Lightning

Easy things first. Have you checked/replaced the gearbox and transfer box oil?

Looks like a TDCi? ln the TD5 you can change from high to low range and back while stationary (in neutral or in gear with the clutch pedal down) When moving and in gear you need to be doing walking speed or slower, press the clutch and shift the lever between high/low as required

I would be tempted to change the oil and leave it. Monitor from time to time but only take it apart if it gets noisy or develops excessive play, you won’t be able to re build it yourself anyway without special tools. The rear diff was “moaning” on my 110 TD5 when l bought it on 56,000 miles. l changed the oil (and have changed it again since) but it’s now done 114,000 miles and is no worse.

You don’t need to spend £40,000 Last week l bought a very nice 2005 TD5 XS SW for £14,500 The chassis is the cleanest l’ve seen on a TD5 lt needed a few bits and pieces (front bumper, drive shafts, rear brakes) which l’ve already done. lts currently in for the only bodywork it needs, a bit of oxidation on the rear below the windows. And the rear door has been damaged sometime in the past by someone hitting the spare wheel on something while reversing. So a new rear door as well. So a pristine Defender SW with all the XS extras for £16,000

If both pins of the motor are showing live, it means that the circuit is earth switched. I assume the motor has a live feed on one of the pins, if you connect the other pin to earth the motor should run.

I tell you what, we had exactly the same fault on our 300tdi and after replacing the gearbox selectors, master cylinder and slave cylinder (which made no difference whatsoever) As a last resort l was about to replace the gearbox completely lt turned out to be the clutch. After a new one was fitted, it was transformed and the gears engaged smooth as butter.

Sadly this can’t be done on a TD5 Only option is to fit cruise control.

So is it worth using premium diesel in my TD5? l was never sure if there was any point paying the extra 10p a litre, but someone on this thread said they get 11% better economy when using it.

£1500 - £2000?

You are best contacting Mike at Dynachip. He knows pretty much everything about Defender ECU’s and will be able to sort you out. Also he will call out to you anywhere in the UK and is a fair bit cheaper than most others.

Ours did this, and l tried all sorts of solutions ln the end it turned out to be the rubber seals on the small roof windows, although they looked alright. Replacing the seals cured the leak.

I fitted the adjustable shocks and tbh never touch them, l did try them on the firm setting once, but just ended up at the softest setting. In that position the ride quality is better than standard and it’s great on the road unless you are driving flat out round corners on bad roads, which l never do anyway.

If you want OE you can get a set of new take-off for around £60 You can’t go wrong at that price.

What about the Terrafirma adjustable ones that l recommended? You can alter them according to the type of terrain and they do work very well (on my 2005 110 CSW)

Why not fit OE for £120 all in...they are good springs. Make sure you tell them what model you have (Utility, SW, etc) as they are different rated. For dampers you could go brand new OE take-off from LR Surplus for about £60 all in lf not l recommend the Terrafirma ones as they are adjustable for the type of ride quality that you want. And fit some Disco 2 front spring isolators....every little helps.