Inigo

My understanding is that you can (I certainly can on mine), I think it is even possible to drive the oil pump via the distributor drive to build up oil pressure after a rebuild before running the engine for the first time.

Hmm, if I try and roll it out lengthwise it very quickly jams against the end. Perhaps if I remove the rods for the clamp I might be able to roll it from side to side as I lift it out at one end. I suspect I will have to be drilling out rivets soon. In hindsight, I wish I'd bought a shorter replacement so that this would not have to be done again in the future. I guess if I bolt it in this time, it would make it easier next time.

My battery is on the way out and as I plan to fit various electrical bits and bobs soon, I thought now would be a good time to replace it. Unfortunately, I cannot get the old battery out of the box (under rear wheelarch as PO put LPG stuff under passenger seat) as it appears to be bigger than the hole at the top. Anybody got any bright ideas on how to remove battery without entirely dismantling the rear. I struggle to believe that he riveted the box in place with the battery in situ.

Where were you thinking of fitting the fuse/relay box? I want to add a bunch of stuff to mine, but am struggling to find somewhere sensible to fit the fue/relay part.

I also chose ADAC as they cover old cars (can't remember what the limit is with RAC and AA, but newer than mine) and trailers. I had the good fortune to give it a test run on only my first full day of ownership (foolishly collected car without taking a full tool kit with me). After phone call to Germany, confused AA man turned up quite quickly and ripped apart steering column shroud to find the loose connection on ignition switch that I suggested might be the problem (he was quite interested that it was cheaper for ADAC cover than the AA equivalent).

My 1987 110 has Boost alloys on, no centre caps though. Haven't had a proper look behind them yet to see if any spacers have been used.

New fuel pump fitted - gives a pressure reading of around 5 psi, engine now runs well and for as long as I like at high revs. Can now do the timing and carb tuning properly. Thanks everyone. I have a new issue. The old fuel gauge read either massively overfilled (equal to fuel tank full) or just overfilled (fuel tank empty). I replaced gauge with a VDO version and now gauge reads half full (when fuel tank 3/4 full), but this varies wildly with RPM. Not terribly useful. Should I investigate the in tank sender, the wiring in between or any earths? I have the paperwork for the VDO gauge and can investigate what signal it expects, what signal is being sent from the original sender? Should I be able to just swap these over - or is that where my problem lies?

As an aside, I previously noticed a strong smell of petrol while driving and then noticed that fuel was actually running out of the filter bowl underneath the car. It seems that the cheapy ebay filter housing I bought, the seal was not fuel resistant and appears to have swollen over a couple of days and now will not go back in the recess, maybe 2cm too long. Replaced with genuine item.

OK. Volume output from pump appears to be 280ml per minute, which would be enough to feed a 58 BHP engine. Also pressure, when pumping appears to be around 1 psi. I'll fit the new fuel pump (when I get a gasket) and see what figures I get then.

Thanks everyone. It is an in tank fuel pump, which I have just ordered a replacement for (Allmakes as the Land Rover one is £250). Before I replace it, I have found (on the pilgrim sumo site) a description of how to test if it is pumping enough (disconnect fuel line at carb, let pump run for 1 minute, measure volume of fuel collected.) Amount required relates to the BHP of the engine thus: CC per minute = BHP X 4.7. Might have to get a fuel pressure gauge to test the pump pressure of old and new - I guess a cheapy ebay job temporarily fitted in the engine bay would do? Lucas 35DLM8 dizzy, so I'm not sure it has a condenser, but does have an external amplifier. If none of this solves it, my plan was to take it to the local rolling road tuner to get him to play with jets, etc. I just wanted to get the obvious things and things he can't do anything about out of the way first - he was the one who discovered the crushed carb floats last time.

