[V8 90 won't start.]

It's running 😁, timing was way off.

Just a small electrical fault, check cooling and get it MOTd by Tuesday, oh and check the handbrake cable...

 

Once again thank you all for your help.

My next thread will hopefully be more light hearted about an engine/gearbox swap but that can wait a while.

 

Thank you.

[V8 90 won't start.]

Here's what's happening now.

 

I would just like to say a big thank you for the input so far.

[V8 90 won't start.]

2 hours ago, Snagger said:

I’ll wager your handbrake cable is now wrecked.  When the engine earth strap is poor, the starter tries to earth through the hand brake cable and melts its Teflon coating, seizing it to the outer sheath.  Expect to need a new cable.  It’s worth having a decent quality earth cable from engine or transmission casing directly to the battery as the exposed braided straps are prone to corrosion and dirt.

I'll get him to check it.

[V8 90 won't start.]

Just had a message from him.

No spark at the plugs but is from the coil, it also backfires as he tries to start it.

 

 

 

[V8 90 won't start.]

 

So weirdly enough, it was running fine until I went to do the thermostat, which started this tale of woe.

Anyway, taking the starter motor, we found the earth strap wasn't connected to the chassis. 

 

I'm at work, so my eldest son is working on it.

So new starter is on and earth strap reconnected, others checked.

It won't start, so he's going to get it to tdc and realign the distributor.

Fingers crossed.

 

 

 

[Power Steering box replacement options?]

I might give that a go.

I replaced my steering box (Adwest) a few years ago, probably about 6 years, the 90 has probably done about 6000 miles in that time but it started leaking a couple of years ago, lack of use probably. 

 

[V8 90 won't start.]

Well, not sure if it's part of the problem or just a victim of my sense of humour failure yesterday but today it wouldn't even attempt to turn over.

After a carefull look round, we have found the solenoid/starter moter is toast, that's whatthe burning smell was.🤦‍♂️

So in keeping with her usual stubborn self, the lower allen bolt will not move, long bar/impact gun won't touch it.

So going to trying an extraction tool tomorrow, if not we'll cut the head of the bolt off and go from there.

[V8 90 won't start.]

1 hour ago, Escape said:

Did you have the distributor off when you did the manifold? If so, double check all is correct there. If the timing is off, you can have cilinders firing against the starter motor, causing slow crank and (obviously) not starting.

Yes, I did.

I am going out to have a look at it in a little while, I'm going to start by checking I haven't missed/damaged an earth lead and then I'll check the distributor. 

Didn't even cross my mind it could be that.

Thank you

[V8 90 won't start.]

47 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Quite possible a bad connection to starter or bad/missing engine earth strap. Last resort is failed starter, but check cheap things first. 

I haven't removed any earth straps and was starting fine until it came off the road in April but obviously it is something I will check tomorrow. 

 

49 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

What other work has happened recently? Anything electrical? 

Earlier in the year we replaced the ignition switch as you had to have the key in exactly the right place or nothing would happen. 

At the same time we replaced the indicator stalk as it was getting very floppy especially the high beam flash.

A few days before it came off the road the lights started playing up, lights on, indicators and brake lights wouldn't work but fine with lights off.

Again is something to be checked/ sorted for mot - possible earth issue but car was running and starting fine.

Fitted the raised air intake whilst waiting for the new battery to arrive. 

It's a new old stock Southdown through wing, there is a slight chance I have damaged some wiring but the starting problem already existed. 

57 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

P. S. Don't keep cranking when there is clearly something wrong, you will just damage something even more

I knew this but was having a tantrum...lol

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply.😁

[V8 90 won't start.]

Latest installment. 

Tried cranking for about 20 seconds or so, popped the bonnet and a puff of smoke appeared from the area by the brake master cylinder. 

So battery disconnected and I will be having a good look at the wiring in that area and behind the instruments in the morning. 

Getting a little frustrated now, lol, as we are supposed to be going to Billings in just over a weeks time...🥴 oh and it needs an mot as that's just expired..🤣

[V8 90 won't start.]

Battery is fine, checked it and got it on charge to replace what I have used cranking.

[V8 90 won't start.]

Hopefully this gives you an idea.

[V8 90 won't start.]

Yes, struggles then stops, then the same again when you try again. 

I'm wondering about a bad earth.

[V8 90 won't start.]

Long story.

A couple of months ago, the 90 (V8 3.9 efi) was running fine but would overheat.

The rad is only a year old, electric fans working, all hoses have been replaced over the last 3 or 4 years or less.

So last thing was the thermostat and cap on the expansion bottle. 

Upon removing the thermostat, a bolt snapped, tried welding nuts on, thread removal tools, no luck.

So a good second hand intake manifold was sourced.

Due to work and family commitments, it's taken a couple of months to fix.

Now the bloody thing won't start, it sounds like a flat battey but the battery is brand new.

It had a new ignition switch a few weeks before it came off the road and was starting/ running fine.

So any ideas?

[Snapped bolt Rover V8]

Thanks for the replies.

