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keeley75 last won the day on February 23 2019

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About keeley75

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  1. I’ve currently got dual finish SVX wheels on the 90. I’ve had some Tornado’s commonly known at Freestyle’s stuck at the side of the house. The SVX wheels are very nice but a bit modern. The Diamond cut finish easily damages and water travels in between the lacquer and machined alloy. Thankfully mine are still mint but.... I modelled this on the NAS 90 and 50th which both use the Tornado’s which in my opinion look period correct for this truck plus they were used on early Td5’s. My local wheel refurb business have been a bit quiet recently so they did me a set or two for the 90. First up. 50th Anniversary dual finish. Acid dipped, blasted, powder coated and then lacquered. Stunning... Second set, silver.. Again perfect.. Anorak warning only read if you want to know boring stuff about LR wheels There are 2 part numbers for the Tornado/Freestyle wheel. ANR 5307 and ANR 1689 neither wheel can’t be used on the 110 due to load. However D1 and 90 are fine. ANR 5307 is the early version. The face is exactly the same but the mounting face is subtly different. ANR 1689 doesn’t have the wheel nut hole machines flat. The NAS90 and 50th also had 265 75r16 BFG AT fitted. I just need to work out which set to fit tyres on.....
  2. Got a bit more done on the air box today. Viper performance sell silicon hose with M10 x1.25 thread for IAT’s used in conjunction with a 70-76mm flange I got the 76mm silicon spiral wound hose fitted. Just got to finish connecting it to the inlet in the wing when the bits arrive.. This is what it was like before. However it now has 76mm/3inch throughout and a free flowing air box. It used to have a 50mm reduction at the wing to get through the water trap. Plus the Hyclone thingy in the Td5 air box. Worth the effort I reckon.
  3. I think I needed thicker filler rod. That’s the current excuse.......
  4. I should have expanded. Thats what they said. I was surprised that the whole radiator is getting shipped out to the core manufacturer to sort out. I suppose they have their warranty procedures.......
  5. Thanks Fridge, I’ve taken the plunge and got one of these Lucas SNB801 used in everything from a metro to a 5.3 V12 Jaguar. Being Lucas it will be the pinnacle of Automotive electrical Wizardry!!!! But it’s M10 x 1.25. I’ll update with the results.
  6. Mounted the Air Filter today. Had some of these knocking about. Used some rivnuts and carefully drilled into the bulkhead. The fuses and relays are just the other side of this... Bent up a sheet of 4 mm Aluminium and Tig welded some braces to the bottom of it. No pictures of the welding as I’m too embarrassed as it looks more like solder.... more Tig practice required.. Some rivnuts and flanged head socket screws. The flange heads screws have a nut tightened underneath the rivnut to keep them at a fixed height. Slotted and drilled the filter mounting. Stuck some 1mm foam on the base of the filter housing. It’s pushed under the locating screws and locked into place at the front by 2 socket screws.. I need to remove it to change air filters as the metal locking clips are impossible to manipulate between the housing and body. Just some pipe work to figure. The header tank might need relocating for a bit more space. As I don’t have a clutch pedal this will be easy.
  7. Hi all, Does anyone know of an M10 x 1.25 IAT sensor compatible with MS2. I’ve got one supplied by Nigel which is M 14 I think. I’m after one that won’t require me to calibrate the new one with buckets of ice and such like. I’d also like it to have the same connector...... Thanks in advance...
