highlandmist

I was out shooting a few weeks ago and we used the farmers Defender. We were talking about how noist my 200tdi was compared to his Td5. He then showed me the floor mat in the back, it was really thick and he says if he washes it out and drives around without it then he notices the noise. I only have a wafer thin piece of rubber in the back of mine, in the front there is some not too extensive thin foam covering the bulkhead/bellhousing. I have seen the stuff on the noisekiller site but was just going to get the various bits and bobs for the interior from this site. http://www.keepitquiet.co.uk/acoustic_foam_sa_foam.html I'm going to start with 12mm foam on the floor in the back utilising the exisitng thin rubber mat, the foam and some jointing tape. Then maybe the egg shell stuff on the roof ?

Well, the rain stopped and I removed air filter and turbo hoses to get at it from another angle. Removed the bolt at the back and managed to knock alternator anti clockwise to loosen belt. Dodgy bolt still refused to budge Anyway turned the engine over and there is still a noise !! It appears to be coming from the power steering pump Oh, here is my bolt with lashings of WD40

Unfortunately that is not a picture of my bolt, I just found that on the repairmylandrover site. My bolt head is now a shadow of it's former self ! It was a six point socket that I used though.

OK bagsy first dibs but I need to get this bloody bolt off first to before I go any further. I had a look on the excellent 'Repair my Land Rover' site, my problem bolt is the one in this picture. Only the following pics seem to indicate its a 13mm bolt whereas mine is the same as the ones on the tensioning bar, 10mm. credit this photo to repairmylandrover.co.uk, not highlandmist What I want to know before I remove the air filter and turbo pipes to have a look myself is, does this bolt emerge on the other side of the plate for possible future drilling out !

Well I was looking forward to fitting my newly acquired breather kit today but last night I heard an intermittent grating noise which required further inspection. It appears to be coming from the alternator. To check I decided to take the belt off and run it for a few mins to see if the noise was still present, easier said than done. I loosenes both bolts on the tensioner but the one on the alternator was solid and the socket slipped off a couple of times. No problem, I whips out my 10mm Irwin bolt gripper turbo nutter remover thingy but his is slipping off too ! The bolt head is a shadow of its former self and my Defender is effectively VOR until I get this off and make necessary check. AND IT'S RAINING !!!

Thanks for the guy who had stuff in his garage and the other who was looking at similar fittings at his work, made me wonder... I ended up getting the stuff from the instrument techs at my work

Looking for parts now, need an elbow or two, the tubing and a y piece connector, so is it BSP and do I need a copper washer too ? Gonna try this guy: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/cpmpneumatics/All-Pipes-Tubing-/_i.html?_fsub=2013795011&_sid=936810161&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Recently ? Are you the other one of the two that sold ?

I bought a breather set from this guy who looked kosha, I wanted to fit it this weekend as my rear axle breather is still underneath the vehicle. Unfortunately it never arrived and there has been no reply to my attempted contact. I have had to open a dispute and I'm now looking for a REAL kosha seller for my breather extension Here's the guys page as I couldn't list the item as it had ended with 10 to sell and 2 sold. http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/breathers-r-us/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

Thanks

I read an old thread about these seals but the picture from the link on ebay and the description still didn't look right so I have taken a picture myself. This shows the passenger side one which is still intact, the one I want is for the drivers side where only the rivets remain. 1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi, If anyone has a part number ? Also, anyone know what size the rivets are ?

Aye, removed the relay connector and gave it a wee spruce up, reconnected and all is now fine. Need to re asses now and start a new jobs list

New one fitted and working nicely now, apart from the mediocre low setting. May ask for a forum discounted solenoid when the frosty weather starts again

No problem.

No matter how many jons I get through on the '90 more keep cropping up Just replaced the clutch master cylinder, but that morning I noticed the light for the glow plugs did not come on. I have started it several times since and the light never comes on. I checked the bulb and it's OK. I leave the ignition on and wait for a wee while before starting and it goes OK, although the cold start light flashes. Another 'where do I start fault finding' question.

Nearly had a heart attack there but I think I'm OK. I already ordered part STC4848 before reading your post !! I have done a search on the part you listed and it seems to be the LHD version. I hope I got it right

Had a look today. The intake and fan are lovely and clean. Slider and contacts were full of what looked like spray on grease !! Cleaned it all out an it seemed to work. Put it back together and it wasn't working again. Took it apart once more and found that if I slid it right down and then touched the contact on the slider with a screwdriver the fan came on, any movement would put it off again, so I'm guessing the slider unit and contacts are kaput ! Now, to google for the part number....

Okey dokey, I'll check the fan first, then maybe 'shine up' the contacts before considering the upgrade kit.

Now, I usually have the heater control at 2 because nothing much comes out if I don't. On a coule of occasions, when moving the control up and down I did get a decent flow of air but it's usually mediocre. I'm going to have to start fault finding now so that I can get it sorted for winter. I wonder is it likely to be an electrical thing with the control itself and how can I test this theory ?

Well lads, I finally got around to fitting a genuine land rover belt AND a genuine land rover pulley ! I had difficulty getting the old one off as the belt was slipping badly, I couldn't get my hands on a strap wrench. I ended up getting two bolts loose and then used two screwdrivers in the holes along with a piece of threaded bar to hold the whole thing still. I thought I would have real trouble tightening the bolts when I fitted the new parts, not at all. What a difference in traction, I got the bolts tightened no problem. Pulling out of tight parking spaces is no longer a cringe worthy experience, the squeeling is no more

Worn pump pulley sounds like a difficult one to verify without trying a new one. A genuine LR belt shall be tried and then a pulley if no joy. I was just worried someone might say that the pump is nacked.

A few weeks ago I replaced the alternator and PAS belts as I was getting that slippy belt squeel when turning 90 degrees at low speeds. This was a problem from the day I bought the Defender 200 Td1. I suspected the steering pump but as belts are cheap and I had bigger fish to fry I just replaced both alt and PAS belts. All seemd OK for a few weeks but it's started squeeling again. Closer inspection reveals that when the wheels are locked the PAS pulley can be seen to stop causing the belt to squeel, the tension seems good enough, can only squeeze a cm of slack out of it. I wonder whether I should try more tension ? Just to be clear, I never lock the wheels fully intentionally, the squeeling put me off from the start

I didn't know it was cosha but that's how I was going to do it, thought it would be more practical if I wanted to only have one pair on at any time. May have them both pairs wide with a normal long reg plate in the middle, the current one is in the way of my front offside jacking point. Just took the 8" front lights apart to fit bulbs and they are in a very sorry state, may get binned today.

Aye my diagram is the same, only in a , "What it looks like in my head" kind of way. :-)

My grommets, bulbs and cabling just cost me £56 from vehicle wiring products. I'm going to do the two 8" spots on the A bar first, then next month get a new light bar for the other four.