jerboa

Hmm.. the only problem with fuel cut off valves etc is that it runs pretty much solely on LPG (there isn't any fuel in the tank) so I cant mess with the LPG system without blowing my self to pieces. But I can switch the LPG/Petrol switch to petrol and they can try their best. HT leads on the steering wheel? Nice, I like it.. The idea of fitting a valve to the clutch line is of interest, though that would render the "leaving it in gear when you park in case the handbrake slips" usless. Unless it was set up in such a manner that pressing the pedal wouldn't operate the clutch?? What kind of valve?? I was thinking the other day, not seriously I should point out (after watching this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S1CZ08w4H4) an airbag built in to the seat and triggered via remote control would be great.

Hi there guys, after a run of coil sprung landy's, I took the plunge and bought my self a Series Three Station Wagon. 1981 109" 4 cyl petrol, I'm very happy with it. I'm fortunate enough to not have to use it as my primary means of transport.. The reason I bought a series three is this: I have had two Disco's nicked/robbed off me. Once out side my house (locked/immobilized/stop-locked) and still the sods took it, at 10:30pm!! Second at gun point in the Sahara, another story.. I figured a series three (or it's parts), though perhaps easier to take than a 90/110/Defender, is ultimately less sell-able in-terms of black-market desirability sop would be less prone to being pilfered. My question is this, what measures are deemed as adequate in order to prevent theft i.e. what do the forum members do to theirs to stop them from being taken? I'm well aware that if some one wants something, THEY'LL HAVE IT! I already take the rotor-arm out when I leave it for long periods, and use a stop lock on the steering wheel - though I'll admit that these are next to useless - bolt cropper'ed steering wheel and it's off.. Cheers Guys, Jerboa..

Definately not worth it, as far as I know, you need some fairly specialist tools. Recon'd boxes are only £110 ish (exchange) from paddocks, come with a years warranty and wont go wrong (whereas a home rebuilt one might..)

I had a similar problem on my '94 300 (similar electronics I think just for that year) and traced it to the alarm/immob ECU. I ended up earthing the starter relay instead of allowing it to run through alarm/immob ECU, isolating the ECU and allowing the engine to run fine. everything else ran perfectly after that. Also, make sure you contacts are clean. (in the relays and particularly the start/stop solenoid on the injector pump. hope this helps..

Sometiimes injector pump timing can be out, leads to erractis starting etc..

Welcome to my fobless world, Im president..

ebay. probably, or autotrader. best bet maybe a series or 90/110, rather then a scrap worthy old disco..!

Unless there is something wrong with the selector mechanism I reckon its most likely a clutch issue - its probably not disengaging the driveline properly - resulting in difficulty disengaging/engaging gears. Gearbox failures tend to be gradual, rather then sudden. Might be a bent or fractured clutch release arm, which will result in the slave cylinder not being able to totally operate the action of the clutch. Alternatively, there's a little plastic clip somewhere in the selector system, might have snapped, though that usually results in lack of the 3/4th gear bias. Most likley clutch/clutch release system.. Maybe new clutch then, and while you're at it, rear crank oil seal. I made mistake of not doing that.

So If I have that ECU, with that part Number on it, I'm missing a FOB, right, Im having a look! Cheers,

You just use the same button to arm/disarm it. Everyother function on it is automatic - makes sense really, its a pretty simple arrangement!

'94 to late '95 (or early '96) have one button Fobs, my previous '94 300 did. I'm still trying to figure out whether the fobs are standard equipement and if mine is missing or whether it was a cost option and mine doesn't have one at all. Can I tell by looking at the alarm ecu? It has the little flashy red light in centre of console near radio.

Try this: If you have a 2 button remote, this will NOT work: Remote Programming - Single Button Must be carried out in 8 seconds to access learn mode. Best done with two people. You should have both remotes available or second one will not work. * Open hood and have you wife hold hood alarm switch down. * From inside car with all doors closed, ignition off and all lock buttons up * Turn ignition on then off * Cycle drivers door button down then up * Wife now releases hood switch * Turn ignition on then off * If done correctly, horn will beep once and dash LED will light up. This indicates the learn mode has been accessed. If this doesn’t happen repeat 1 thru 6. * From inside car push and hold first remote. The dash LED should flash 8 cycles a second for one second indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat steps 1 thru 6 again. Push and hold the second remote if the code is received the dash LED will flash 8 cycles indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat 1 thru 8 again. Note: Turning the ignition on at any time will cancel the learning process. The system can only store two remote codes and must be done at the same time. If you only have one remote program it twice. Hope it helps..

