Quagmire

I can confirm this 100% - I just put an 8:1 Unleaded imperial head from an s3 on the 5mb 2.25 in my 90. Touchwood all is good so far...

I've had the vehicle 9 months. Have no idea who last had it apart. The shells look fine, the crank looks ok- no scores or anything sinister. The engine is nice- the bores look like new, with no scoring and no lip at the top- it looks like it was rebored only comparitively recently (i.e last 5 years). And although the 2.25 does lack a little power for hills, it generally keeps me bumbling about quite nicely. Thanks for the replies, will let you know what happens when it all goes back together.

I had a similar problem on my 90 (with normal bulbs). The indicator on the drivers side glowed very faintly constantly, along with the headlight and the headlight and tail light on the same side flashed when i indicated . In the end all i did was to remove and clean the earth for the front lights and my problem was solved. I dont know how the earth being dirty at the front end made my lights go wonky like that- i would have thought they would have just packed in completely or been very dim.

Hi, I have a 2.25p 90, which developed a nasty clonking noise from the engine last week. I stopped pretty much straight away and the landy was towed back for examination. The noise seemed to be coming from the rear of the engine at the head and first thoughts that unleaded fuel in a leaded head combined with continuous high revs (i do lots of motorway miles) had killed the top end. However on inspection there was nothing found in the head that would account for the noise, so we dropped the sump and had a look. The big end on number 4 had some play. This was examined and we found no unusual wear, BUT when i undid it it seemed a little on the loose side . It was decided to reassemble it and torque it up properly and see if this made a difference and it has. No more play. The others were checked for tightness and although they were all slighty under the book figure none was as loose as this one. Has anyone seen this before where parts have come loose? The workshop manual does not mention loctite or any other method of preventing parts coming undone... Finally, can i replace the shells on this cylinder without getting any machining done, and if so would it be a good idea as a precaution? I have not checked for ovality but considering the state of wear on the bearings i dont believe that i would find it out of tolerance. Thanks Jamie

I bought one of those electronic dizzys for my 2.25 90 and am very happy with it. My main reasons were to have the vehicle not lose its state of tune and hence save me a bit of time and (hopefully) some money. So far it has been great (had it about 6 months) and i do about 400miles a week. The thing has kept its tune, the engine runs sweetly and starts on the button. I previously had a Velleman transistor assisted ignition kit fitted, and still have one on my s2. I thoroughly recommend these. The electronic dizzy gives about the same performance as when the velleman was fitted, so slightly better than standard. My fuel consumption has gone from 17mpg with standard dizzy and mech fan, to 21mpg with electronic dizzy and kenlowe. I do however now drive at 60 rather than 70 which has contributed to the savings. Either way is good, but i am just lazy so thought i'd eliminate points altogether, and hence the need to change or adjust them.

My 1984 90 does this too! So i am also interested to know... Works fine until halfway, then over the next division the needle hardly moves at all. Usually run out with 1/4 left on the gauge, not even in red. My warning light does not illuminate though. What i do is use the trip counter, i know that a full tank gives me about 215miles ish. (works out at around 19mpg i think) I also keep a can of fuel in the back but try to fill up before i get to running on vapour, easier said than done as it gets there so quick

Hello all, The pic posted by Hybrid was taken by me and is of my truck. The welding was all done out in the elements (garage too full of old LR bits to use as intended ), in the cold and mostly under a floodlight in the dark (as you can see from the copy of my photo that has been put up). The plates were all 3mm thick, and let in with a beveled edge so that the weld would fill and penetrate the joint rather than perch on top of it. I thought it all went rather well neither of us are welders so we never professed to have the prettiest welds. Having said that the welds are easily strong enough. And, although i realise that you probably dont think MOT guys know much about welding or LRs in general, our local chap who passed the vehicle (and is a classic RaRo nut) said that we had done a good job. I always thought that letting in a plate flush would be better as if you plate over something you put the joint into shear when it is compressed/ extended, rather than the material reacting as if it was a 'normal' unrepaired section. As my brother said, new member was put on to replace a replacement that had been put on many moons ago rather badly. We do normally jig the chassis by tacking on a couple of bits of angle iron but it was pretty pointless in this case. To me the main point of all this is that I now have a 90 which is totally solid and not about to fall apart, does not have a chassis full of glass fibre and bodyfiller, and which (hopefully) will keep me rovering for a good many years to come. Thanks to Meccano for all his help with the project, and to Neil for the kind comments. Goodluck to mrw90 with the replacement.