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landrovermanuk

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Posts posted by landrovermanuk

  1. Sorry if this has been done before but i couldn't find anything....

    I've got a 3.9efi and auto box from a 94 disco in my 90.

    The gear lever doesn't line up with the markings on the surround. If the box is in Drive the selector says Neutral...etc

    It will not go into Park far enough to engage park in the gearbox and will not allow the 90 to start...

    I am thinking that the cable from the selector to the gearbox has stretched but can't find anything changing/adjusting this cable...

    This problem occurred over a short time...

    Any ideas???

    Thanks John

  2. That sounds kind of cool! Unfortunately, I don't have a stock of Dynamite to try it with! (Probably for the best, thinking about it)

    Si

    I think it was Australia.... Our rules on explosives are a little bit of a spoiler for home experiments...lol

  3. Somebody used to make boat hulls by digging a hull shaped hole in the ground. Weld some ally plates together in a rough hull shape. Drop it in the hole fill it with water then dropped a stick of dynamite in it. The resulting explosion finished the shape....

  4. According to this months LRO Land Rover are doing away with the low box on most of their products, just having an ultra low first gear.... Looks like the start of a slippery slope. It looks like it won't be long before the only off roaders Land Rover make will be made abroad... or is it that the mags are so far a head it's the April 1st joke?

  5. Thermostat is in. Now I do have an air lock...lol I've cleaned all the plugs, which were very fouled That was caused by the rough running. When I warmed it up to try and get the air lock out it ran well. So once I've got it cleared I'll try a test run...Look's like I know what I'm doing tomorrow...

    Thanks for the advice.... John

  6. Thanks, I'll give the thermostat a try.

    As there wasn't loads of steam coming out of the exhaust I was working on the theory that the head gaskets were ok(no water in the oil or oil in the water that I could see).

    I think it could well be an air lock as I've looked at the inside of the metal pipe I've taken off and there is a little rust in it. Late summer last year I put a new heater in, plus a/freeze and the heater worked really well so didn't think I had an air lock but it's looking likely.

    So I'll be investing in some water pipe, hose clips and a thermostat in the morning...

    I must admit I was rather pi55ed thinking I'd cured all my problems to find it still running rough... I'll sort the water problem first then maybe just take it to my L/R man....

    I'm starting to get fed up with L/Rs already this year and I've got a Series 3 that needs a ground up rebuild....lol

    Thanks for the help the earlier post was written in a rush so didn't know if it made sense...

    John

  7. I've been having problems with the 3.9efi in my 90. For months it has been running rough, stalling, spluttering etc. I've replaced the coil, dizzy, cap and rotor arm, spent money at the local L/R garage, still no improvement.

    I decided to start at the beginning and change the fuel filter which isn't that old. So go to change the filter and find a big split in the fuel pipe. So replace the pipe and it starts running a lot better.

    I take it out for a test drive but it's running quite right. Under acceleration it's not got full power. It feels like it's running on 7 not 8.

    I get home pop the bonnet and notice that there doesn't feel like there's any water in the top hose. I then notice that a short hose from the inlet manifold to the metal pipe that leads to the heater has swollen in the middle and the hose clips are all cruddy. I open the expansion bottle, it's got water in, so has the rad and when I take the short hose off the engine has water in. So it looks like it's just the top hose and heater hoses has no water in...

    So I'm replacing any old looking hoses and clips.... But does it sound like a head gasket? Rough running and water loss or just a small leak and air lock? I think the engine has less than 80K on it...

    Thanks for any tips or advice.... All the best John...

  8. I love this idea. I've got S3 88" in bits and am planning to start rebuilding it later this year. I was thinking of going for a 200tdi for a little more power and a lot more mpg. The only problem is I need to drive it into London once in a while and the LEZ was going to be a problem, unless I could get it changed to a station wagon on the V5. This appears to solve that problem... Power and economy.... What's not to love... So now to start looking for t16 or mpi engine.... Cheers John

  9. I'm sure they can come up with a replacement that comes in body sections I.E. front panel through to B pillar then add a back bulk head and pick up body, or add a station wagon body with rear doors...You would tick the box and a corresponding section would be picked and put on to the production line. So it would have the versatility of the currant defender but with lower build costs. It would then still appeal to military and governments as well as individuals... For £50, a night in a premier inn and a bacon sarnie with unlimited coffee I'd go up and show LR my napkin drawings....

  10. I know that this is a bit of an old post but here goes. I use Ray Harvey in Rayleigh. He knows his stuff and is a fair and honest man. I was told I needed a new steering box, so went and got a second hand unit, took it back to the garage to find it had shut down. I went to Ray and asked him to fit the box. He came out looked at the steering and said see that nut tighten it up and you be fixed. I did as he said and it was fixed. Now I'm sure some garages would have taken the money and changed the box. Ray has saved my arse a few times since then. I have nothing to do with Ray other than as a satisfied customer who is happy to recomend him and his staff... Hope this helps... John

  11. When you are turning the engine over, if the fan is in the way from the top, try turning the engine over from underneath a little at a time until you get to TDC. You keep having to stop and look, but it works. I do this on my RRC sometimes.

    I've looked at this I don't think there is enough room between the pully and the fan to get the socket on...I'm trying to get hold of a strobe gun for the morning.... I just hope it's something simple.... Thanks for the reply

  12. I'm thinking of trying the local garages in the morning. I know the two closest only do MOTs on saturdays. So got to try further afield. I've tried adjusting the dwell angle. It either runs or it doesn't, I just can't seem to get that final bit to make it run sweetly. I've plenty of room so it's not that. I've heard that you can get a diode that you plug into the Lambda sensor wire so the ecu thinks it's working fine then you can remove the catylist. Don't know where to get one or how much though..

  13. Right just got back. Might be running a little rich as there was a bit of a petrol smell from the exhaust, or could be petrol in the exhaust from all attempts to start her earlier. Out on the road there was a bit of a misfire under acceleration and she was hunting at the lights. Once up to 30 to 40 mph she ran fine. I only took her just over 1/2 mile to get some petrol, then half mile back. The fuel filter is a couple of years old but doubt it's that, can't think of anything else... Land Rovers you got to love them...

  14. Sorry Andy missed your reply. I'm in Thundersley. That's a very kind offer. I'm going for a test run in a minute now the roads are a bit quieter. So fingers crossed. I really need her running smoothly by lunch tomorrow as I've got an outing planned... I've got a back up car if worse comes to worse but it's not a Land Rover so boring...lol

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