I remember about the acetone and atf, I'll have to raid my darling wife's nail varnish remover.😉

The reason I was going for welding the nut on, was there's probably enough thread to wind it on  few turns but being bored I had ago with mole grips, so probably no thread left now.🤣

Somewhere I have some Duckoil, so may give that a go over the weekend if I can find it.

I really hope I don't have to resort to a machine shop...😥

Working tomorrow but my son is off so hopefully he will return my mig as he's taken it to his unit.

 

Anyway once again, thank you.

[Snapped bolt Rover V8]

So, I've managed to snap one of the thermostat housing bolts on my 90.

It's left enough thread to screw a nut on and weld it on.

I have put some wd40 on it and plan to weld the nut on tomorrow, hopefully the wd40, the heat and the nut will be enough to undo it.

Any other suggestions before I make things worse?🤣

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

On 8/13/2023 at 6:42 PM, ped said:

i fitted a tim gauge and sender to my 110 v8 and swapped out the std gauge in my other 110 that i've put a 300 in for a generic gauge in degrees from evilbay
i did do a quick test in hot water to see how it t read and all seemed about right to a digital thermometer

I take it the sender is 1/8 NPT?

 

Sorry for the late reply, work has been hectic over the last few weeks.

 

 

I purchased a TIM temperature gauge with sender and didn't require an adapter,  just screwed right in.

The gauge seems to be sitting at about 80°on a short warm up.

Got the day off tomorrow, so eill take it for a quick run.

On a side not, not paying attention, pulled the ECU sender out by mistake, as I unplugged it, on of the wires snapped,  so that now has new connectors on it too.

 

Fingers crossed that's the end of that saga, just a couple of minor jobs at the weekend ready for the 140 mile trip to the LRO Show.

 

I know I have been rather absent from my own thread but I have really appreciated the advice given by you guys...🙂🙏

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

On 8/13/2023 at 6:42 PM, ped said:

i fitted a tim gauge and sender to my 110 v8 and swapped out the std gauge in my other 110 that i've put a 300 in for a generic gauge in degrees from evilbay
i did do a quick test in hot water to see how it t read and all seemed about right to a digital thermometer

I take it the sender is 1/8 NPT?

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

On 8/13/2023 at 6:42 PM, ped said:

i fitted a tim gauge and sender to my 110 v8 and swapped out the std gauge in my other 110 that i've put a 300 in for a generic gauge in degrees from evilbay
i did do a quick test in hot water to see how it t read and all seemed about right to a digital thermometer

Thanks, will have a look...👍

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

After months of procrastination, finally had a proper look.

Earth behind the clocks appears to be good according to my circuit tester.

Unplugging the sensor does nothing to change the actions of the temp gauge and as far as I could see, the wiring is fine.

When the ignition was left on, the gauge would go from cold to off the scale and then slowly sink down before climbing back of the chart.

So my conclusion using the above advice is to order a new gauge as I want this sorted before the LRO show as it's a above 140 miles each way.

 

Thank you for all your input.

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

On 4/22/2023 at 6:18 PM, Peaklander said:

Is the fuel gauge working OK? Just wondering about 0V / earth connections.

Yes, it's fine.

 

The test drive showed no movement from the temp gauge even when hot.

So gone from red hot with ignition on to nothing.

Unfortunately due to work, not going to get a chance to look at it for a couple of weeks. 

 

I'll report back. 😁

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

Well, just been out and turned the ignition on.

No movement from the guage, so going to take her for a test drive later and see what the guage does.

Thinking about adding a totally stand alone guage and in hose sensor as a back up regardless of what I have to do to the original.

 

Also wondering about a separate engine monitoring system as water temp is the only way I currently have of monitoring the engine.

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

Haven't had time to touch it, so having a quick look now.

Have bought a new stat to fit as I am going to replace a couple of hoses when I have the plenum chamber off soon.

I appreciate all the replies and will be back with the results...😁

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

13 minutes ago, steve b said:

If this is happening I'd check the wire from the sender back to where it enters the wrapped main loom for bare copper - full deflection on the gauge is equivalent to earthing the wire. 

If nothing is found then take the dash panel out enough to remove the sender wire from the back of the gauge and try it again.

No gauge movement = faulty sender wire and gauge still in red = bad gauge. 

Buy a cheap laser thermometer to keep in the dash/cubby box to get a more accurate reading.

 

Steve 

I have a laser thermometer, that's how I know the engine isn't overheating, as I checked when I got home from the mot test.

Will go and check the wiring.

55 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Is the current temp sender a 200TDI? i.e. is it matched? I'm not100%, but I think the V8 senders are not the same as TDI so won't ever read correctly.

Not sure, not had a problem until recently. 

The conversation was done nearly 20 years ago by Frogs Island. 

From what I can see there are two senders, one is identfor the v8 and 300tdi, the other I think is different, but I didn't realise there were two until a little while ago.

 

 

Thank you

[Faulty temperature gauge.]

To be honest, didn't notice the gauge reading hot until I  replaced the rad last summer.

The conversation was done nearly 20 years ago.

 

I will check the earths once it's stopped raining...

Should have been the first thing I checked...lol

 

Thank you.