  8. I've had a constant water leak from this vehicle. Especially the bottom water hose. Rubber hoses just won't seal when cold on the aluminium outlets. I eventually found a Silicon Bottom Hose. Its D2 4.0 V8. The front end is from a 1999 3.9 V8. Imported from Czechoslovakia and the quality its actually pretty good.. . It seals perfectly and doesn't require hose clamps tightened to their limit. However. Success is short lived. I now have coolant dripping from the passenger side. which is the lowest point on the radiator. The Hand built, Tig Welded, twin oil cooler f*****g expensive radiator from Allisport was leaking............. I ended up taking it out and noticed an area near the drivers side end tank that looked suspicious. I drove it up to Allisport yesterday. The company is Nr Eastnor Castle and well worth popping in for a chat. They quickly took the rad from me and set it up for testing. Now Be careful here chit chat and general helpfulness from these chaps is dangerous. I wanted to look at the TD5 airbox they produce and discuss some adaptions. What I ended up walking out the shop with is one of these. It uses the air filter from the 300 Tdi ESR2623. They make even bigger versions and use the 200tdi Filter and the V8 filter accordingly. The inlets and outlets are bigger as well. The version I got has 75mm inlet/outlets which is bigger than the 70mm plenum on the engine. So I figured airflow should be fine. As it happens I've used the water trap from the TD5 setup near the wing and that reduces to 50mm which could do with being revisited. Quick mock up. The higher it sits the easier pipework and access to change air filter will be. Also the bigger versions would fit but it'd be a hell of a job dealing with the associated bigger pipework and find room to actually fit it. So the Plan is to run 3" pipe throughout with the only reduction at the Plenum where it drops 5mm. ( yes a mix of imperial and metric but thats how I work) Its a whole lot neater and and nice upgrade for unrestricted airflow. I have a plan on how to deal with the water trap without reducing flow and I have one thing to consider. Do I refit my IAT at the Airbox or by the Plenum. I can combat heat soak by mounting it in a silicon 75-70mm IAT silicon hose by Viper Performance Which means if fitted by the Plenum it makes everything simples and cheaper to fit. Firstly though I need to fab a bracket.. Oh I got one of these as well..... Because its erm shiny..... Oh the radiator failed its test and was blowing out of one of the fins as it enders the side tank. Now Allisport won't actually be fixing this they are going to send it back to the manufacturer to sort out...... Thats odd. I thought they made everything. Once the radiator is back, which will be a while speaking to the boys. I'll continue my journey down the hole of genuine parts gearbox cooler pipes... For now though I've got something to busy myself with.
  9. I think... may be worth an email for the male and female Pins https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1961867-new?product=61-13-8-352-926
  10. I’m a bit confused as to what you are trying to do. But I can tell you to search for BMW radio plugs. That’s the plug used on the td5 genuine loom. It’s pushes then locks in place by sliding the cage down. The radios were made by VDO...
  11. Difflock.com Currently the cheapest online + free delivery for BFG in all sizes and patterns. Just got to find a friendly(cheap) fitter........ Not linked to them but they are the cheapest I've found for BF Goodrich All Terrian KO 265/75R16 and Muds.....
  12. Due to getting well and truly lost down a rabbit hole. I’m sorting out some bits. I won’t bore you all but I’m fiddling with one of the gearbox cooler pipes and a bloody drip from the bottom radiator hose. As the coolant is out. I treated it to one of these. Sight glass and level sensor. Some nice Tig work here.. . I opted for the unit with a level sensor. the sensor is simply one of these As I don’t have a TD5 engine but TD5 everything else then I decided to wire it into the Diesel water trap warning light. Thinking this would be simply a case of finding the orange and green wire In the loom.....several hours later I discovered that the wire is buried behind the dash and not in the loom that exits the bulkhead. It sits in its own econoseal plug I assumed that the bulkhead multiplug would route it to the tank loom. (mine is a Td4). After much head scratching and testing I discovered that there is zero wiring in the dash 16way plug for the Warning light. Thanks to Retroanaconda again. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/ I got the correct terminals from RS components fitted one end to terminal 4 of the 16way dash plug and earthed the other end. So I can remove the header tank . I split the wire and put a 2 terminal econoseal plug in the engine bay. So if I lose some coolant it now does this. .
  13. Right so the process is called Tube Forming. There are a few companies in the UK that do it. You can get pipes made up in Stainless Steel. Land Rover pipework is expensive and not always available. I'm thinking of having short Stainless steel pipes made up with unions to convert it straight to easily available AN fittings as used in kit car and race car stuff.
  14. From Allisport the threads are M20x1.5mm What I'd like to know is what the fitting is called...
  15. Does anyone know what specification and size the pipe fittings are that go into the engine oil cooler fitted in the side of the Disco 1 V8 radiator. These are also the same fitting as used on the bog brush style gearbox oil cooler. Im looking for new ends that will either adapt to AN fitting or fit to dedicated oil pipe. Thanks in advance
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