highlandmist

I've been having light problems recently and I'm beginning to suspect the stick on the steering column. I'm going to make a seperate post so as not to hijack this one

Thanks, I'll concentrate my efforts there.

My intermittent but mostly active, electrical problem continues. The wipers wipe under the following circumstances: Ignition power on and activating any of the following, headlights, fullbeam flash, left indicator, horn. Nothing else seems to cause it. Does this help with narrowing down the location of the problem ? Checked battery - chassis earth connections and using my jumper leads direct from battery earth to bulkhead. I haven't been able to get a decent multimeter yet but may get one tomorrow.

Couldn't get hold of a real volt meter so used one of the cheapy ones that you can do bulbs and batteries with, don't have a picture handy. Anyway, we have been out doing the pest control over the past few evenings and every time the wiper problem manifested itself. Today I pulled off the black/green connection on the pump, it was rather corroded. I then carried out the test and got a beep. I think this was just a continuity beep as per the apparatus I was using. Anyway, cleaned up the terminals and tried the lights. NO wipers ! As stated before, the problem is sporadic and seems to be able to trick me into thinking its fixed !

I hear you man. Mine passed with the previous owner last year with NO advisories, this time I've went through 1.5 rolls of mig wire and a lot of sweat and tears to get it through.

Aye you're right its purple. What's it for ? I was just out again and the problem has returned even with my temp 'jump lead' earth. I found this detached wing earth and hadn't noticed it before, its on the front offside wind and I cant see a nearby wire it should be joined to. Also here is the other wires I noticed, not connected. Top one is white/red bottom one is green. Doesnt look like they were ever connected they both have some corrosion.

I'll try to do the above test, need to get some wire. Today I ran one of my jump leads from the point on the chassis where the earth comes off and goes to the gearbox along to one of the bolts on the bulkhead. I am not getting the problem however as its intermittent I cannot be sure. Does the Defender usually have an earth lead/strap onto the bulkhead ? If so where should I find it ? Funny Maverick should mention a green/black wire. I saw a disconnected wire a while back which may have been green/black but as everything seemed to be working I didn't attempt to reconnect it. I should also mention that I found a thick pink wire at the back of the vehicle, I will try to get pics up of it.

Removed the bolt and strap and rubbed everything down with sand paper but still getting the problem. This only started after welding patches onto the chassis. There is a cluster of cables which run down the inside of the offside chassis. OK hope I haven't caused heat damage to it !

I didn't have time last night but I am going to have to do it properly today. I picked it up from the test centre today switched on the lights and the wipers came on ! On a brighter note, it passed the MOT, so welding the backrest upright is OK.

It's just the initial one, straight off the battery negative terminal.

Right my lads. Just nipped out and checked. The earth strap connection with the bodywork was a wee bit loose but nothing major. I wiggled the spade back and forth in order to 'gouge' a clean connection then tightened the bolt. It seems to have worked although it was an intermittent problem and so may just be in a behaving mood at the moment. Big day tomorrow, MOT retest, so lets hope she behaves and the seat welding 'upright in normal position' is acceptable.

So I take it that you still cannot move the backrest forward and backward at will and secure it wherever ? It's just secured upright in one position ?

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_620.htm If I read it right then the seat must be able to move for forward and backard. The seat backrest only needs to be: secured in their normal upright position.

Got it out, the wires were attached. I took the button off and the wee bulb inside its blown. Let's hope the local car shop had one.

Thanks guys. My switch isn't illuminating only the trailer tell tale. Can I replace the bulb in the switch ? Also is welding the seat in the back (upright) position for the MOT kosha ? Those two words "earth problem" scare the hell out of me !

Aye right enough. I'm always scared to try too hard in case the shattered bulb fragments end up embedded in my fingers Anyway, went back to the shop and got someone sensible who gave me the wee bulbs. 94p each. Now see my thread on the MOT failure and what I did with the bulbs.

1993 200Tdi Defender 90 This time they said the drivers seat should be able to be secured in the upright position. Now rather than removing the seat and trying to sort the mechanism I intend to weld it in the upright position They also listed the fact that the fog lamp tell tale light didnt work and neither did the hazard warning one although the actual fog lamp and indicators all work as they should. On examination, I think I have some strange electrical problem. I got some new bulbs and after plenty of trial and error I got the fog tell tale going. The hazard operation flashes the tell tale with the pic of the trailer on it ! I thought it would flash the indicator one, is this a problem ? Also in my hour of trial and error the wipers started going on whenever I switched the headlights on. Not everytime but quite often. Anyone else experience this, could it be to do with the bulbs rather than a more sinister loom problem ?

Yes but I thought it was a complete unit, bulb and holder together ? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=galleryℑ=11667

Anyone know where I can get some of those small screw bulbs that tell you if your lights are on etc. For a 1993 Defender. After a few google searches I'm not getting anywhere. My local car shop doesnt have then either.

Nice, concise explanation. A welding we will go...

One of the items on the MOT rust list was an area close to the steering column mounting. After removing two of the column mounting bolts I realise that they were in fact mounted into something more solid. I removed the rusty metal and found a much thicker rail inside, a wee bit rusty but by no means severely corroded. Now I'm wondering whether just to weld a patch over, rivet a patch over, or indeed just hammerite the recess area in order to show the MOT man that there is in fact a decent mounting point there.

I didn't know about a point system. I did wonder why he would 'grass up' a work colleague. Are VOSA able to interrogate the computer records i.e. might they have noticed a the same vehicle having markedly different MOT failures within weeks ? BTW I was not charged for the second MOT.

I went to this place after being told not to go as they were very thorough. I reckon i got the thorough guy the second time. I was a little bit annoyed thinking that I had gotten all the work done though. I was going to attack the rest of the corrosion when the weather improved but will have to get my finger out now. I will take it back to the same place again. At least I didn't get a destruction order

I worked my way through the list I got from the MOT and took it back a few weeks later only to have several more corrosion spots added to the list plus a failed hand brake. The MOT was carried out by another person at the MOT centre who got me to take it back a couple of days later for VOSA to look at because all the things he found were missed by his colleague three weeks before ! Anyway. Looks like I'll be on the grinder / welder again in my spare time for the next couple of weeks.

I have taken a few so far and put them on my blog. Will make up a start to finish post with pics for the forum soon whenever I get a chance to finish it.