DC_

Ahh ha!! Talk that i can understand. Ok got ya now. So it is just a case of removing it all one by one carefully, so will i notice that the bob weights are clearly out of position? Fingers crossed. Many thanks again for taking the time to reply. DC

Never had the plastic cover off thats under the dizzy cap. Do i need to take this off to get to what your talking about? "Remove the base plate"...............................Don't really know what the base plate is (sorry for being daft) If i have a full talk through it'll make more sense to me. Remove dizzy cap. Take out the 3 screws that hold the plastic cover in place that protects the points inside................Remove points? base plate?? Many thanks for the reply, but still struggling to understand what i need to do. Think the main problem is with the rotor arm.

I know what you mean Nick. The fuel return is actually quite easy if you have the wee bits to do it. I was lucky enough to have a guy who knows a fair bit about these things (self taught) and he described and showed how to check it out. If your anything like me it's the thought of making something worse rather than better...............................along with wanting to set fire to it

Ok update. Went down today and started to do the easy stuff i can do. Removed the Throttle position sensor. Removed the air flow meter plug. removed the fuel pump fuse to prevent further fuel getting in. Cranked the engine over a while to get rid of excess fuel. Nothing going on................. Remembered from the weekend that the rotor arm had some travel on it when we removed the dizzy cap. So...........i took off the dizzy cap again and cleaned the arm. Put it back in and turned it clockwise so it locked in a solid positon.Tried starting again, nothing, put the fuse back in as i was cranking and it roared into life!!!! So i put all the sensors and stuff back together and let her idle for 15 mins.Now my battery light has come on very faint whilst she is running so i've now been told my altenator is dead Here she is in all her glory. Canny thank you guys enough for chipping in. Just wish there was more people closer to me.I am thinking it's the hotwire......................

"Another top contender is that your RPV (Fuell Pressure releief valve) er "Isn't" Check fuel pressure, as if the PRV Jams you can get up to 100+ PSI rather than the 28-34psi you really wnat Even if CTS is gone should still run IMHO, just VERY Rich." All of this sounds bang on the money. It was running very rich as there was a build up of black deposit on every spark plug. So checking the relief valve..................................bit of hose.................connect to where fuel should be carried back to tank. make sure with ignition on that it's returning fuel by putting temp hose in bucket??? Sound ok??

Bearing in mind i'm not clued up on how to do these things, nor do i have any special tools. How would i check the fuel pressure? Not sure the timing is correct. Think it's hotwire............how can i tell?

Thanks folks for the input. All welcome. Ok update. Removed the fuel pump fuse as suggested also from a mate, The rangie nearly fires up but then loses the notion, when i put in the fuel pump fuse back in for a fraction of a sec, again, it nearly fires up. It just wont catch. Done this for about ten minutes but it just wouldn't catch. After noticing that there was some smoke coming out from the engine and the manifolds where quite hot along with the jump leads i decided to stop trying. Any more thoughts with this new info? Dizzy cap new. Spark plugs new, HT leads new, coil? dont know but i have a new OEM one ready to fit.

Hi gang. Couldn't get the beast started and i think we found out that there is far to much fuel getting into the chambers. We took the plugs out 2 or 3 times to dry off and clean. Every time we tried to start it up, It would show a slight sign of trying to fire up but then die as there was too much fuel getting in. As stephen said there could be a few things why this is happening. Another reason i was told since yesterday afternoon is the coolant temp sensor is faulty. So i'm gona try and unplug it to see if it makes a diff when i get time., Just wondering if anyone else has any thoughts on this? The plugs where soaked with petrol everytime we cleaned them. Cheers DC

you could also try your vacum switch is operational.

Job done brake lights working. How do i get into the warning lights that may have been pulled in the dash?

http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...tion/index.html If you scroll down you'll see the ignition leads lucas £15.27. RTC6551G I have the same car and these leads seem to do a great job.

Thanks for the reply, Got the ABS pdf but Unfortunately it really no use to me as i'm not that clued up on these things. Bleeding the system to fit the the switch right? i can get the pedal to press down but i don't know if the switch is fully located in it's position. One day i'll know how to do the bleeding but at the moment i don't.

Got the switch in and fitted it. I dont think it's sitting properly in it's position. The brake pedal doesn't reach the switch. Do i need to push it it really hard? I'm worried about breaking it. DC

Congrats on your RRC. I'll be keeping a wee eye on this as it's something i may consider myself after i've got all my other problems sorted. DC

The haynes book i have only briefly covers what to do and isn't very informative. Would be very helpfull to get a detailed step by step guide as i do not know alot about these things. If i have a guide i will give it a go. DC P.S does anyone know why i dont get emails telling me there's been a reply to my posts?

http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnds/index.html Might even save you more money. Tell richard, Colin and bill From bofa4x4 recommended you when you ring or email. DC

No reply i see. I was wondering how to get in to the bulbs in the dash also. Anyone???

I will try and find out if the bulb has been taken out. Switch is now here for the brake lights and they seem to be working on it. ECU reset etc............... i may struggle with. Is there any step by step guides on here i could use? DC

Only light that stays on for a short while is the Brake light (same one comes on when you apply handbrake) which i think is for the fluid pressure. There is no other light that comes on. I have read that the light should go off after travelling about 5mph due to the sensors sending back an ok signal. Mines doesn't light up at all. This is why i was wondering if there was a reason why the switch would be removed.

Ok thanks , will have a look ASAP. Watch this space. DC

Can you be a little more detailed please? I had a good look when all the facing was off and never seen any screws. Is it behind the cap with the four wires coming from it? If so, does the cap just pop out of place? Cheers DC

When i turn the key to illuminate the ignition lights just before the final turn to start up, i have recently found that when i am switching the engine off i only need to turn the key a fraction and the engine cuts out. Sort of like it's just hanging on to the on position and wants to slip back. When i took the dash covers off to have a look. I found that on the opposite side from where the key goes in, there is a cap type connection with four wires. I pushed this in and twisted it clockwise and that seemed to make the key stay in the on position better. Any thoughts? DC

Having found that my brake lights dont work, i discovered that the switch was missing. That was the good news. Now i am wondering if there is a reason someone may have removed the switch on purpose. Could it have been an ABS fault? Trying to hide something else? Thoughts? DC

Only £200.................must be loaded. LOL Should be able to get yer man that's doing yer roll cage to sort it wills. DC

After discovering my brake lights dont work. I checked the switch at the back of the brake pedal to see if the connections may have come loose or the switch may need adjusting. I discovered that there is no switch attatched to the pedal. I would like your help on this one please. I ordered a switch but my problem is that there is no connections to put on the switch even if there was one there. I have posted a few pics to show. Please note that there are a few connections hanging down. Unless the switch in my rangie is the plug type rather than the 2 blade type, then i do not see any for the brake switch. Hope this makes sense. Any thoughts would be appreciated. DC