Inigo

The part that I need to cut holes in is the base of an enclosure within the trailer. It seems to be welded construction so I cannot easily dismantle it to get the sheet on the bench and I can only take it to someone else if I take the whole trailer there and not sure how easy it would be for them to cut inside the box either. Another alternative would be to cut a great big square hole and bolt down a mounting plate - so I can drill some smaller holes around the edge and jigsaw a square-ish hole in the middle.

I'm trying to fit a Webasto heater to a camping trailer that is made of fairly thin stainless sheet TIG welded together. I need to cut assorted holes in the base (4 x 7.5mm, 2 x 26mm and 1 x 90mm) to bolt down the Webasto, let air in and out and let exhaust out. My first thought was for carbide tipped drills in a portable drill and I found these carbide hole saws http://www.steelworkerstools.com/sm26-26mm-tungsten-carbide-tipped-sheet-metal-hole-saw.html that might be useful. But to cut stainless I need to push hard and cut slowly which might be difficult trying to cut in situ. Perhaps I could jack up a sheet of ply from underneath? I got to thinking about a plasma cutter. There are cheap chinese ones on Ebay for not an enormous amount more than a set of carbide drills and hole saws. What are the chances of a novice not making a complete pigs ear of it? Any other suggestions?

I bought ERR2429 thermostat gasket and thought that it fouls the water pump inlet (at least I think that is what the hole slightly below the left hand bolt hole for the thermostat cover is. When I just used the gasket I bought: Water pours out when I try and refill the system. can anyone suggest which gasket I could use that also seals around this inlet?

Chiselled off the offending lens (only breaking it a bit in the process). When I tested the bulb, it was fine. I suspect my changing headlamps disturbed the handful of spaghetti behind the lights and my prolonged hammering temporarily dealt with the loose connection. I shall: replace cracked and glued back together lens replace rusted screws with stainless replace standard bulbs with LED (except indicators) to reduce heat

Well that's good to know as I smash off the old ones.

I have removed the two screws and can see the three screws and feel them from inside the engine bay. I think glue may be the culprit - makes it somewhat tricky to change bulbs. I shall give it another go and see what breaks first.

I need to replace an indicator bulb and assumed it would be a simple, straightforward job. The owner's manual says to simply remove two screws and withdraw the lens - which I can't. Tried wacking it with a rubber mallet and gentle prying, but it appears to be stuck. Peering through the lens I can see some additional screw holding the body of the assembly on to the front of the car. On my Puma the whole assembly was removed. Any tips before I break something?

Don't really want to go in to too much detail yet as it will probably end up in court. Basically they say that the engine is not covered by warranty as I exceeded the wading depth. I say it is down to a faulty injector overfuelling. Not one person I have spoken too has come up with a possible, let alone plausible, theory as to how getting it wet/muddy can lead to an engine runaway. Anyway, various bits of engine apart and out, getting independent experts to provide reports, etc. Complete waste of time and makes me not want to buy a new vehicle from anyone ever again. Bottom of that non-existent list would be anything from Land Rover.

My 2012 Puma has a dead engine at less than 13,000 miles. Land Rover won't cover under warranty. While the vehicle is off the road and I argue the case, I bought a 1987 V8 110 that had been home maintained by the previous owner. Worlds apart. I will be keeping the V8.

Just checked that thread and it seems he is making them again now. Price is more or less what I paid for the parts.

That's the one. I couldn't see that the chap who put it all together was selling a complete system anymore, so I managed to order a couple of boxes, a handful of relays and bucketload of connectors and seals from Waytekwire and get it shipped via reship. The vehicle I had planned to use these on is off the road for the moment, but I have a replacement! Just got to find somewhere to site the fusebox and then I'll have a play.

There is a Bussman waterproof fuse and relay box, detailed on the ih8mud forum but only available in the states. I ordered a couple together with assorted connectors to have a play with. Not yet got around to seeing if it all goes together well though.