DrT

Since the manual isolator is normally closed the chance of it welding that way is very small as there won't be any arcing happening until the moment you try to open the isolator. The contactors are always opening and closing by the very nature of their job so the chance of them welding is very much higher as they will arc an awful lot at high currents.

But if the solenoid has welded in the closed position your method won't stop the winch!

I've tried M16 and its a tiny bit too small and an M18 is too big! Nobody seem to make an M17 so I'm assuming its not metric.

Hi, Does anyone know the size of nut that fits a standard (Lucas I think) alternator from a 300Tdi Discovery? I've been to my local fasteners company complete with the alternator and they didn't have anything the right size. Thanks Tim

Front seal is relatively easy. Simply remove flange then extract old seal. Drift new seal in and replace flange. Hardest bit is the big nut holding the flange on!

or melt them!

Yes, I have two of them converted like this with no problem.

Oh, didn't realise that, I thought they were the same. Okay, you learn something new every day! Thanks.

Hmm, seems like there is a slight size difference between the two.

The D2 one looks identical to the D1 one I have. What is the difference, does anyone know?

Is there any difference between the spare wheel bracket of a Discovery 1 and that of a Discovery 2?

Right, It looks like that is a definite candidate for further investigation! Thanks.

Here's a question, if I temporarily removed the belt that goes around the alternator, water pump etc would I do any harm if I started the engine and drove it for a couple of hundred yards or so with the engine cold to cut down on the chance of overheating? This would at least prove if it was a pulley or something related to that belt.

Don't think so Kev because it does it if you are going straight or turning a corner, makes no difference. I would have thought it would vary if the power steering needed bleeding.

No, checked that. Had it down my local garage this afternoon and they are stumped too! What I need is a volunteer I can strap under the bonnet and then drive it up the road!!

I'll have to take a proper look but at a quick glance it looks fine.

Its a very loud mouse then as people I drive past can hear it!

My Disco 300Tdi Auto has developed a loud squeak. The problem is it only does it while driving and not when its stopped. It is definetly engine related because I can vary the pitch of the squeak by varying the engine revs. I tried the penny trick in case it was the tensioner pully, I've even replaced the bearing in that pully but no difference. I've just replaced the water pump since I could hear a slight rumble from it at tickover with the bonnet up but still the squeak persists. If I rev the engine with the bonnet up I hear no squeak. As soon as I drive a few hundred yards down the road the squeak starts. If I stop, the squeak stops. Its driving me mad. I'm asuming its a bearing somewhere so does anyone have an idea which one it might be?

We always use this as starting point for all our Lakes trips.

Yep, thats the one! Many thanks for finding that. Sorry Western, I didn't realise there was a specific forum to ask for part numbers.

Hi, I wondered if anyone knows the part number for the pipe that goes from the end of the air filter to the turbo on a Disco 200Tdi? All the parts manuals I have don't show the air filter, they seem to start from the turbo! Thanks Tim

For the tiny cost of diff guards compared to all the other mods you can do on a Landy, plus the fact that the diff pan is very thin metal I'd say fit them and forget the worry! A hole in the diff pan can leave you stranded.

Further research has revealed that this hole is an air equalisation vent so it looks like the pump diaphragm has failed. Ordered a new pump so that should fix it.

Hi, On our very early 300Tdi its suddenly started to spit diesel out of a small round hole in the body of the lift pump! The hole is located on the same side as the manual priming handle is located and on the widest part of the pump just below the lip between the top and bottom parts. It looks like it should have a grub screw in it but its at such an akward point to get at I can't be sure if it really is threaded. Has the hole just miraculously appeared or should there be something in it thats gone walkabout? I've taken a look at the almost identical pump on the 200Tdi and there is nothing there in the same location. Any ideas or clues would be most appreciated!

What sort of SWR are you getting off these mounts since the aerial is so close to the body of the vehicle? Especially the one on the spare wheel mount?