The reason it runs so hard once you've started is to do with the fluid inside the Vicous coupling. Oddly this fluid inside actually gets thicker when it warms up (to a point), thus engaging the coupling and spinning the fan at a 1.1:1 ratio. Problem comes when its cold, where the oil is also sticky, it runs for a few minutes when you turn it on because the coupling is engaged - relying on the friction, caused by a few minutes of running, to warm it to operating tempreture where it thins out and disengages the fan (albeit not completley). Ultimately a very reliable and efficient system, if towing a couple of tons across the Sahara, in sand, 1st low, with a trailing wind is your thing! In this case, engine doesn't get hot, I'd know I tried..! Uk winter though doesn't quite justify the cooling capacity of a TDi's cooling system (if in good nick), take it off (put it back in summer?) and keep it, and the bent 32m spanner you need to remove it, with you in your car..! : )

And are the items that you get from ebay any good - ie: the "genuine land rover ones" or is remotekey the only way to go? Cheers..

So I'm missing one? hmmm, is replacement as simple as just getting one from ebay and programming the alarm ecu with that ignition/bonnet switch sequence? ie: what you have to do when you buy a new fob from remotekey.co.uk? or do you need numbers etc?

Just bought my 6th Landrover - the second discovery, '95 300tdi. It's come with 2 keys, but no alarm fob. The alarm still appears to arm itself with the keys (the lights flash) when its locked manually, so it works perimetrically as per the manual. But I'm wondering if in fact it should have a remote Fob/alarm thing? Is there anyway to tell? My last disco ('94) had a single button Fob and it could arm/operate the central locking that way.. So really I'm wondering if the Fob was standard or an option..?! Any help or knowledge would be handy, Thanks in advance..

I put a britpart timing kit in my old 300tdi disco. It worked. for 500 miles. I was on a trip when the nut that secures the idler thats included (its a crimped typr if I remember) wasnt quite crimped enough. Despite doing it up to correct torque it came undone. Shredding the cambelt against the timing cover, it jumped a few teeth and the engine lost power, it wheezed into a belgian service station where I had to fix it. Lucky it wasnt more serious!

You also need to be carefull about the length of your TD5 prop. Apparently ones from a manual disco are 15mm shorter (too-short supposedly) then the ones from an auto. No worry though, you can buy a spacer for a few quid froim ebay I think - it goes on the diff end.

*and then they'll match!*

I put a disco 200TDi engine in a 110, that previously had a knackered TD. The temp sender from the TD actually went straight ion temp sender hole on the TDi engine. If that works you could probably get an temp gauge from a defender TD. Which is probably the same as any other (earlier) guage??

Im thinking of doing pretty much the same with my '86 efi RR, does it matter much in terms of ease of fitment whether you go for 200 or 300 tdi? And will it go straight in with out having to do new mounts etc?

I had a similar problem, it took me sodding ages to figure it out.. I checked fuel first.. Check fuel pump by taking off air filter, (this'll only work on flapper type fuel systems..) turn ignition on and just nuge the flap open by half an inch.. You should hear pump, if you don't somethings wrong - check wiring or pump itself. while your there - with ignition on, open throttle by hand, you should be able to hear injectors firing! these are just a couple of things, i found my problem was with the Over-run fuel shut off system. The relay is mounted on passenger side inner wing, with a a vacuum sensor located either on engine block or on bulkhead. Clean up relay connectors and check it functions correctly - mine didn't and it took ages to figure out! Google "efi flapper type diagnostic manual" and download the most usefull paperwork you will ever find on the internet. Alternativley, if yours is hot wire, google hotwire type..! Good luck Alec

Thanks for your reply, I have been phoning around the LPG specialists but none of them seem to know anything about IMPCO systems. I got lucky on google just now and came across this.. IMPCO training manual - www.impco-beru.nl/IMPCO%20Training%20Manual.pdf Problem half solved, I will rebuild vapouriser and then take car along with these instructions to a garage with gas analyzer and have them blow themselves up. Cheers..!

Doesn't seem to be as simple as that, if you adjust one thing you bugger up another setting, then you adjust that one and the first buggers up even more, and you need to set it at certain rev/load conditions etc..!

Disco turned up in Libya, Im not getting it back.. unfortunatley.