keeley75

Lucas IAT arrived today. I went through the instructions for Tunerstudio and got myself a bag of ice, kettle and a meat probe ( thermometer). I took some readings from the Lucas IAT with the intention of sticking the Resistance vs Temp values into the calibration table. Before doing this though I ran the same tests with the current Unit supplied in Nigel’s Xcess 4x4 kits. BLACK LINE LUCAS RED LINE Standard Megasquirt IAT. I was expecting a linear graph. `excuse the secondary school diagram. If I was to draw a ‘line of best fit‘ (asked the A level Son for its technical name) Should this be the readings I stick into Tunerstudio ??? If I draw a linear best fit line then I can leave the current settings as is because the current sensor is all over the place and would be pretty similar plot So I think it’s close enough.. It was 20 deg Celsius ambient today. Measured via the thermometer. Both the Lucas IAT And the Nige supplied IAT registered 20 deg Celsius in Tunerstudio. So I think it’s a pretty good match. Unless I’m simplifying things and Megasquirt is a bit more sensitive or precise than I’m assuming. Any thoughts welcome !!!!.

I’ve currently got dual finish SVX wheels on the 90. I’ve had some Tornado’s commonly known at Freestyle’s stuck at the side of the house. The SVX wheels are very nice but a bit modern. The Diamond cut finish easily damages and water travels in between the lacquer and machined alloy. Thankfully mine are still mint but.... I modelled this on the NAS 90 and 50th which both use the Tornado’s which in my opinion look period correct for this truck plus they were used on early Td5’s. My local wheel refurb business have been a bit quiet recently so they did me a set or two for the 90. First up. 50th Anniversary dual finish. Acid dipped, blasted, powder coated and then lacquered. Stunning... Second set, silver.. Again perfect.. Anorak warning only read if you want to know boring stuff about LR wheels There are 2 part numbers for the Tornado/Freestyle wheel. ANR 5307 and ANR 1689 neither wheel can’t be used on the 110 due to load. However D1 and 90 are fine. ANR 5307 is the early version. The face is exactly the same but the mounting face is subtly different. ANR 1689 doesn’t have the wheel nut hole machines flat. The NAS90 and 50th also had 265 75r16 BFG AT fitted. I just need to work out which set to fit tyres on.....

Got a bit more done on the air box today. Viper performance sell silicon hose with M10 x1.25 thread for IAT’s used in conjunction with a 70-76mm flange I got the 76mm silicon spiral wound hose fitted. Just got to finish connecting it to the inlet in the wing when the bits arrive.. This is what it was like before. However it now has 76mm/3inch throughout and a free flowing air box. It used to have a 50mm reduction at the wing to get through the water trap. Plus the Hyclone thingy in the Td5 air box. Worth the effort I reckon.

I think I needed thicker filler rod. That’s the current excuse.......

I should have expanded. Thats what they said. I was surprised that the whole radiator is getting shipped out to the core manufacturer to sort out. I suppose they have their warranty procedures.......

Thanks Fridge, I’ve taken the plunge and got one of these Lucas SNB801 used in everything from a metro to a 5.3 V12 Jaguar. Being Lucas it will be the pinnacle of Automotive electrical Wizardry!!!! But it’s M10 x 1.25. I’ll update with the results.

Mounted the Air Filter today. Had some of these knocking about. Used some rivnuts and carefully drilled into the bulkhead. The fuses and relays are just the other side of this... Bent up a sheet of 4 mm Aluminium and Tig welded some braces to the bottom of it. No pictures of the welding as I’m too embarrassed as it looks more like solder.... more Tig practice required.. Some rivnuts and flanged head socket screws. The flange heads screws have a nut tightened underneath the rivnut to keep them at a fixed height. Slotted and drilled the filter mounting. Stuck some 1mm foam on the base of the filter housing. It’s pushed under the locating screws and locked into place at the front by 2 socket screws.. I need to remove it to change air filters as the metal locking clips are impossible to manipulate between the housing and body. Just some pipe work to figure. The header tank might need relocating for a bit more space. As I don’t have a clutch pedal this will be easy.

Hi all, Does anyone know of an M10 x 1.25 IAT sensor compatible with MS2. I’ve got one supplied by Nigel which is M 14 I think. I’m after one that won’t require me to calibrate the new one with buckets of ice and such like. I’d also like it to have the same connector...... Thanks in advance...

