td5defender

Gudday Paul, I have a Td5 110 with LR 7J 16x33 alloys. I have been running the terra firma 30mm alloy spacers for last 4.5 years, heavy loads, a lot of motorway travelling and plenty of light off road use. I have not had any issues as such with them and I would recommend. The vehicle looks better IMO, they improve handling on the motorway, and assist with the turning circle. only negative I have noticed is I occasionally get some steering shudder if I do a slow tight turn at a specific radius. that is rare I cannot quite pick when its going to occur so a very small price to pay for the benefits. I have not had issues with bearings/stub axles etc though I suggest it would be good practice to check the spacer retaining bolts. time again? if you can find a rim you like with the offset that works for you that might be a simpler approach as one less thing to check. photos below showing wheel fitted with spacer and without to give comparison.

Hi there, thanks for the posts. 👍 Thank you! Unfortunately, I did not see the last couple of entries before I sent the Landy off to a LR specialist. It would have been good to check these items first.... I will let you know what happens... hopefully I have missed something straight forward and its an easy fix??? mmm not so confident on that one but let's see...! thanks to everyone for their help and support 👍👍👍

Thanks for the idea - good call but I tried the EKA code a couple of times but with no luck...

Hi again, and thank you for the comments. I think we are on the right track with diagnosing the problem. It makes the most sense to me given the symptoms. My only nagging doubt is that these units worked in another vehicle... but what we are seeing in my Td5 does seem to point to one of these two units... If we take it that there is a problem with the alarm ECU and/or immobilisation function of the engine ECU, then that raises the question of how do I best resolve this issue? At the moment I have a 2 tonne piece of fine art work stuck in the garage! On the starter relay - Yes I did swap over the starter relay with a new one but it made no difference. It is not "clicking" when I try a start which I believe will be because the immobiliser is stopping it going to ground so the circuit is not being completed? On this note, I can hear a relay clicking under the driver seat when I turn the key to position III. Any ideas on how to resolve this probable ECU issue would be much appreciated. Thanks for the support with this! Cheers Scott

Hi all, i am yet to be convinced there is a problem with the starter solenoid or starter at this stage. If i bypass the starter circuit by applying 12V directly to the blade terminal on the side of the solenoid the starter fires normally. The engine either fires momentarily or not all in this case. The issue is that I am not getting 12V at the solenoid blade terminal wire (the main feed to the starter solenoid is geting permanent 12V as normal). The fault that is stopping 12V getting to the blade terminal is also interfering with the engine running. Possible alarm ECU fault or issue in the starter circuit? Given the ECUs worked fine in another vehicle maybe points to a starter circuit issue? I would be happy to pull the starter out and inspect the starter solenoid, but cant see the point at this stage when signs pointing elsewhere? Sure worth it given it works perfect if i throw 12V at the solenoid blade terminal? Just to respond to a few suggestions directly: yes tried locking/unlocking a few times, will find out if any ECU codes came up when tested, no flashing red light on speedo cluster - get steady red light, then light goes off and stays off when unlock car with key fob plus flash of hazards, have not touched fuel filter / fuel system, checked ecu earth and earth straps under vehicle all cleaned and reinstalled, crank sensor wires confirmed connected. Referred to Haines manual 5.7 Section 8. I haven't seen the red light on the speedo flashing recently but remember it used too? I'm going to have to get this towed to a pro unless anyone has any final ideas I can try?

hi all, ECU's back in and still same problem (not suprised!). turn key to psition II and everything normal - dash lights up, fuel pump primes system etc. Turn to position III nothing happens... will have a look at ideas above. but to confirm - no crank. cheers!

