highlandmist

Just had the Defender down to the MOT test centre and there's a few things that need to be addressed. 1. Remove, check bulb etc. 2 Surely there's an adjustment screw or two ? 3,4,5. Now this is where it gets interesting for me as it's an area I haven't done anything to apart from replace the power steering pump. Is this just a case of replacing the ball joints, not too sure about this. 6+7 Order this bulkhead outrigger and get my new mate Charlie ( he of spring seat fame ) to weld it all up nice. 8 New bush ? Are they standard size for all shocks? New shocks ? If so will do both sides. Any helpful comments much appreciated. The tester says its in good nick for a 1993 and that I'm obviously a Land Rover enthusiast. Got a head cold right now but that brightened me up a bit.

PlusGas is the one ! I have done the two front wheels now, hub bearings, discs, calipers and pads. Bleeding with a bleed kit tomorrow weather permitting. After applying the magic elixir I managed to remove every bolt with no drama. I also need to top up the swivel housing, both sides dropped some oil when I loosened the top bolts to remove the bracket. May see if local Autoshop has that oneshot stuff.

As promised, heres the holy brake disc I am replacing. Looks like it was done on purpose !

I've also ordered some brake pipe / fittings / flaring tool in case I make an arse of it. I will need to check out this plusgas stuff though.

Remember the song by The Sisters Of Mercy, well this is nothing to do with them. I started on the brake disc / hub / caliper replacement job this morning. I was aware that I might have corrosion issues and I wasn't wrong. First of was the brake hose nut which I actually got moving, then noticed that the pipe was turning with it ! I moved onto the 13mm 12 point bolts on the calipers. Now the easy to get at one didn't look too bad, I could actually see the points and I did manage to free it up after some WD and wire brushing. I applied the same treatment to the other one although at first I couldn't make out any of the points i began to see them. I hammered the socket on anyway making sure it went on right. Alas I was unsuccessful. Feeling some movement and hoping for the best I checked the socket to see that it was just rounding the bolt head More brushing and WD then I hammered on again and got the same result. Wonder if its worth getting a wee blow torch to try heating. I have those "easy out" bolt removers but cant get in aboot because of the suspension spring. Put the wheel back on and went shooting. EDIT : Oh carp I forgot I had those Irwin gripper things, I've also got a 1/2 inch 12 pointer I can try !! Gave up too easy today will try again Wednesday. Need to get new brake pipe + fitting though I reckon.

OK, thanks for the info.

Mmm, just wondering. I ordered the discs and also new hub gaskets and lock washer bu8t now I wonder whether I should have bought new inner hub seals for the new discs. http://www.lrdirect.com/FTC4785-Oil-Seal-Inner-Hub-Ds-Late-90-110/?sfi=ftc4785

Aye got the solid ones. LR direct lost out as they would not ship to highlands. I have had loads of parts from them before including the fuel tank. The weight of both front and rear discs must have rang alarm bells.

In my search for brake parts I was just double checking stuuf on Paddocks with LR Direct. The front discs for my 1993 Defender 90 200 tdi chassis LA933*** Paddocks list FRC7329 but LR Direct say these are for |Defender up to 1991 http://www.paddockspares.com/frc7329sd-paddock-performance-brake-discs-pair-solid-slotted-and-drilled.html http://www.lrdirect.com/FRC7329-Brake-Disc-Fr-90-110-91-Rr-86-90/?sfi=frc7329

Looks OK but I don't see any calipers.

No it looked like it had been done on purpose ! I didn't have my phone with me as it was charging, but it really looked like the hole had been cut. Either that or some sort of isolated failure in the metal ! Just been looking on paddocks. For example theres a whole page of calipers, I need ones for chassis No LA933*** http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-defender/brakes/front-axle.html#___SID=U&p=2 I take it the choice is simply whether I am going to be using vented or non vented discs.

I had a look at the other three corners today and it looks like i should do the whole lot ! The front RH disc had a whole in it, not on the flat part of the disc used for braking but on the bowl part. I have been looking for the parts online but there seems to be a few different kinds, I need to make sure I get compatible discs/calipers/pads for my 1993 Defender 90 200Tdi. I also need the guard that you can just see on the right of my pictures. Now why doesnt some kind supplier do a complete kit ? More googling...

Aye I had the feeling that bit was a wee bit beyond the pressure washer fix. I got a load of docs when I bought it with works done by garages on Skye so coastline and croft type usage seems quite likely. I also live on the coast and drive the fields !