I have a 1987 110 V8 that has been fitted with an Edelbrock carb and an LPG system. It ran OK on LPG, but not very well on petrol. On investigation, the carb floats had been crushed so it was running way too rich and flooding. Current state: new floats, carb fettled, new leads, dizzy cap, coil and spark plugs. Static timing done. It now runs fine on petrol at low revs. At high revs, or under load it starts to stumble after a while eg I can give it some welly up a hill in third and it runs great for about 20 seconds then starts to stumble and miss. If I back off and give it a minute or two I can again accelerate hard, if briefly. Similarly on the motorway, it is OK until about 65 in fifth when it starts to stumble if I try and get it going faster. It previously ran well up to 90 on lpg. My initial feeling is a fuel issue. I replaced unknown fuel filter in line in the engine bay with what I thought was the correct Land Rover part (STC1677) that is a metal canister with tube stubs coming out of each end. I have since found out that for the low pressure carb pump, the plastic fuel filter may have less resistance. I then traced fuel lines back to under seat fuel tank (rear tank removed to add LPG tanks) and found an additional filter housing (NRC9786)- I replaced filter or rather fitted filter as filter housing was empty. Still the same issues. Would using two sequential filters slow down the flow of fuel? Is my fuel pump shot? Fuel appears to be reaching the carb, but I'm not sure what the flow rate needs to be or how to test? Checking parts manuals, originally the vehicle would have had a vapour separator and a fuel return line - I have neither. Would the lack of these cause a problem?

Very handy - thanks. Looks like they should fit.

I had started collecting parts to convert my rear Salisbury axle to disk brakes, but was persuaded by Nigel that refurbing the Salisbury diff was a no-no. I am now the proud owner of a shiny (well rusty) TD5 110 rear axle. I'm about to clean it up and see what needs replacing, but I'm not sure what the differences are between the calipers already on the axle and the new ones I have lying about (STC1268 and STC1269). Can anyone say whether I can simply swap over these calipers?

Well, that's a fairly comprehensive reply! Thanks for the intricate details, unfortunately, I am still scared. My major fear is finding something that is not quite as you described, or breaking/losing something and then being utterly unable to work out what to do next, stuck with the diff out and in pieces and still not having an expert on hand who can take over when I stuff it up.

I have decided a need a locker on my rear diff and am currently leaning towards a Truetrac (for fit and forget and reasonable on road manners), however all the advice regarding Salisbury diffs is to leave well alone unless you are an expert (which I am not). I have found several suppliers of the Truetrac, but not anyone who says they will fit it (Ashcroft, for example, specifically say they do not work with Salisbury diffs). I would take it to my local independent, but if it is that tricky I want to feel comfortable that whoever I was asking to do this had some experience and done it before. Any suggestions for someone in the South East who might be worth approaching?

All the advice about replacing distributor parts insists on only buying genuine parts as most others are rubbish. I understand Lucas no longer exist and so even the genuine parts are not genuine now. If I need a new rotor arm and distributor cap - how do I go about getting ones that won't die immediately?

Well I just paid around £1.50 + VAT for MTC2640.

Well I'm slowly replacing the more cracked bits as I get through them. It would be interesting to know the sort of price difference between a plastic replacement part and a CF version. Any idea of the sort of ball park prices?

Ah, thanks Western. I shall add it to the growing list of things that I should probably do at some point.

I note from that picture that there is supposed to be a handbrake switch. I don't have one, but do appear to have spare connection of some sort hanging about near the stiffener bracket. Drawing suggest that switch is fitted on the handbrake bracket itself, on the other side of the seatbox. Is there a pressing reason to actually fit a handbrake switch? I normally remember to not drive off with it engaged and I seem to have just passed an MOT with no switch.

Oh and new cable was PTFE sheathed, but I lubricated it as well.

There was a boss welded to the bracket, which was removable so that the handbrake cable could be unscrewed on the bench. Not sure I saw a mention of this anywhere, but I think this is a V8 stiffening bracket, so probably peculiar to the V8.

Hello All Handbrake cable snapped yesterday, but a friend had a selection of three for me to refit a new one. All going well, following advice on here until I tried to remove the cable from the seatbox. Not quite sure how it is supposed to be fixed, but new cable appears to have a lock nut on one side and a hex on the other, like a standard bulkhead fitting. Existing cable seems to have a boss welded to the back of the seatbox and nothing on the front side. Soaked in penetrating spray and I'll have another go at undoing it tomorrow, but only space for a stubby spanner. I would remove the cubby box, but it has an additional heater matrix plumbed in to the cooling system so have to drain down the coolant first. These five minute jobs always seem to take longer than anticipated.

Nice idea with the mixing still, my problem with my handheld variable speed drill is that it is difficult to hang on tight, push down hard and yet squeeze the trigger only lightly.

I'll take some photos this evening.