Thanks for the suggestions, very much appreciated. First plan is to reinstall the ECU's, show Defender big hammer so it knows what's coming if it misbehaves, and then try for a start. if this does not work I will run through this troubleshooting and report back.... might take a bottle of scotch with me tomorrow, looks like i will need it 🤣

hi all, quick update - the alarm and engine ecu + key fob went up to a qualified adult for diagnosis and some stern words / reprogram. Of course, they arrived, were fitted to a donor vehicle..... and worked perfectly...! 🤬 The issue could not be replicated. So they are on their way back to me for a reinstall in the Landy. If they don't work I will be giving the Defender a right telling off. I will keep you posted... Cheers Scotty

I went with the Hard Korr XD120 which is excellent - only thing I would look at changing is having one each side rather than just the one in the middle. I have wired up to a carling switch on dash so operates independently of reverse lights. https://hardkorrlighting.com/en-nz/product/xd-series-18w-slimline-driving-light-xd120/

\ Thank you for the comment/offer much appreciated - parts are on the way north so I will see how this goes. I did try the manual immobilise override procedure before I sent the parts off as a last ditch effort to get her going. This is using the key to enter a code whilst opening the door in between each entry - convoluted process but thought it could be worth a try. It didn't. Immediately removed both ECUs in disgust and sent them off. I will advise how things go...

Hi everyone, Thank you all for your comments. "OK,a bit more sober now" ha ha ha i like the "a bit more" part! I have been off air for a couple of days and still out of town, I will be back to the landy on Friday. I will definitely try locking/unlocking a few times and see if that does the trick. The new battery in the key fob did not make any difference - long shot but I was hopeful this might be an easy fix! It's looking like this issue is down to this passive immobiliser interfering with the ecu for some reason. I have a plan... for now. Talking to an independent land rover pro in the north island he is recommending I remove the engine ecu / alarm ecu and send those up to him with the key fob and he will check them out and reprogramme them via another vehicle. I will give that a go and hopefully, that works. May end up losing the passive immobiliser function (not ideal) but will see how it goes. If that doesn't work.... well i'll be putting the thing on a truck and sending him the whole vehicle. Figure the ecu's and a key fob is a bit easier to move 600+kms north at this stage than 2+ tonne of some very fine automotive engineering... I will keep you posted on how I get on. Big thank you to everyone who has posted comments for me. very much appreciate the support. thank you! BR Scott

Thanks for the comments - checked inertia switch - thought that might be it. I expect its the passive immobiliser being an interfering so and so... Im going to try new battery in the key fob. possibly a long shot but easy fix. I can't think of anything I mucked around with during oil change/inspection that could have caused this problem. I did not change the diesel filter this time around. Very weird why it suddenly freaked out on me. Thank you for the comments - ill keep you posted.

North - Landy is in Wellington at the moment...

Thanks eightpot and western for your comments/advice. Very much appreciated. It was driving OK prior to the oil change. no unusual noises etc. Very occasionally it didn't want to get into gear - I forget which one as it happened so rarely. I'll check an oil sample and find out what parts could be wearing. Thanks again 👍

Thank you cackshifter for your comments. I don't know what is causing this issue so I will seek out some professional help and look at stealing a car in the meantime! 👍 Cheers!

Hi All I have just changed the oil in the R380 gearbox and I'm embarrassed to say it was left too long (about 55 KM/34 Miles). But I need to be honest, and someone might learn from my mistakes. And the oil had emulsified into a pale smelly liquid after failing to replace oil after some river crossings about 30KM ago). I know not good... I've given myself a good telling off! Anyway, to make matters worst there were brass filings in the oil. See attached photo. I would like to say that was all of it, but it was only a small part of the filings I got out of the gearbox. I expect this emulfisfied oil has acted as a cutting agent rather than a lubricant? I'm very keen to hear everyone's opinion on whether this vehicle should be driven at all, or if I can carry on for the time being and reassess in XX miles/kms? (Yes fresh oil in there now!) Thank you!

