Lightning

It might be the DMF, it was on the missus's 90 TD5. It only occurred at lower speeds and in low gears, as with yours. l got a new clutch plus flywheel and after that it was fine.

The studs always shear off the turret rings, every time l've done this job at least one has sheared off.

I fitted one of these last week. When locked it does push the brake pedal just enough to start applying the brakes. When it's laid on the floor the hinged lock part is pretty much flat against the seat box. It all seems to work very well. But l did have trouble getting the lock mechanism to work, l had to leave the spacer washer out from the ratchet mechanism otherwise it was too stiff. lt needed to be installed as far over to the left as possible, to centralize the lock on the brake pedal. I had to cut away a couple of mm from the edge of the transmission tunnel to allow the lock to sit flat on the floor. Also l used Nyloc nuts instead of the shear nuts, in case l ever need to remove it. There's no way on earth you could remove any more than the outermost bolt with it in the locked position. All told the unit fitted very well indeed.

As you have the heat shield off, the easiest thing to do is whip off the spring clip from the actuator rod and see if the wastegate is free to move, rather than trying to force the actuator with a pair of pliers.

I have had this in my Ford van with the tdci engine, if the oil is overdue for a change. After filling with new oil it goes black very quickly. How many miles since your last oil change? You could change the oil again as l did, and it will then look clean for a bit longer. But l don't think it will make much difference to the engine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262917927840 This looks good at under £11,000. Again, always check that it's genuine when on Ebay. But it's a dealer so you could call them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162500317808 Have you looked at TD5? What about this for £11,500? If genuine (don't pay a deposit online or over the phone) it looks like a good deal. TD5's being newer are easier to find in good condition.

I had the same misfire with our 2004 TD5 Defender. One cylinder clearly not firing. There was no oil at the ECU red plug but l changed the injector harness anyway, and it cured the misfire. That was about five months ago and the fault has not recurred. Worth a try, the injector harness is under £30 and is easy to change. And if it does not cure the fault, at least you will know what it isn't.

That's a good result. l was going to suggest you got it checked by a Land Rover Specialist and then get them to do a report.

Well, you paid it so l am guessing somebody else will. Not sure what the going rate is for a restoration project these days.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272039076443 These are what you need, l have them on my 110. They are great because they sit lower than the sill, so are easy to use. l am sure they also do a version for the 90.

The three wire connector is the same as mine. The three speeds will be no resistors, one resistor, and both resistors. So you only need three wires...a common feed, resistor A, and resistor B (which gives A+B)

Most of the sound comes from your front speakers, the rears provide fill in and generally improve the overall effect. Your best bet would be to fit a couple of the LR rear speaker pods that fit in the lower corners at the back. These will take a 5 1/2" two way speaker and will be as good as you need.

Clearly nothing to worry about then! I'll just keep driving it.