gavin.

Bugger... Protection and performance roll cage for one please.

You make it sound so easy! Thanks for the information.

Do you have any more information on this set up?

I'd second this. I had the same issue a while back and was relieved when I realised I didn't need to rebuild the hub.

Not good news. Just spent £500 on new bits in anticipation of my chassis swap, most of which were bearmach based on other readers advice... I hope that this was a one off.

Guys and Girls, I'd be grateful for any help on this one: Fault: Side lamps and tail lamps (i.e. those lamps illuminated when the "Switch Lighting" (stub lighting stalking on steering column) is set to the middle position) are permanently on whilst the battery is connected regardless of light switch and ignition configuration. With the ignition on the headlights are on in the dipped beam configuration. If the "Switch Lighting" is set to the middle or third (i.e. side lights or head lights) position the lights operate normally. Diagnosis so far: The following items have been removed and/or tested and appear to have no effect on the fault - these items are outlined green on the attachments: Fuse 1 from the engine compartment fuse box (removed) Switch Lighting (removed) White connectors on back of ignition barrel (removed) Relay Dim Dip (removed) Switch Column (removed) Removal of fuse 2 in the engine compartment fuse box (outlined red) cuts the lights. The respective fuses for each of the side lights (outlined orange) when removed cut their respective lights. It looks like there is a permanent feed coming from somewhere after connection C907-2, but I have no idea where and I can't understand why the lights still are on with the relay removed! Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance, Gav

Thanks for the feedback - I was hoping that someone would be able to go "sure, that's metallic moldy brie green!" but wasn't expecting it! I did go into Half®o(au)ds today but was underwhelmed once again by their service. I know of a good specialist in the area who said he can match it if I take the car there - good enough for me! Thanks again!

Guys and girls, I'm hoping that someone here can jump in and help! I need to do some bodywork repairs on my Defender 90 but I know the car was resprayed before I bought it and it wasn't sprayed in its original colour. It is a metallic green (not as dark as epsom(?) green, I think) whereas it used to be the standard non-metallic green you see so frequently on "farm" defenders. I have attached a few photos in the hope someone here can recognize it as a standard colour, if not I'll have to get a mix from a sample I presume. For reference, the red 90 in the background is a 2000 defender and is a standard metallic colour. I have looked at Vehicle Painting Pointers, but couldn't see anything. Any help welcomed!

That's not a bad looking 200TDi. I looked at one, exactly the same colour, age and engine last year and it was an absolute turnip; and the asking price was £3.5k! Enjoy!

The Santana they use for that series is run on SVO if my memory serves me correctly.

The under-seat tank, are they simetrical? And it would require the floor from the battery box to be removed, right?

Call it a load space then? I have seen hot rods with tanks where the back seats used to be and LRs with rear tanks. To be honest with you, I don't know the legalities of it; I will investigate before I start the conversion.

The way that is drawn would allow me to use the space between the seat and the bulkhead, any thicker than that and I would loose the seats. I do use the space behind the seats unforunately; I can put kit behind them and it won't roll about. Plus, I want to be able to remove the whole lot with minimum fuss if I come to sell it. Hmm, I like this idea (and Si hinted this way, too I think). Out of sight and out of mind. Not loosing load space or seating. It does mean that I will have to make several smaller tanks to be able to acheive the same range (I think), but it looks like it could be worth it. The spaces that spring to mind are in the rear arches forward and above the wheels, and near the rear exhaust box. Has anyone done anything like this?

This is what I will be fabricating in the new year. I wanted a tank that I could get 400 miles out of, keep all the seating, be able to secure using leather straps bolted to the floor and tub bulkhead and could be refilled from the off-side rear sliding window. The baffles need some more thinking about and I haven't put any detail on the way I will route the fuel line. Any comments welcomed, dimensions available on request.

I have a 300TDi that does the same thing. Removing the belt, cleaning it and replacing it will probably help for a week or two. Other than that I can't help, sorry.

There was going around a while ago, the rest are: P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement. S: Almost replaced left inside main tire. P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough. S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft. P: Something loose in cockpit. S: Something tightened in cockpit. P: Dead bugs on windshield. S: Live bugs on back-order. P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent. S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground. P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear. S: Evidence removed. P: DME volume unbelievably loud. S: DME volume set to more believable level. P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick. S: That's what they're for. P: IFF inoperative. S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode. P: Suspected crack in windshield. S: Suspect you're right. P: Number 3 engine missing. S: Engine found on right wing after brief search. P: Aircraft handles funny. (I love this one!) S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious. P: Target radar hums. S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics. P: Mouse in cockpit. S: Cat installed. P. Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer. S: Took hammer away from midget Not entirely sure of the legalities involved with putting stuff like this in an aircraft document set, but hey ho...

The Sea King aircraft that are operated by the Navy have had a maintenance policy developed specifically for them*: "If the aircraft is not leaking oils and other fluids, it is empty. Refill. If the aircraft is not vibrating, the main lift frames are cracked. Repair or Replace as necesary." * This is not a technical instruction issued by the design or engineering authority of the aircraft.

The only tyre I have a decent amount of replies for is the BFG AT which all come in within about +/-5% of the average (max life 95k miles and min life 85k miles) on a variety of different vehicles that spend no more than 20% of their time on the rough stuff. The MTs vary a lot more, as you would expect. Ian, I am not trying to get nobel prize level results - I am hoping that I can get just enough support to provide something that may give people an "at a glance" reference. If you drive a vehicle that is configured in such a was as to chew through a set of tyres in a quarter of time a "normal" vehicle would, then surely it doesn't matter which tyres you put on it they are going to wear quicker than normal - these results may still be just as useful? Alternatively I am far to naive to think that I can offer something useful when, really, all we want to do is go out and drive our cars and just who cares!

Not quantitative, but still useful none-the-less! Thank you.

Granted, driving style will affect wear rate, hence me trying my hardest to get as large a sample set I can. I am also asking for information about the amount of time the tyre spends on and off road so I can gain some indication of why there may be deviation within a data set. However, a soft compound tyre will wear quicker than a hard compound tyre and the trend will indicate this. The aim of this little pain in everyones rear which is masquerading as a survey is to get a rough idea of if there is a significant difference between one tyre type and another. For example, Kumho Mud and BFG MT above are similar tread patterns but have significantly different lives for a respective 10-20% increase in price and this thread may (read: may) have some influence on which tyre a reader chooses. All I can ask for is a few minutes of your time and hopefully this might be worth the effort I am putting in to it. Then again, it may be a complete waste of time and of no use to anyone - and if it is, I'll eat your hat. Mmmm hat...

Now, can you help me with the topic of this thread?

Removed. *points down*

Thanks BogMonster. Please feel free to remove the other threads if you think it is appropriate.

Ideal, makes life a little easier.

RH axis is how many miles (x1000) you will get with every 1mm of tread. Handy if you are buying part worn tyres.