Hi All, I have a very sad Defender in the workshop and I could really do with some advice from people way more knowledgable than me! Its a 2000 Td5 Defender 110. I see there is a whole lot of threads on Td5s not starting however could not locate something to let me know if there is something else I can try or if I just need to get some professional help 💰. I had just replaced the engine oil and started it up no problems to let the oil distribute through the engine. It was not driven anywhere. The next morning I went back to the workshop and to my disbelief, it would not start. I'm like what the..?????????? So everything is normal when I turn the key, (confirmed the alarm is unlocked using the key fob), turn key, dash lights etc come on, accessories liven up, fuel pump primes system, turn to start... nothing. No sounds, just the silence of despair and frustration...! Possible 👹 possession? Checked all fuses. All OK. The battery is in very good condition. Got under Landy and checked all electrical grounding straps/connections. All good. I tested the main power cable to the starter and confirmed power, the smaller cable to the starter, however, was not getting power when the key was turned to start position. OK, so the problem identified? Removed the starter relay and confirmed on the load side of the relay that one had 12v and the other side went to ground. On the control side, one side was getting power when the key was turned to start (good) but the other side was not going to ground (not so good). Removed the screws holding in the fuse/relay bracket in and, from memory, it was a brown orange wire that is on the ground side of the relays control circuit. Trying to be smart, I thought if I connected it directly to ground the problem would be solved. I tried this and plugged starter relay back in. Turned key as before and...It started! Yes! High fives. But.... the celebrations were over quickly as it only ran for a few seconds and then cut out. Going off previous threads, I expect the immobiliser is interfering in this configuration? I have restored this ground wire to its original state (reconnected it) so I'm back to nothing happening when I turn the key. I have pushed my skills to the limit and I am out of ideas... I do not have a nanocom or equivalent ecu reader. I do not understand how electrics can be perfect (I know, I know.... lets say "starter circuit" in this instance... ) for years, and then not work only a few hours later without any direct interference. Any ideas on something I can do to fix this problem? I am supposed to be using the car tomorrow to go on a trip, so no chance to get help from a sparky (or priest🤣) prior to then... so wondering if there is something I can try or if its a case for some pro help and an alternative transport plan... Thank you in advance!

Thank you! Mike - might look at taking your advice and rewiring it as per your instructions once and for all given it is such a poor design. Phil - was not towing at the actual time the switch blew but I do tow reasonably regularly so guess could of played a part in this. Thanks for the info and tips everyone!!! Got to love LR's.... You have all been a huge help. Will get onto it and try and get this sorted. Thanks again I really appreciate it! Scotty

Hi there - huge thank you to you all for your help I appreciate it!!! Cheers! I will pass it on to the auto electrician for further investigation and let you know how i get on! I finally found another thread on this topic: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60245 Just on this note does anyone know what the relay is for behind the instrument panel? It is down low, in the back right hand corner behind the instrument panel. It is "clicking" when I cycle the faulty switch through its full movement so wondering if this could be related or causing any problems possibly? I have a photo but not sure how to share that with you. If this head light switch is notoriously poor has anyone just fitted a heavier duty switch? Apart from being a real faf my "bypass" switch has worked faultlessly so was wondering with my huge lack of any knowledge if this would work. I am also wondering if anyone has any ideas why the #8 10 Amp hazard light / rear wash/wiper fuse is blowing at regular intervals - is this related in any way? Thanks again for your help. Really appreciate it... Scotty

Hi All, Having issues and need your help!! <Please accept my apologies if there is already a thread on this - I have read a number of threads but could not find any that quite covered this issue - if you know of one please let me know> I have a 2000 Td5 Defender 110. I had my headlights fail suddenly whilst the Landy was at attack speed on the motorway (think back country road in the UK for equivalent quality road) and on an extremely dark night. Typical. Anyway suddenly in pitch black I threw out the sea anchors and after very nearly filling my pants I got her to a stop. Lucky for me I was not mid way through a high speed turn otherwise I would not be here to write this post. Well lucky for me at least.... The side lights still worked but no headlights. By pulling back on the control column I regained full beam. Anyway I bypassed the switch (connected all three wires together) and problem solved so carried on. I replaced the headlight switch and I thought the problem was solved. About 12 months later this happened again. Luckily this time I was parked in town. So no underwear change required this time so improvement on one level at least ... I did notice a clicking sound behind the dash with the faulty switch on. Luckily I had kept my "bypass switch" and I have been using that for sometime now with no issues other than the faf of having to plug it in rather than flicking a switch. Anyway I thought it was about time I get this problem solved before I fit the new headlight switch that is making the trip over from the UK as I write this. I know nothing about electrics so I had my Defender at the auto electrician last Friday. He could not find out what is causing the switch to burn out. He was going to add a relay? In the circuit but said there was already one there so he was stumped. Does he need to add a different relay or could the one be faulty or does he need to and another? Or is the relay not the issue? I have replaced the head light bulbs with a brighter bulb but I would need to check with what as this was a while ago (it is midnight here in the colonies so can start pulling the headlights to pieces tomorrow if you need to know). I am about 80% sure the first switch failure was with standard bulbs and the second was with the brighter bulbs. But I cannot be certain sorry. As I say it is the final stage of the headlight switch that is burning out - the first stage (side lights) work. Other info: I am also having the #8 10 Amp hazard light / rear wash/wiper fuse blowing - is this related in any way? My auto electrician came up with nothing there too! The three wires in my "bypass switch" get quite warm when in use - not sure if this is significant or not but include just in case. Looks like my Auto Electrician needs some guidance so any help would be very much appreciated!!! If you need any more info please let me know and I will find out for you. If I can't get this solved I suggest we all buy shares in Lucas given the amount of headlight switches I will be buying!!! Thank you in advance I am really stuck here. Appreciate it. Big time! Cheers Scotty.

