keeley75

I’ve mentioned it here before. I wasn’t sure if you needed the Td5 ECU connected to communicate with the 10AS module. I can now confirm if you plug your Nanocom into the original OBD port, which for me is in the depths of the auto console. You can communicate with the 10AS alarm unit without it present.. I’ve just managed to get it to auto lock if you don’t open the door..

More snagging jobs. Fresh air ducting to the air box. I wanted the system to utilise the same water drainage system as the Td5. Although I have a snorkel stashed away. The likelihood of requiring this has minimised dramatically. It’s just too much tubing on the front of the A pillar. I had already turned the Td5 air box input round as it clashes with the RH exhaust manifold. I chopped this up and got it to sit here Attached a length of pipe and up and on to the air box. All looking original and no where near the manifold. It’s tight to the steering UJ although there is a gap.

The spacers fitted...

Thanks

Aaah. fresh eyes. Yes I reckon that will do it.

Hmm. No you are right there is not much length to these. These are MWC1474 I need some longer ones. Or I may need to shave the door edge a few mm to get it to grip.

Door trims are doing this. Any ideas apart from ‘No nails’ and ‘go buy genuine’ Its not scratches, it’s the Duck Tape

Mud light white Mud light red

Fitted some rear Mud speaker pods today. I used the aux power plug and stuck a 12v marine plug in the rear. It’s all ready for some speakers. The Exmoor trim hood requires a couple of brackets fitting to the rear capping. The tension strap normally hooks under the capping Nice and neat Next bit of Mud kit is one of their lights. I made a bracket that sandwiches between the screen and the rear view mirror bracket. Very pleased with this. wired it into the standard Td5 loom it works perfectly with the door switches and alarm.

Thanks for your support. I will send this thread to his brother when I’m done... I bought some of these. They are length 20mm x dia 18mm with 8mm hole. I took out the drivers seat to fit a new heated seat element and thought there must be a better spacer available. I had used an M12 nut temporarily to take up the distance between the seat mounting and the Wright off road mat. These took 48hrs and are made to order. Princely sum of £13 inc delivery.

Thanks, many thanks Just waiting for a bumper and the DVLA to make a decision and it’s MOT time .. oh and fit the interior light. Set the tracking. Sort out the intake to the air box and fiddle with the Megasquirt settings.... I fitted some door trims. These are copies of Puma trims. I got them from SP Land Rover parts and are very good quality. They are plastic though and don’t have that normal LR feel. The clips are a different design and they don’t have a rubber strip that runs along the top of the window. The clips break easily and are generally a good fit. The passenger side is bulging away from the door lock and pulling the clips out of the door. I’ve taped it tight and left the heater on to see if it will settle down after a while. The holes are all in right place and I purchased a 3 mm trim and tuck it to the window edge

I managed to sit down and read this thread. My apols for the grammar and spelling. I’ve tapped this out in my phone and not paid much attention to autocorrect........ So I managed an hour on the truck today. As I mentioned the central locking was playing up. When you lock the vehicle via the fob the doors would immediately unlock after the three flashes. The alarm would then sound. This has been diagnosed as door lock actuators. I fitted a new pair. Shown below is the part numbers and the actuator. Left is passenger, right is drivers. Pleased to say the locking is now perfect. The new actuators are really quiet and don’t grind like the originals.

I also have this pipe which I can measure up if it helps

Does this help I know you are using the Bog Brush.

They are supposed to isolate the transmission of vibration and noise between suspension and the chassis. They prob do nothing on this vehicle and I can’t do a side by side comparison. Or a before and after...

I did some measuring of a last of the line Defender Adventure model. It has a full roof rack and some aluminium skid plates along the chassis rails to collect mud and salt measured from the centre cap to the edge of the eyebrow. Front 19 inches Rear 20 inches This truck is 21.5 and 22 inches respectively. So I have 2 inch gain all round..

Going to measure the 68 plate Defender at work tomorrow and see how much higher this sits. To be honest once the winch is dropped on the front I reckon it’s not too bad at all. Front a little high. Rear wheel level with the spring mount. What doesn’t help. The front has D2 front coil spring isolators and the rear has the disco 1 version as well... I reckon the weight of the Winch bumper and Husky will settle nicely. Front Rear Fitting the Sills has helped make it not look too jacked up.... Still lots to do

I’ve been mucking around for ages trying to sort out the radiator top mounts. I got some of these and discovered they were too high. The V8 rad by allisport is not as high as the TD5. I also wanted to use the bonnet prop just like the Defender TD5. I ended up combining the two. The LH 4cyl rad mount requires the bonnet scissor prop bracket cutting off. The TD5 bonnet prop plates also require the angled brackets cutting off. These are the ones that hold either the intercooler or AC rad.. Works fine and looks as original as I can get it.

Hi It’s Oxford Blue Micatallic LRC 602 The problem with the paint it’s taken the limelight away from the mechanical work.

Had a good day today... Fought with the door alignment. The passenger door could do with a little bit more lifting at the back but I’m all out of movement. I’m talking mm here but I’ll see what I can do. I may try and slacken off the tub mounting and see if I can get a bit of drop from it. The doors are tight though and the rubbers need to settle down. Front end went on well. I’m having issues with the 10AS alarm. I think one of the door lock actuators needs replacing. When you lock the doors and the alarm sets. It immediately unlocks and the alarm goes off. Looking at the forums this symptom appears to be a weak actuator. I can’t fit the door trims until I have a fiddle. It was locking and unlocking all afternoon without issue..

Spent the evening building up both doors. Realy Boring and tedious..... Then fitted these excellent gaskets from YRM to the bonnet hinges. Fitted the rest of the parts to the bonnet ready for tomorrow.

Skid factory......awesome Mighty car Mods awesome.. I am amazed at what people are building in their sheds. This project is a nut and bolt job. The stuff people are doing with access to CNC and Tigs is amazing.........

Just to revisit this. I bow to your knowledge. It indeed stops the headlights from functioning when ignition is off. Just thought. This has been the single best bit of equipment for tracing and testing during this build. PowerProbe III It registers earth and power audibly and visually. You can also send 12v down the tip to activate relays bulbs etc. It’s been so much easier to use than a multimeter. Invaluable... my second most useful tool When your working on your own and reaching all over the place trying to hold a spanner and turn a bolt with only 1 degree of movement.... iI thought it to be gimmicky but honestly wouldn’t be without one now..

I’ve upgraded the bottom seal to the latest version. Prior to paint I drilled the holes out ready for these

So today I trial fitted the doors. It looks like the Cage and wings have supported the bulkhead sufficiently. I have also been very lucky the doors fit a treat and the gaps are very good. The top of the windscreen passenger side is clear but a little close. I need to see if the gutter rail will hold it with a bit more adjustment. Regarding stainless steel door screws. Left is a YRM stainless screw perfect match for the later genuine Td5 screws Middle is a DLS screw notice the turned down edge Right is a Britpart supplied version The YRM ones are the best and the easiest to torque up without damaging the heads. Also the screws dig into the paint. I ran waxoil in here to try and slow down the rust bleed that occurs.