Quagmire

Had more of a look at the problem last night and although the switch was broken (and no doubt the bits are now somewhere in the box) the actual problem was that the reverse plunger was seized. Totally and utterly. Was full of water and the ball bearing was pretty shot. Luckily i had an identical plunger unit on a spare box i have...

Just clean the axle case around them like you would with any gearbox filler or whatever, then undo the bolt and clean the bolt and banjo fitting, I just gave them a squirt of WD40 and blew them through with compressed air... Ensure the actual breather pipe is clear as well...

I dont own a disco so cannot say for sure - i lurk in this section for interesting reading on v8's but... If a Disco is like any other rover you will have nothing to plug on the axle. You should however have some breathers, which will come off the top of the axle casings and go somewhere nice and high. On my 90 the front axle goes to the engine bay, the rear axle goes up to where the brake lights are. You shouldnt need to do anything to these, but if the pipe is missing and you want to do some wading then you could do with replacing the pipe (i have some blue nylon tubing on mine that i got out of my dads garage) and routing the end somewhere out of the reach of water. These breathers stop water being sucked in when the warm axle casing is plunged into cold water and causes the air in the case to contract, sucking in whatever it happens to be submerged in. There are similar breathers on both the gearbox and transfer. Mine route forward and are attached to the bulkhead. You might want to check that they work too, my axle breathers were full of that horrible oily grime that seems to cover everything. Totally blocked. I didnt notice until my rear passenger hub started throwing oil out...

Bit harsh methinks. *Dons asbestos suit*

Thanks Western, i'll check it out tonight

Just went out and checked it. The end of the reverse switch is smashed, and i'm assuming that the rest of it is in the selector mech somewhere stopping me getting through the gate somehow. I never checked the switch was setup correctly when i changed the box, and it must have been wound too far in. So check your switch is only wound in far enough to do the job...

I am getting around 20mpg (petrol) in my 90 with a newly rebuilt 3.5 running SU's. 99% of my mileage is Motorway cruising. My old 2.25 used to return about 22mpg, driving at 60. I reckon the v8 can be more frugal if i use less loud pedal- but with the conversion only being completed 3 weeks ago i am still getting used to the novelty and the sound On the 4cyl i used to get around 17-18mpg on gas. This saved me lots of cash, as i drive 70 miles a day commuting to and from work... I guesss LPG is for some and not for others! If i can attain a similar consumption difference with the gas as i have so far managed with the petrol i will be very happy. I have three filling stations near me so I may as well use it. It also keeps the oil cleaner- important for the life of a v8... I record all my mileage and fill ups in a little book i keep in the car, so my figures for the 2.25 are an average over months of driving and thousands of miles. I just hope that the average i have attained so far with the 3.5 is set to continue...

Ok have just done some searching, and seems that the reverse light switch may stop me getting through the gate. I know what i'll be doing at lunchtime... Any ideas if that isnt it? Thanks!

Right, so the story is like this. Got home last night from work, parked as per usual no problem. Got out to the car this morning to find i had (unusually for me) left it in gear- reverse actually. Whacked it into neutral and started up, moved forward and then went to select reverse. No reverse... Tried again and again, its like there isn't even a reverse gate anymore. Any suggestions on what to look at? Its sitting outside the office at the mo having been pushed backwards into a space. Unluckily for me the car park is dead flat so no option of parking nose in and then rolling out... Anyone got any ideas for what i should look at? I'm hoping its just some kind of selector fault. I know nothing about gearboxes... Cheers

Guys, Now that i have my 3.5 up and running in the 90, I want to go Megajolt 'n' EDIS. Before everyone starts chiming in "go megasquirt" The 3.5 is on SU's and i will be running singlepoint LPG when i get it reinstalled... (Switchable maps?) Anyways, back to the main question... Where is the cheapest place to get hold of an EDIS8 controller? Was planning on getting the coilpacks and sensor from a scrappy. Have looked on the US version of our favourite auction site and can only see full kits listed with wheels (that i assume wont fit without modification?) Any pointers would be appreciated. Ta!

