor is not lasting long. Its inserted too far............. I took off the Y piece and welded in the innovate bung supplied with the LC2 Kit. As you can see now out of the way. let's see.

One thing that I have to rethink though is the o2 Sensor. 2000 miles and its dead. I've just discovered its f++ck@d after the AFR readings were mental when driving, either constantly in the red or not registering. I took it out and calibrated it, the LED of death on the Innovate controller displays 8 red flashes (Sensor Timing error (typically a damaged sensor) I have recently had a bit of a tidy up and found the original packaging the Innovate came in. In the box was a wide band bung. During the exhaust fitting I welded in a bung I had in the workshop. Guess what its about half the length of the supplied unit. The Bung I have welded in means the sensor is well in the firing line of gas as its screws in too far. It should sit thus So job next weekend. Take off the Y piece buy a new sensor, weld 1" bung in and hope it lasts longer.. Oh and buy some more gas for the welder...... I'm hoping this works as the Bosch sensors are not cheap. I've played with my timing settings and now the tuning is out. I've retarded the timing and now it revs without that initial hole but fueling is out............ More to do...

Okay so it all seems like I got everything right. Well I didn't ............. The vehicle for any sort of use is terrible. I'd totally missed one major and obvious requirement. CUP HOLDERS The NAS console is a copy the US version. Below is a genuine version and it has two cup holders in the Passenger footwell. The Ashcroft Console has two cup holders apparently. Ahhhhh here they are. Unfortunately I'd left the rear bulkhead in so you can't use them. Plus I'd be reaching behind myself for coffee... I will admit I toyed with loads of options and even decided to live with it and just buy a sealed cup. However a can of Coke on a hot day sealed the fate that I really needed some. I looked at all the options and ended up going the Genuine Parts route.. Expensive and rare but Discovery 2 cup holders were required in Black. Its taken nearly 6 months of searching (at the right price) to find a new set. Spent days toying with where to put them everywhere is a compromise and in some places they stop the diff lock from engaging or jam your forearm when using the handbrake. So they ended up next to the shifter. I'm not allowed to get fatter or my leg won't fit but I'm happy, very happy with the results and they look like they should be....

MPG.......... I drove a Trailer to Dorset this summer and it rained all week............ However it delivered 15mpg. Which even though the tuning is still work in progress was a result . Its performed a lot of towing duties and its does it easily. Not as easily as the 110 TD5 with a Map. It just needs a few more revs....

1000 mile mark saw and oil change. Engine oil and filters were easy enough. The Diffs had been completely stripped blasted, Zinc'd welded new internals etc etc..... I'd fitted Nigel's Super magnetic plugs and they were doing their job well..... I will change the EP90 again this month and keep an eye on the muck....

The Speaker system ended up with a Stereo Upgrade. The standard Land Rover stereo although functional didn't do a lot......... I toyed with mechanical screens and such like and ended up fitting an Alpine Car Play unit ilx-f903d Its excellent. It has everything imaginable and I can even mirror Memory Map from my phone to the screen when off roading. (When I get brave enough to face Mud) Buttons remain accessible and the unit doesn't stick out that much. Compared to motorised screens there is no movement in the screen or dash so no wobble when driving....

Occasionally the Summer of 2019 threw up enough weather to go fishing and get the hood off....

2000 Miles and a bit have passed and so far so good. The vehicle has been great fun and turns heads. I thought I'd better pick up where I left off... Almost a year ago... Mechanically the car has been excellent. The Vehicle did however develop a clunk every time you came to a stop or pulled away. Its a typical A frame ball joint noise. However after looking everywhere and wiggling everything. I found out one of the chassis to radius arm bushes had failed badly. (Not sure if they were Blue Part). A couple of hours had them all replaced and the clonk had gone. Now I had mentioned on here how poor the stereo was. Driving with a Soft top meant It couldn't be heard. I fitted a set of JBL GTO 529's in each corner. The fronts needed a speaker spacer otherwise you end up hacking most of the lower dash away to fit them. Sound wise they are excellent and reasonable value for money if you can get an online discount. Behind the Passenger seat I found space to fit a matching Slimline JBL BassPro SL unit and the system now sounds excellent. A bit over the top for some but great sound even with the roof off. Its fixed in place and pinned to the bulkhead by the passenger seat.

Just an update on gearing and Speedo. The speedo was indicating 50mph when the gps was showing a true reading of 46. This is, I believe within the 10% margin of error. But we can do better than that.. I got a Healtech Speedo healer. The version I found has a loom supplied. It’s simple to fit. All you do is fit the new loom between the transducer mounted on the transfer box and the transducer plug. It’s plug and play. To set it up you need to know what the true speed is and what the displayed speed is. You download the App and enter your findings Hit the generate button and follow the instructions to programme. Results are spot on. if you change tyre size or transfer box or like I did Pinion and Crown Wheel then this is simples.