I've had a constant water leak from this vehicle. Especially the bottom water hose. Rubber hoses just won't seal when cold on the aluminium outlets. I eventually found a Silicon Bottom Hose. Its D2 4.0 V8. The front end is from a 1999 3.9 V8. Imported from Czechoslovakia and the quality its actually pretty good.. . It seals perfectly and doesn't require hose clamps tightened to their limit. However. Success is short lived. I now have coolant dripping from the passenger side. which is the lowest point on the radiator. The Hand built, Tig Welded, twin oil cooler f*****g expensive radiator from Allisport was leaking............. I ended up taking it out and noticed an area near the drivers side end tank that looked suspicious. I drove it up to Allisport yesterday. The company is Nr Eastnor Castle and well worth popping in for a chat. They quickly took the rad from me and set it up for testing. Now Be careful here chit chat and general helpfulness from these chaps is dangerous. I wanted to look at the TD5 airbox they produce and discuss some adaptions. What I ended up walking out the shop with is one of these. It uses the air filter from the 300 Tdi ESR2623. They make even bigger versions and use the 200tdi Filter and the V8 filter accordingly. The inlets and outlets are bigger as well. The version I got has 75mm inlet/outlets which is bigger than the 70mm plenum on the engine. So I figured airflow should be fine. As it happens I've used the water trap from the TD5 setup near the wing and that reduces to 50mm which could do with being revisited. Quick mock up. The higher it sits the easier pipework and access to change air filter will be. Also the bigger versions would fit but it'd be a hell of a job dealing with the associated bigger pipework and find room to actually fit it. So the Plan is to run 3" pipe throughout with the only reduction at the Plenum where it drops 5mm. ( yes a mix of imperial and metric but thats how I work) Its a whole lot neater and and nice upgrade for unrestricted airflow. I have a plan on how to deal with the water trap without reducing flow and I have one thing to consider. Do I refit my IAT at the Airbox or by the Plenum. I can combat heat soak by mounting it in a silicon 75-70mm IAT silicon hose by Viper Performance Which means if fitted by the Plenum it makes everything simples and cheaper to fit. Firstly though I need to fab a bracket.. Oh I got one of these as well..... Because its erm shiny..... Oh the radiator failed its test and was blowing out of one of the fins as it enders the side tank. Now Allisport won't actually be fixing this they are going to send it back to the manufacturer to sort out...... Thats odd. I thought they made everything. Once the radiator is back, which will be a while speaking to the boys. I'll continue my journey down the hole of genuine parts gearbox cooler pipes... For now though I've got something to busy myself with.

I think... may be worth an email for the male and female Pins https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1961867-new?product=61-13-8-352-926

I’m a bit confused as to what you are trying to do. But I can tell you to search for BMW radio plugs. That’s the plug used on the td5 genuine loom. It’s pushes then locks in place by sliding the cage down. The radios were made by VDO...

Difflock.com Currently the cheapest online + free delivery for BFG in all sizes and patterns. Just got to find a friendly(cheap) fitter........ Not linked to them but they are the cheapest I've found for BF Goodrich All Terrian KO 265/75R16 and Muds.....

Due to getting well and truly lost down a rabbit hole. I’m sorting out some bits. I won’t bore you all but I’m fiddling with one of the gearbox cooler pipes and a bloody drip from the bottom radiator hose. As the coolant is out. I treated it to one of these. Sight glass and level sensor. Some nice Tig work here.. . I opted for the unit with a level sensor. the sensor is simply one of these As I don’t have a TD5 engine but TD5 everything else then I decided to wire it into the Diesel water trap warning light. Thinking this would be simply a case of finding the orange and green wire In the loom.....several hours later I discovered that the wire is buried behind the dash and not in the loom that exits the bulkhead. It sits in its own econoseal plug I assumed that the bulkhead multiplug would route it to the tank loom. (mine is a Td4). After much head scratching and testing I discovered that there is zero wiring in the dash 16way plug for the Warning light. Thanks to Retroanaconda again. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/ I got the correct terminals from RS components fitted one end to terminal 4 of the 16way dash plug and earthed the other end. So I can remove the header tank . I split the wire and put a 2 terminal econoseal plug in the engine bay. So if I lose some coolant it now does this. .

Right so the process is called Tube Forming. There are a few companies in the UK that do it. You can get pipes made up in Stainless Steel. Land Rover pipework is expensive and not always available. I'm thinking of having short Stainless steel pipes made up with unions to convert it straight to easily available AN fittings as used in kit car and race car stuff.

From Allisport the threads are M20x1.5mm What I'd like to know is what the fitting is called...

Does anyone know what specification and size the pipe fittings are that go into the engine oil cooler fitted in the side of the Disco 1 V8 radiator. These are also the same fitting as used on the bog brush style gearbox oil cooler. Im looking for new ends that will either adapt to AN fitting or fit to dedicated oil pipe. Thanks in advance

Bit more stuff. I've never really liked this bare panel. Thats the genuine colour land rover bother to put on when the actual car is Oxford Blue. Bought some HDPE 2mm sheet. Made some templates and bent it up in the sheet metal bender. I've enough leftover to make some extended mudguards just like Gwyn Lewis produce.