Just before I had to look for a welder for the spring seat I was going to investigate squeeking from the brakes. After our latest offroad trip to celebrate the welding job we also had a constant rubbing noise. After checking underneath for bushes, branches and dead animals I decided it may be brake related so I started to remove the wheels. Knowing it would be the last one I was pleasantly surprised to find a problem on the very first lift. These pictures are taken AFTER I had pushed the pad back in line with the other pad, there has been some deep scarring going on there. Here's another pic. I'm not sure about the level of brake/disc wear or whether some pad fixing has broken. I have only ever worked on mountain bike hydraulic brakes What do you reckon ? Oh, sorry it's dirty again, just going down to clean it now after yesterdays outing.

No there were a two other bits in the same area which he plated. He reckons the rest of the chassis is ok but not great. I hope to make it to the summer without any firther surprises but I will be very attentive to the bits you don't usually see.

Well, its looking a wee bit better now New spring seat and ring now in place and surrounding area attended to. I also fixed my chainsaw this weekend so well chuffed.

Give e a break, its twenty years old and I've only had it a few months. Had a few other more pressing things to sort out was considering chassis work for next summer but its bit me in the bum already

'tis worse than I thought. After finaly getting someone to do it, they looked at it and said the corrosion on the chassis is bad in that area. It will need the axle etc removed and the chassis leg plated. They can't take on such a big job in the workshop they use as it's for other business. Just wondering if I could put the Defender up on axle stands in my driveway, do the stripping down and get someone out to do the welding on site.

No, I don't weld so I'm off to ask some locals who do homers. Pretty sure a guy I used to put cars to years ago does welding. Will let you know how I get on, maybe put a picture up the next time I jack up the front.

Ah, that's good. However I think this job may be beyond me. Looks like there's cutting and welding involved ? Has anyone fitted one before ?

After a recent inspection I noticed the spring seat was broken on the front near side. I found the page here which gives a part number but not getting this on my trusted LR Direct site or many other places ! http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/lr-parts-4481/land-rover-defender-parts-21671/page-14-fullsize.html Item number 12, STC8696

The above solution seems to have lasted well, but the suspected underlying problem cam to a head a couple of weeks ago. On a shooting trip with several people in the vehicle the squeel returned. On returning home I discovered the belt was a wee bit loose again,so a gave it a wee tighten. The next day I was 200m into a drive when there was an almighty squeel from the beasty and then silence. I suspected a catastrophic failure and the heavy steering backed up my suspicion. We stopped along the road to find the PAS pump bearing had collapsed and the spindle was moving freely in any direction. Returning home I enticed £180 of my hard earned from the credit card and a few days later I have fitted a new PAS pump. I hope I have now put an end to this nonsense once and for all !!!!

Just read the post, got a spanner and allen key from work. I had previously removed the rear bolt and used a length of leftover 'breather' tubing to squirt WD40 directly into the recess. Rocked the alternator from left to right, got the mole grips on but even they could not get a permanent grip on the thoroughly dishevelled bolt head. I had to give up again. I had difficulty getting the rear bolt back in and had to get my son to move the alternator in all directions before I caught the thread. Only later on did I wonder if some for and aft rocking rather than the port and starboard I had been using might have given me some leeway. I secured the tensioning strap as tight as I dared and then added an additional small bolt and washer in the strap to help prevent any movement. I have some days off in a couple of weeks to have another go but have also ordered some left hand drill bits and easy outs !! If the hole does go all the way through I should be OK even if I make a balls up and have to drill out, I will just use a long 8mm bolt all the way through.

Had more issues concerning this bolt. Alternator belt went 'missing' the other night while I was out lamping. I suspect that although the bolt head is mashed the bolt is not tight. I tried hammering on a 9mm socket but it too just slips off. Removed the similar bolt to the rear of the alternator and have a wee bit of play. My idea is to pull alternator to the left, attack mole grips to bolt head then lever alternator to the right whilst trying to keep mole grips is same position thus loosening bolt. For access I need to remove the pulley/fins. It appears the spindle has a recess for an allen key which looks BIG and the nut is 22mm but recessed due to the pulley, is ther a bent tool for this ? If I get the pulley off can I get the fins off ?

My first suggestion is a non starter due to the £36 postage cost on one piece of foam ! The farmer's mat was in the vehicle when he got it. Will look into the other suggestions thanks.