keeley75

I was sent these by the chap that had the donor 90 off me. He’s got the V8 fitted and running. Another one saved….. DEC26B97-9449-4166-A6E7-A930ADFB5FA0.MP4

Excuse me. £125 each!!!

When I put the vehicle back together I’d omitted to pay any attention to the wipers and wheel boxes. They got a bit of fresh grease and screwed back together. The wipers were sweeping all over the place and parked in various positions. They moved in the wind and reacted to bumpy roads........ The wheel boxes suffer in 2 ways. The gear wears out on the drive cable increasing the play. Also the spindle slowly corrodes itself to the housing. This ageing produces a nice brown grinding paste that speeds up the wear and tear. I ordered a pair of these. From www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk and a washer jet... All the items are CNC machined and then anodised. The wheel boxes have a composite bearing and a sintered bronze bearing with a perforated surface.. so they are self lubricating. They are magnificent. A true work of art. I paired these with a new drive cable. Fitting them was simple but an absolute pain. The later style dash needs to be basically disassembled. Results... the yellow paper shows the extent of free play prior to fitment 120mm. The small line shows the free play after 15mm. The washer jet also by Design and Performance again is a direct replacement. Stunning build quality. The jets appear to be only adjustable in one plane ie fore and aft. Or high or low on the screen. The spray angle appears set and is spot on. Total overkill.......... but much better than it was before. The plastic unit required the jets adjusting periodically.

I’m not a fan of chequer plate. However the wing tops always feel a bit weak and appear a bit vulnerable. Best of the bunch in my opinion and as close to OEM is Mammouth. The kit comes with all fittings and you can order the foam backing to stop water collecting between the wing and the plate. The camera lies. You can’t see the foam when looking at the vehicle. Excellent fit and quality fittings. You can’t really see it but the wing tops are bent in two planes to ensure perfect fitment. I’m slowly accepting it’s existence.

Good idea the sound deadening... The pattern door card fittings are different from the LR ones. The fir free fittings for the pattern door cards are very easily broken. Plus they can snap the door card mounting. I got some of these and it helped when adapting the door card to fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Land-Rover-Discovery-Plastic-Clips-for-Rear-Door-Trim-Panel-Door-Card-Stud-/371405332791?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Water shedders £10 from here https://www.lrparts.net/ejd500620-right-hand-front-inner-door-shedder-for-land-rover-defender-fits-from-2002-onwards.html The window channel when screwed into the frame goes through the plastic channel and clamps it all together. Clamp is a loose term to stop it all falling apart..

Allisport sent out a replacement rad for my leaking one. So far so good. The only difference between old and new. They have moved to the fan switch to the near side. Which meant a bit of wiring. The old one shows damage where I’ve been constantly tightening the jubilee clips to get them to seal. This time I gave it the lightest of tightens and so far so good. fan switch part number for anyone interested

The pattern door panels although looking okay have never been a great fit. They are a hard plastic and you notice it. As you are basically part of the door when driving. The panels also drum a little with noise. They also sit low and rub against the Wright matting. I bit the bullet and ordered genuine door cards. Just for information. The door fittings Are called SNAPSAC’s . There are various qualities around. The white ones are easy to fit and come in a blue packet with Br*tp@rt packaging. Steer clear. They do not grab the male insert adequately. The ones you want are the beige coloured versions same as factory. They are harder to fit but are a harder plastic gripping and locating the male insert better. New water shedders fitted at the same time The fit and finish is spot one. As usual Genuine parts win again. vs The genuine cards do not drum and rattle like the pattern version. They are also soft to the touch. When you shut the door it “Sounds like a Golf” kinda....

Somethings gone wrong here..... Maybe a grown up can fix it but for now.

Finally I've sorted out the final piece of the puzzle. NAS rear step. There are lots and lots of NAS steps out there. Some with checker plate some with universal fitting kits and questionable quality. I managed to source a OEM NAS step with the correct 90 fitting kit. Quality is superb with the correct rubber step that collect water, traps it and rusts out the step.......... The bracing is inch bar and the fitting kit is very good quality. I used to have one of these. Dixon Bate Adjustable hitches so it was just a matter of undoing a few bolts. The NAS step went on with a little persuasion from a ratchet strap. The three threaded holes under the chassis were a bit tight to get in. However I am very pleased with the end look/result. In relation to this post.. There is no way that the M16 thread in the Richards chassis would get to the specified 240nm of torque. But its tight enough judging by the flexing of the breaker bar and my muscles. The Brink Tow ball drops the ball enough without excessive metalwork to get the height in the ball park. https://brink.eu/en-gb/towbars/towbar-types/flange-ball-towbar/ Oh and the Alisport Rad has sprung a leak again........... same issue as before. the rad leaks where the cooling capillary enters the side tank. Apparently this can be quite common as the aluminum expands and contracts quickly causing any weakness to fail. Andrew has been brilliant and is sending out yet another replacement. .................