Thanks Jason for the good advice - appreciate it. Will look into your suggestions. Cheers for reply and help. Scott

Hi All, Please forgive me if there is already a topic on this - quite possible I missed it. I have a 2000 TD5 Defender and I would like to get a aftermarket ECU chip to increase power and torque output from the TD5 engine. It would be great to have some extra power so it doesn't die going up a hill or when asked to tow a trailer.... even a small improvement would be nice! I have a feeling that there maybe some issues involved with re-chipping the 2000 model? Even less sure if it cant be done or if it just means it is a more involved process! Very keen to hear if someone has managed to get some more torque out of a similarly aged TD5 and what I need to do and/or what chip I should get. I don't have the budget for a major engine rebuild so hopefully a chip replacement is possible! Reduced fuel economy is not a big issue - I would rather have the torque! Any advice on the way forward would be much appreciated. Thank you! Scott

Huge thank you for your help! I checked the earths / terminals and speedo transducer as mentioned above and all looked OK / applied wd40. Your comment Ralph about the fuses made me think it may be worth re-checking those again. I checked all of them and I found the fuse in socket 10 (Alarm) failed a continuity test so replaced that. For some reason beyond me that seemed to fix the problem - gauges back working as are the indicators! Anyway Im wrapped so cheers for your help. Only problem I have now is the horn is letting of two short honks whenever I try and set the alarm... Will try and work that one out. Thanks again everyone for your help! Scotty

Hi all, Sorry for being a broken record but just desperately need some help / advice with this. (This question is also posted on Luke's thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376). My speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature gauge and indicators all simultaneously stopped working whilst driving. I went through the steps in Luke's post and all worked as expected until I repeated the tests with "light switch supply". Using "light switch supply" the indicators did not work in this case. Hazard lights work with both the ignition on or off and gauge back lights still work as does digital odometer – though that is not counting any miles with the zero speed reading. Sorry for posting this again – I am new to all this and just thought it may be lost at the end of Luke's post. I expect there is already a thread that covers this but I have been looking for sometime with no luck. If there is please point me in right direction! Any help as what (and how) I need to look at next would be very much appreciated. Cheers Scotty

Hi Everyone! I am new to the forum and also relatively new to the joys of Defender ownership… Being very inexperienced yet keen with marginal mechanical knowledge (great combination - just be pleased I am not working on your lr!) I have a number of repairs on the go. Oh yes you can read from that it is in many pieces and now not even close to being back on the road! Anyway this is a great thread (thank you) but have got as far as I can and now I am stumped. I have done the tests outlined at the start of the thread and all successful when I use the permanent supply. However when I try to repeat the tests using 'Light switch supply' instead of 'permanent supply' with the ignition switch on second click I get nothing. The problem I am trying to resolve is my speed gauge, fuel gauge and temperature gauge all read zero (back lights and odometer still receiving power) and my indicators will not work with the ignition on. Hazards work fine both with ignition off and on. Keen to know what I should try next? Thank you!