Lightning

If you remove the front prop shaft, you will get no drive to the rear one As drive will all be diverted to the output with least resistance

Running costs decrease over time, as the main jobs get done and your spending becomes routine maintenance and repairs. lt will never be as cheap to run as a VW Polo (although if you factor in depreciation, it can actually be cheaper over a longer period of time) When l got my 2005 110 l was initially spending well over £2,000 a year, not including fuel/tax/insurance. But now after four years it’s gone down to £500-1,000. But my Landy is worth about £2,000 more than l paid for it, and if l had bought a new van instead (it was a choice between new VW Caddy or a 8-10 year old Defender) l would be around £10,000 worse off!!

As above, don’t sell unless you absolutely have to. Think about it, say you sold it for £7,000 and bought a used car. After five years the car would be practically worthless, unless you are lucky and buy something collectible. Where your Landy after five years will likely be worth.....£7,000, more if you’ve improved it. A galvanised chassis always adds a fair bit to the value as it addresses the major worry on old Land Rovers, chassis corrosion. l think the silly prices being paid (or asked) for newer ones will come back down to earth , but you’ll always get over £5,000 for a nice Defender TDi/TD5.

Keep it. You won’t get another like that for the money it will likely sell for. The thing is, you fixed the major issues and you know the Landy so are aware of what else is needed. At the moment you won’t get back what you have paid out. But if you keep it, and sort the bodywork, it will only go up in value.

£2,000.....seriously? You say it’s on a galvanised chassis? I would put the value at £6,000, more on a good day. You can’t get one with an MOT for under £5,000 round here. Show me the “similar ones at £2,000” and l’ll hire a flatbed and buy them all.

Ah right my mistake....l didn’t read it properly! Yes it’s unlikely that the manufacturer of the headlining would know that! It would be something you’d need to buy, and then see how it fitted.

The O/P is still active on here so he may be able to update this. However It’s not a good start if the supplier doesn’t know how it fits on to the vehicle.

Thank you both for the advice. I will get on to it at the weekend.

Anything l should know? Does the actuator rod come out with the cylinder or is it attached inside. ls there a chance of it falling into the bellhousing?

Remove the dash panel with the speedometer and other gauges (four screws and it’s off) They are are held in by a large plastic locking ring that you unscrew.

Remember that the Land Rover was made for this kind of task in standard specification, and as long as the vehicle is in a good state of repair when you set off, it will complete the journey with no difficulty.

The string method if done carefully can work very well.

Well if it’s the FRONT wheels that show a 15mm difference then it could just be that your tracking is out. Why not take it into a tyre fitter and get the tracking checked, it will at least eliminate that as an issue.

I can’t see how one rear wheel can be out of line, as it’s a straight forward live axle with no adjustments possible. You could adjust the alignment of the axle but it would alter the other side as well. Unless the offset of the front/rear wheel is somehow incorrect, such as if you fitted a spacer behind the wheel. If the whole axle was located incorrectly (maybe due to accident damage) then it would surely show on the other side as well. But he says the other side is fine.

Well, it’s gone in today for new oil seals and a new nose seal on the front diff as that’s leaking too. l replaced the rear one myself some time ago, but they may as well do it while it’s on the ramps.