ninety84

Concerning the pressed stay fouling the filler hose, I have found the following solution: Obviously LR changed the shape of the stay for later models with the longer filler neck so the hose will not touch the stay anymore. So I ordered a galvanized pair of these (the old ones were pretty bad anyway) through Ebay. Partnumber is MUC9220. See attached pic for the difference in shape between the old and the new one. The left end in the picture is attached to the rear tub, the right side to the sill

Hi Lewis, Excellent writeup and self-explanatory pics. Thanks for that. The fuel filler hose on my 1984 ninety is pretty rotten and a bit leaky as well, so I want to replace it. It seems I already have the longer filler neck and the hose you used as well (NTC2338) as it is fouling the pressed stay connecting the tub with the sill. Just to be sure before I order a hose, I'd like to know the diameter of the filler neck (outer diameter of metal pipe where the tube connects). Mine measures 58mm. Could you take a measurement at your vehicle? Seb

The Gates 6222MC (AVX10x1050La) fits like a glove and there is plenty of room to re-tension the belt should there be any stretch.

Oops typo in my previous post: the longer belt I will buy is not AVX10x1025La but AVX10x1050La, so 25mm longer than the one that doesn't fit.

I am having the same problem: changing the fan/alt belt and the PS belt on my 200Tdi (defender). PS belt works OK, but the fan/alt belt is a real PITA. The fan belt that came off is a Gates 6472MC, which is 12mm wide and 1025mm long. Put on there by a previous owner. I thought to just go and buy the proper belt that should go on there as the 12mm wide one is chafing the engine block between fan pulley and crankshaft pulley. The correct belt (as by gates catalogue) is the 6221MC, which is 10mm wide and 1025mm long. This is the same size as ETC7939. This belt is however (25mm shorter than the one that was on there) impossible to get on there. I have a 70A alternator (with original small pulley), that is perhaps a bit beefier that the original 45A, so it won't tilt enough to give me enough room to get the belt on. And once I have the belt on, I cannot bolt the alternator back on. So I think I might source a longer belt in the same width. That would make an AVX10x1025LA belt, which gates sells under 6222MC which is actually used on defenders 90-94 with 61kW 2.5L petrol engines (17J) with aircon. I think as long as the width is OK, the length is adjustable with the tensioning system. There is enough room to tilt the alternator to the side to tension the belt.

That mini fusebox looks very tidy! Nice job. Quite an expensive part however: on ebay at the moment for 28 quid.

If you put one or more filling rings under the fusebox (mounting bolts out, rings between mounting plate and fusebox and bolts in again) so that the blade fusebox sits a bit lower, you might actually be able to put the black cover on again... You win space behind the fusebox if you use the crimp on contacts in stead of blade contacts.

Guys, there are crimp on fuseholders available that you can use in those fuseboxes. You remove the spade-connector fuseholders, crimp the wire onto the crimp-on fuseholder and click it in. Saves space, one extra connection less and looks more tidy. It's these connectors: http://www.rdae.nl/kabelschoenen-div/ongeisoleerde-kont/3-7900r--20-stuks There is also a connector for thicker wires up to 6mm2. I am planning a project like mentioned above in my 1984 ninety, together with upgrading the headlight wiring loom (relays) etc. Want to be well-prepared before I dive into it.

Was going to get back on this topic to report pulley size of my alternator: it is 62mm, measured on the outer rim. Had to change the alternator today as the old one (45A) was dropping voltage to 11V when headlights and blower were on. Left me with an empty battery last year. Used the opportunity to upgrade to a 70A version and now it's nice and steady around 14V under load. Taking the alternator out made it nice and easy to measure the pulley size.

Oops, sorry, need 4 washers, I already found that answer myself. It's in the parts diagram

Haha, you are always so quick replying, nice. Just a few questions about the banjo fitting: Is it leakproof? What is the approximate tightening torque? And where should I put copper washers (crush washers??)? Options: between 1: banjo piece and oil filter housing; 2: banjo bolt and banjo piece; 3: banjo bolt and pressure switch; and 4: banjo piece and VDO pressure sender? So in total 4 washers? Or do I only need 2 for the connection between switch, sender and banjo? Already found out that the thread in the banjo piece to put the pressure sender (not the switch) is M10x1 as well. So will need VDO sender with M10x1 thread. You answer one question and you get a new bunch in return

Old topic, but just what I am looking into at the moment. In my 1984 LR 90 with 200Tdi (Defender 1992, not Disco! Perhaps the same oil-filter-housing-wise, but I’m not sure) motor I want to add a voltmeter, oil temperature meter and oil pressure meter. I'll put these clocks in the Mud Console that I prepared for this. I chose 52mm instruments from VDO's Cockpit International line. I've been looking everywhere to find the thread size of the various senders needed in order to place them in the places they are ment to be placed. LR part numbers were easy to find, but not the thread sizes if you want to use non-LR senders. I don't want to run the risk of them not being compatible with the VDO gauges and so give me inaccurate reading. To make things easy for all of you who want to do these mods in the future, here's a nice summary: Sender threads: Oil pressure switch M10x1 Oil temperature sender: : M16x1,5 (Goes in the place where blind plug ETC4021 is located; oil filter housing, facing forward. Plug goes out, sender goes in. For those who wonder if oil will pour out of the hole once you removed the plug: not if you allow the oil to seep into the oil sump, so leave the good old landy alone for an hour if you don't want to make a mess.) Now the oil pressure sender is a bit of a problem as there is not enough room for the 4,6cm diameter pot to fit in place of the original oil temp switch. There are 3 options: 1. The option described above by Western (Banjo fitting) 2. Buy a M10x1 T-piece (1x male, 2x female) that you screw into the original oil pressure switch hole and screw the VDO pressure sender into the side port (hoping that it will point into a direction that actually allows you to screw anything into it) and the original pressure switch into the end port of the T-piece. T-Piece can be found at Dingocroft, item ZZLMA050. Side port of this T-piece is 1/8" x 27 NTPF, so you will need a fitting oil pressure sensor. 3. Discard the old pressure switch and buy a VDO pressure sender with an integrated switch. You will still need some kind of adaptor or extension to move the sender away from the oil filter housing. You can still use the above mentioned T-piece, but cover the sideport with an M10x1 bolt or the old sender if you can actually reach the hole to achieve this. So parts needed (VDO part numbers): 350-030-003G: Oil pressure gauge 0-5bar 310-030-003G: Oil temperature gauge max 150deg C 332-030-001G: Voltmeter 12V All items have the large white nut to fix it in the dash/console. So no old fashioned metal strips/bars. Sensors: 323-801-004-012C: Oil temp max 150deg C M16x1,5 (length of thread + sensor tip = 29mm, M4 knurled nut for contact attachment), add a copper crush washer. Alternative is 323-801-012-001D (length 15mm. 6,3mm flat contact 90deg angulated) 360-081-029-001C: Oil pressure 0-5 bar M10x1, without warning contact. Alternative is 360-081-030-002C, M10x1 with warning contact, if you decide to discard the old pressure switch, just hook up the warning contact cable to the warning contact on the sender. Of course you can get any oil pressure sender as long as it fits the thread in your T-piece or other adaptor and of course is compatible with your gauge. This topic will be continued as soon as I have finished the installation. Pics of all the parts will be posted as well of course!

Nice, will look into that. Thx.

Thanks! But how does that work? -sorry, newby (and usually I repair humans, not cars )- Where do I take measurements? Can I point the laser on the viscous fan? Seb