When I was last up at Allisport. They were Tig welding AN fittings onto a V8 front cover and coolers for a customer. It was according to them cheaper and easier for fittings and some of the Landy pipework is No Longer Available.........If you find a work around let us know...

https://digidash.co.uk Vaughan turns them around very quickly. You won’t get a true zero but he can get it to 10-20miles from zero.. In respect of capacity increase... the 4.0 on Megasquirt is a very driveable unit even on an auto. If I’m sensible. It’s all you need with brakes and steering designed in the 1970’s, stolen from the Range Rover and grafted to a 90. Hmmmmmm V8 Developments do a 5.5L Rover V8. Now that would be a upgrade for economy.......

I'd be tempted to get the block sleeved. ie top hat from Turners or Automotive. Sling a 4.6 crank in it. Fit 4.6 little ends in the pistons. Maybe get the heads cleaned up a bit. For fuel efficiency of course. The engine will last you and you'll know its good...............

Sent. However there will be differences depending on what injectors, PWM setup, Lambda or Wide band... etc etc. However as you've already had it running your big hurdle is conquered.... Its just a matter of Tuning. Once you've finished getting your hands oily......

Have sent you a message using the facility on this forum. Files waiting for your reply.

Yes of course. you can have my fuel table and ignition table. Also don't forget to check the lifters when the Cam is fitted you might need some pedestal shims.

Doing a grand job here. At least once its screwed back together you'll know its good for a few years.........

You’re actually at a really good stage.. It runs, you have scratch built a wiring loom and made an oddity of components work together. Tapping noise aside. Im sure it’s been said already. Check the timing using Tunerstudio and a timing light. Once you know that’s bang on and correctly calibrated in the ECU move on. Don't do what I did and try and tune it all at once. Also ensure when the engine is running and trying to tune it. Make sure everything is switched off in Tunerstudio. For instance I was trying to tune the fuel and things like MAT or WUE compensations were also trying to do their bit. It’s taken me almost a year to fully get a feel for Tunerstudio and what stuff does. There are so many settings that can be tweaked you can easily lose yourself. Just get it timed right. Stable idle and keep things simple it will all slowly come together. If it helps. Our build are very similar except I have a H180 camshaft fitted. I can send you screen shots from tuner studio to get you close’ish. If it really needs a top end refresh that won’t take long maybe an afternoon. enjoy....

Page 3 of this build shows my initial investigations into Defender V8 automatic gearbox oil cooler pipes. I had a pipe made up by Pirtek. It worked but it was in the way of the winch bumper mounting bolts. Whilst the rad was off for repair it got a revisit. So as far as I can work out from the parts manuals and the collection of pipes I have You have 2 options. Depending on the use of the radiator cooler and remote cooler. 50th Anniversary. Cooler as manufactured by Allisport. Auto box to remote oil cooler ESR4219 OS Auto box to remote oil cooler ESR4218 NS ##### Does not go into 2nd oil cooler in radiator or have box oil temp wanting light sender ##### like this The NAS Auto Gbox cooler set up has the remote cooler mounted up higher than the 50th. The cooler pipes run in between the chassis cross member and the radiator. Theoretically you could buy the pipes here then mount the cooler higher up. So if like me you use the 50th remote cooler and try and plumb it in using the factory mountings you are going to be short of 1 pipe rad to cooler. So to plumb in an Allisport V8 radiator with dual oil coolers and a 50th remote cooler you need. ESR 4219. Box to remote cooler. UBP 101030 Box to rad cooler it has the temp warning switch in it Then you’re left with a pipe that LR don’t make. scouring the parts manuals I found ESR 1242. It looked promising. But alas no chance...... So ESR 1242 got adapted. AN -8 hardline fittings used Routing is much better and nearly factory. Another AN fitting and flexible pipe. Much better. If I was doing this again. I would get all the rads made with welded on AN fittings and things would be really simple as the Fittings used by LR are impossible to buy as they are rolled onto pipe. Hope some of the part numbers help....

I’m biased but Old Man Emu. Here’s a chart that might help if you go to another manufacturer. The issue is the v8 is much lighter than say the tdi engine. Lots of resellers will just do a 2 inch lift which on the v8 might be a bit high. OME sell V8 specific so it will be right. You get what you pay for and they don’t break like other manufacturers. There are quite a few sets of Genuine delivery mileage springs on eBay that may suit. There is a colour chart somewhere on this forum. Enjoy

Fresh air intake finished off today. I used the standard wing vent and grafted the water drain Valve from the td5 air box. It’s connected to some pipe. A 75mm flange was mounted in the back and connected to the hose. I originally bought some spiral bound silicon hose. But I was very difficult to route. Some heat resistant pvc pipe was much much cheaper and easy to route. You’d never know !!!

Yep. Good call. Some will love the SVX wheels more, but for me these are just right. The difference between 235 85r16 (os) and 265 75r16 (ns)

Its far too pampered to get it muddy...

I do wonder if I will actually notice the difference between it and the Td5 setup. I’ve been following yours closely as it’s very similar build. Thanks For the compliment...

Many thanks. Appreciate the feedback. One day I hope to have a workshop. My knees can’t take much more concrete.

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Prop-length-Guide.pdf May be worth a read over a coffee. Once you've measured as advised. Drop them a line. Make sure your sitting down for the costs, But with a 4 inch lift your gonna need a bit more flexibility in the props. Actually Gywn Lewis stuff is very good value for money. They will just be a bit more than expected especially if your been looking at a Britpart rear 90 shaft........