They'll either be HIF44's or the imperial equivalents HIF6's i think. My HIF6's were on a rover P6 engine.

Best thing i did to improve the heater was fit a v8- some might think this a bit drastic though!

LPG actually burns more slowly so you will need to have the timing advanced further than you would have on petrol. Best solution is to fit Megajolt and have two switchable maps, or use one of those little boxes that advances the Dizzy timing when you switch (have heard mixed reports on these but cant comment myself). Alternatively if you dont run on petrol too much you will need to advance the Dizzy so that when running on Petrol you *just* get pinking under load. I had my 2.25 setup this way and LPG worked well. I did however have to drive around the pinking when on petrol if you know what i mean.

Guys, After converting my 90 from 2.25 to 3.5 my vapouriser in its old postion would have been too close to the drivers side exhaust manifold, and so i have taken it out. I therefore need to move the vap unit and it is going to end up much further forward and on the opposite side of the engine bay, which will require a longer pipe run from the tank. My question is this- for a certified LPG installation are you allowed to have the pipe joined at all, or does it have to be one continuous run with no joins? Thanks

If its the same as the 2.25 in the 90 it'll be a cable for you to yank when required.

Is there any trailer that you legally tow at 70 anyway?

I think you can collect your car parts afterwards from the keepers. My girfiriend and I have been through twice in her polo (the 90 has a ragtop so can't go in) and suffered no damage- the key is to keep moving! Watch out for silly people stopping on both sides of the road stopping you getting through and allowing Monkey carnage to ensue. We saw one in front of us hanging upside down from a ford focus' rear wiper by his feet and furiously jabbing the button to open the boot... Clever monkeys!

Think of a plane wing, the air travels further and therefore faster over the top of the wing which causes lift. The air in you engine bay would be going slower than that over the bonnet i would imagine, and so would go out through the bonnet holes... Could be wrong tho- flame suit on

Max- i'm jealous, i didn't get my first landrover until i was 16 or 17! I'd run on unleaded and start saving for a new head. I have run my series 2 on unleaaded for years now with no issues even though it was my daily drive for about 5 years! As long as you aren't doing massive motorway miles or anything involving sustained high revs all the time you should be fine. Have fun, i knew nothing aboout cars when i started and now nothing scares me (except diesels hehe)

"Tdi or TD5, whats better in your eyes?" I'm sure if you got either in your eyes it wouldn't be good....

Try a 90 with a 2.25!! wouldn't say my fuel consumption was scary but i know what you mean about the power, i can do any legal speed but getting there can take some time. I get about 21.6mpg (mtorway) on mine after sorting everything out, try as fridgefreezer says and make sure nothing is out of whack on the tuning first. Having said that I'm dropping a 3.5 in mine in....2.5 weeks time. eeeek!! Will be worth it though!

I will be doing this too in a couple of weeks- I will have replaced cam, lifters, and complete rocker assemblies, will find out this weekend if i need to do anything about the pistons, crank etc. I too have rebuilt the SU's so am worried about putting an engine together and expecting it to actually run continuously from the first turn of the key! Useful link for carbs, i found this while googling around. If mods are not happy linking to this then feel free to take down. Rapidshare download Aren't you supposed to keep the revs below 1000 for 15secs or something on very first start so that you don't trash the rear crankseal?

My series2 gives around 23mpg... thats with everything standard but in top nick and no front prop. That compares to my 2.25 90 that did around 15-17 mpg when i got it but now does around 21mpg on a good day. I reckon 28 is achievable with those mods and a light right foot, the hardest bit to do must be the foot though!

My s2 has been through numerous MOT's with no front prop with no issues. I used it as my daily driver for 7 years and so drove most of the time with it removed to save fuel. Was a pain having to put it back on to go offroading though.

Why is a v8 not an option with LPG?