neil00001

Thanks folks for you comments, I had also read many posts about the fork giving up the ghost, The new fork is so well armoured, 3 Armourd Division (UK) would be proud. I really wouldnt wont to go thru that job again in a hurry!!!! Cheers, Neil

This happened 3 days into summer holiday, Luckily just 10 minutes before hand I drove past 4x4 service in Valkenburg, Holland. They stored my car until I could recover it back home 2 days later, only 40km's away. Armed with a spare master & slave cylinder and a new fork. My car was back on the road 2 days later. PITA, next time I will take the transfere box off. Thanks to this forum, the job was made alot easier!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, Neil

I picked up some spares won (eblag) from a guy in Derbyshire, he had a Chevy 6.3 V8 Diesel in his 90, not sure if it was a turbo though. IIRC he had standard axles and gearbox and quite proud that he hadn't destroyed them during some of the antics he had got upto. He had a spare engine in case he blew it up but decided to sell it as the Chevy motor is mega reliable. Cheers, Neil

Added the K-Seal and it seems to of cured the water loss so far, Thanks Les!

Well thats worth a shot, I don't normally do "cure all" potions, but for the sake of a tenner + P&P, Anyone used this stuff before and did it work? I cannot find the damned leak anywhere Les thanks for the heads up on K-seal Cheers, Neil

Replaced the 2 plastic plugs with Brass, top of stat now houses the temp sender for the madman multi gauge, but haven't replaced the pressure cap...........yet. will try that next Dave Cheers Neil

Viscous fan is fine, but that wouldn't alone explain the loss of coolant, but thanks for your input anyway Cheers, Neil

Hi Folks, I need some advice on my 300TDI engine, after about 100-150 miles of motorway driving 70mph, I lose all but most of the coolant in the header tank. Before this I replaced the waterpump and P gasket, then the radiator, pump was squeeling and the radiator was shot, thermostat was also replaced. Car comes upto temp fine goes to about 90 degresst then falls back to 87 sat at 70, but I lose coolant, if I just bimble around the city no coolant loss. Also noticed that if I stick to about 55-60mph no percievable loss..... Cant seem to find any decernable coolant loss/stains on any of the pipe work or around the water pump. Where do I look next? head gasket???? Cheers, Neil

Wonder where UKE80 is now, Great pic of two of Britain's finest. Cheers

Hi Ashley, Last time I was in the UK, I was lucky enough to find some second hand ones by http://www.4xfortyone.co.uk/ Didnt cost alot and they do mail order HTH

Whooo hoooooo !!!! Ok Finally managed to sort out the interior lights, Binacle off, door switches out, interoir light out and trace wires. All the wires came to an unconnected grey connector behind the binacle. Purple blue to Interior light White grey to the driver door White black to the passenger door. Connect all three togeather and hey presto all 5 doors work the 2 Interior lights. Again thanks to the forum !!!! Cheers,

Hi Steve, You are right there matey, no matter what measures we take, if thieves want our cars they will take them, but if I can cut down on an opertunist thief it will give me some piece of mind. The best security I have found so far is my two big dogs patrolling my garden.. Cheers, Neil

Hi All, OK the upshot is my car was broken into the other day and our SatNav was stolen, our own fault as it was left on display. We all know how weak the security is on the Defender, but do people actually know how easy our cars are broken into? Before my car was broken into, I would of thought a thief would unlock the driver door with a teaspoon, now that I have seen how easy it really is, even on a very busy shopping street, I reckon about 5 seconds! As this is quite a sensative subject I cannot put the details of the intrusion or the solution on this forum for obvious reasons, After taking advice from Ralph (Western) if any member is interested in the "solution" you can PM me. Aslong as you pass the forum Secret Service vetting then all wil be explained free of charge. Cheers,

Well I gave it a go, The dry run, took the 40% rear seat out of the disco and put it in the 110. Wedged it up on tool boxes to about the right height and in line with the other seat. I didn't like it at all. You will get a huge hole where the wheel wells are on the disco, no doubt these can be filled. I think the best case for me is to find a recent rear seat that has the 3 x 3 point seat belts, erm baby Nr 5 on the way. There was someone that has done the same on this forum but I cant find the post/link !!!!! Found it now ta http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic330.html Thanks again,

Thanks Mo I will give it a go as I have a spare Disco on my driveway, I have a list as long as my arm of little things that need doing, (same as everyone else I guess) Including the EGT kit that has just arrived from RSA Cheers

Any help would be appreciated!!!!! Cheers

Hi All, I am sure I have read that the 2nd row seats from a Disco will make a good substitute for the half seats that were fitted to the 110 CSW...but cant find anything related Is this true or was it only the RRC seats that fitted? If so, is it an easy swap? I have a 1993 Disco sat here doing nothing and 110 CSW with the 3 seperate 2nd row half seats which my kids hate. Eventually I would like to swap to 3 highbacks but having spent my pocket money buying spares on a recent trip to the UK, they will have to wait a while............. Cheers, Neil

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics Michael. Cheers Neil

Thanks Folks for your replies. The pics, discriptions and diagrams will help a great deal !!!!! Cheers

Hi all, I have searched most of the forum looking for diagrams and pictures of self made sliders. Unfortunately I have not found much that I can use for a 110, plenty for a 90 mind..... What is the best size box section to use, 60x60 / 80x50 / ??? These have been mentioned but which wall thickness? How will it mount to the chassis? Front and rear outriggers and a central leg to the chassis rail? OK I may be answering my own questions but would really like some advice from those that have either made or fitted their own Rock/Tree sliders. Thanks

Thanks all for your replies, The part numbers I mentioned came from Paddocks (16,50 +VAT) but they also cross reference with Bearmach, so they should be the same ???.........dont really want to buy a couple of kgs of cheese Cheers

Did I ask a dumb question????

Or I could come with you to the UK at the end of the week.....LOL Cheers

Hi All, Have discovered that my half shafts are on the way out, so my question is: Are all Salisbury half shafts the same apart from one side is shorter than the other. I have seen part numbers, are these correct for my axle FTC1724 - Axle Shaft RH FTC1725 - Axle Shaft LH Need to replace flanges at the same time? Cheers

Dave, Thanks for the info and the time taken to write up, Looks like I will be rewiring the lights in the next couple of days, or at least correcting the bodges made by the last owner. Yellow, cant find a 3 way switch under the dashboard, but it wouldn't surprise me to be honest, have you still got some bits of RHD dashboard? Thanks again for the help all !! Cheers