JCC

Ahh, and if no light comes through get out the long drill bit - I didn't write that, LOL. Seriously if you take the cat off and the neighbors don't mind consider going for a drive with earplugs. You won't set any codes on a '98 OBD. The older pellet type internal bed design has right angle flow and support baffles that make visual diagnosis problematical except when platinum starts falling out.

The up & down play at the IRD ends is disturbing. Slight rotational play is normal for driveshafts as are small wear particles in drained used gear oil. Just my generalizations, specialist opinion needed.

The best way is a "test pipe" that replaces the cat-con but I haven't seen these lately as they are illegal for road use. Some shops install a back pressure gauge at the O2 sensor fitting upstream on the exhaust. Another very old school trick is get an intake manifold vacuum gauge with diagnostic instructions. I think this is for experienced engineers as the interpretation of readings is subtle. Comparison to a similar vehicle for hill climbing ability is least invasive. A rule of thumb where I live is any cat-con with over 120k miles has lost efficiency and worth considering replacing just for the environment. Less expensive low restriction racing cat-cons are my choice if road legal for your location. I don't feel guilty for recommending them because their slightly higher HC is offset by actually lower CO2 output!

The only thing I can add is maybe the exhaust cat-con is partially plugged. Assuming one is fitted, its core could be breaking up from old age or excess fueling from a misfire could have melted it. This often gets overlooked on otherwise sound engines.

My approach would be to use the connectors supplied with the new stereo to fit the existing power & speaker wires. Often a continuos non-switched power source in needed for memory and anti-theft user coding. The AC recirculation solenoid noise is hopefully not related to more serious AC problems. The solenoid may be bad and was just left disconnected. I would keep its wiring separate from the stereo for less confusion. With no cold air with engine and AC on, have the system checked by a specialist who can recharge it and test for refrigerant leaks. Hope you have a good wiring diagram!

There are simple things like a loose display wiring connector or cracked solder joint on circuit board. These could be fixed by a skilled tech or DIY but a new unit comes with new CD and maybe some other features. If you decide to replace it with something non-OEM get the instal done by a good shop or skilled person. I've seen some really bad instals, especially for alarms, but an OEM radio should be easy.

The piggyback fuel controller needs a minimum voltage while starting, say above 8. A bad starter could drag the vehicle voltage down from friction but often it's the reverse and the starter won't draw current so scratch that idea. If all the electrical and mechanical checks are good then could your fuel have bugs and/or water?

With an accurate digital voltmeter you can test the battery charge. Switch off 12.6 volts is ideal for fully charged but readings of 12.4 - 12.2 are still enough to crank the starter though the battery is low. As above, with engine running 14+ is normal with lights and other loads off. Alternators are difficult to DIY test as brushes can be worn and diode solder connections cracked resulting in near normal voltage output but inability to recharge the battery. P.S. don't leave a discharged battery out in very cold weather - it will crack from freezing!

Hi, sounds normal for high humidity in a closed up car when the outside temp drops overnight. You could try running max defrost (AC on recirculate) to help dry the cabin air before exiting. John

Hi, tire balance vibration would be noticed without braking and usually happens at higher speeds. The vibration could be from glazed brake discs from too little use, or heat spots if they were abused during running-in. Just a guess on the discs, glazing can be helped by washing or use. Tires do have a natural vibration frequency that can interact with suspension spring rates if the dampers are weak.

Hi, on the U.S. LR2 the clock is set through the radio "menu" button next to the right side rotating knob selector. The instrument panel time display follows what is set in the radio. Hope this helps.