Hadn't even crossed my mind. I will run it for a few tanks and check my readings. Then do as you suggest!! Cheers

Next niggle to deal with was the fuel Gauge. The Fuel Pump and sender fitted in the TD5 tank is ESR3926 which is D1 V8 or 90 2.8 BMW. It worked fine with the standard TD5 fuel gauge. However suffered the usual optimistic reading all TD5's have A factory TD5 shows full for over 150 miles and then plummets. The combination of ESR3926 and the TD5 gauge did exactly the same with other issues.. Roughly Half a tank of fuel showed 3/4 on the gauge and the fuel light came on when there was between 5-8 litres in the tank even though the gauge suggests a bit more. Which in the V8 gives a reserve of imminent death... I wanted a more accurate reading from the fuel gauge. I had purchased matching VDO fuel gauges to go with the Rev and Temp gauges but the two VDO sell were worse than the genuine TD5 gauge. I dug them out of the spares box and decided to get them to work. VDO Gauge 1 which is VDO Pt No 301 010 002 has a Range of 3-180 ohm. Basically its just shows full all the time when plugged in to the car. This gauge is easily availible and works well with the matching VDO sender. The other option is VDO 301 105 which is 33-240 ohm. This is closer to the original gauge in terms of resistance. However with ESR 3926 fitted it will not show full when 60L of fuel is in the tank. VDO Uk don't stock it and it took 4 months for me to get it from them. However auction sites sell them for £30 with shipping from the US. I found this great write up here https://sites.google.com/site/shannonpowerlab2/home/calibrating-your-fuel-gauge Purchased one of these. from RS components. You can buy much cheaper versions but this is waterproof and has very good resolution in comparision. I stuck some tails on it. Then wired it between the Sender wire and earth behind the clocks. Twisted the potentiometer just enough to get a full reading. and taped it safely onto the gauge cluster connector block. Spent yesterday filling, draining and measuring fuel. 5-10L fuel shows below empty with the fuel light on. I say 5-10 as the fuel light is a bit hit and miss and sometimes you have to rock the car to get it to light up. 30L fuel shows just above half and 60L is now full. So I achieved a more linear gauge and another day of fiddling. Hope the above may help others. It will certainly help me when I forgot what i did a few years down the line.

Old Bit New Bit Absolutely brilliant. Hopefully no more getting snagged on the entry............

The Zeus kit is a well thought out bit of kit. However............ When I first fitted it to the input shaft. The Zeus seal outer O-ring is smaller that the internal diameter of the casing. It doesn't seal within the casing. Now it may be designed to seal against the bottom edge or face if you like but no amount of calls or emails to Zeus got an answer. Other than try it in other box which kinda defeated the object. When I originally fitted the lower seal pushing it in sheared the edge of the O-ring taking the sealing edge away. Which is why I quietly drew my breath and placed it all on the shelf for another day... Today the box has the Zeus lower/output seal successfully fitted. The only difference I can see in fitting this time. The box was bleeding ATF everywhere. Last time I smeared ATF. Maybe huge amounts of 'Lube' is the key for the lower seal. As I said we shall see how long it lasts. so far so good........... As an after thought. I still think the Zeus kit is a good way to go if you have a good box and it works for you. Its under £25 and might just save the day.. After you've wrestled the drop arm off. £25 is a lot better than a dodgy recon boxes..

Steering Box again. The box is superb and steers brilliantly with no play. It was out of the donor Disco and didn't have a difficult life. If you've read this far you'll know I tried to put Zeus seals in it and couldn't get the input seal to make contact on the housing. Zeus were contacted and the best answer they had was try another steering box. The Genuine seal kit I fitted started to leak again. I revisited the Zeus kit. When I originally fitted the bottom seal the outer O-ring tore itself against the housing which was the final straw for this kit. I measured the rings and ordered new. for reference they are inner 2.5x31.5mm outer 2.5x40mm. Thankfully having the right tools meant the drop arm was off and the leaky seals were quickly out. Here you can see the Zeus seal inserted and circlip in place. Note how it sits higher up on the shaft and seals in a different place. 24hrs on and its still dry.... I give it 2 weeks ....................

This image should help

EFI in a series well done, I've been mulling this over myself. I was looking to go the ACR Power Plus system which I had before. But a recent delve into all things Megasquirt and a mild understanding keeps bringing me back to EFI for the old Series engine. Inlet manifold is an area that Ive had an idea that may help. Although its doing it via buying products that already exist so cost goes up. I plan to use the ACR inlet manifold which has the SU 4 bolt flange and has been designed for better flow. Bolt this SU all in one throttle body to it just like the one you have from VW Speedshop. https://www.specialist-components.co.uk/index.php/shop/engine-management/engine-managemennt-accessories/generic-injection-su-throttle-body.html If the bolt patterns match up with your throttle body and the mounting you're working on doesn't work for you then the ACR manifold (expensive) might help. Throw in an O2 sensor, Microsquirt, a coil pack, Temp sensor. IAT Trigger wheel some magic and its done. Years of tuning and tinkering. Right I'm off outside to check the WUE as its warmer than it was yesterday and maybe tweak my Cranking Pulse...............

Exhaust again. The intermediate pipe although sounding awesome was a bit much. Under load the resonance was a jarring, it needed a bit more thought. Allisport make this....... How much??**!! A quick hunt on Jetex’s website I bought a 2.5” silencer called Handy.. I reckon it would fit the straight part of the intermediate pipe. Bit of measuring and chopping.. Some welding I started with the Tig and two things. I’m still not a Tig welder and I ran out of gas. So the mig finished off the mess I’d started. Sound wise. Sorted... the silencer has removed the harsh resonating tone and kept everything deep and subtle.