DC_

Thanks folks for the input. All welcome. Ok update. Removed the fuel pump fuse as suggested also from a mate, The rangie nearly fires up but then loses the notion, when i put in the fuel pump fuse back in for a fraction of a sec, again, it nearly fires up. It just wont catch. Done this for about ten minutes but it just wouldn't catch. After noticing that there was some smoke coming out from the engine and the manifolds where quite hot along with the jump leads i decided to stop trying. Any more thoughts with this new info? Dizzy cap new. Spark plugs new, HT leads new, coil? dont know but i have a new OEM one ready to fit.

Hi gang. Couldn't get the beast started and i think we found out that there is far to much fuel getting into the chambers. We took the plugs out 2 or 3 times to dry off and clean. Every time we tried to start it up, It would show a slight sign of trying to fire up but then die as there was too much fuel getting in. As stephen said there could be a few things why this is happening. Another reason i was told since yesterday afternoon is the coolant temp sensor is faulty. So i'm gona try and unplug it to see if it makes a diff when i get time., Just wondering if anyone else has any thoughts on this? The plugs where soaked with petrol everytime we cleaned them. Cheers DC

you could also try your vacum switch is operational.

Job done brake lights working. How do i get into the warning lights that may have been pulled in the dash?

http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...tion/index.html If you scroll down you'll see the ignition leads lucas £15.27. RTC6551G I have the same car and these leads seem to do a great job.

Thanks for the reply, Got the ABS pdf but Unfortunately it really no use to me as i'm not that clued up on these things. Bleeding the system to fit the the switch right? i can get the pedal to press down but i don't know if the switch is fully located in it's position. One day i'll know how to do the bleeding but at the moment i don't.

Got the switch in and fitted it. I dont think it's sitting properly in it's position. The brake pedal doesn't reach the switch. Do i need to push it it really hard? I'm worried about breaking it. DC

Congrats on your RRC. I'll be keeping a wee eye on this as it's something i may consider myself after i've got all my other problems sorted. DC

The haynes book i have only briefly covers what to do and isn't very informative. Would be very helpfull to get a detailed step by step guide as i do not know alot about these things. If i have a guide i will give it a go. DC P.S does anyone know why i dont get emails telling me there's been a reply to my posts?

http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnds/index.html Might even save you more money. Tell richard, Colin and bill From bofa4x4 recommended you when you ring or email. DC

No reply i see. I was wondering how to get in to the bulbs in the dash also. Anyone???

I will try and find out if the bulb has been taken out. Switch is now here for the brake lights and they seem to be working on it. ECU reset etc............... i may struggle with. Is there any step by step guides on here i could use? DC

Only light that stays on for a short while is the Brake light (same one comes on when you apply handbrake) which i think is for the fluid pressure. There is no other light that comes on. I have read that the light should go off after travelling about 5mph due to the sensors sending back an ok signal. Mines doesn't light up at all. This is why i was wondering if there was a reason why the switch would be removed.

Ok thanks , will have a look ASAP. Watch this space. DC

Can you be a little more detailed please? I had a good look when all the facing was off and never seen any screws. Is it behind the cap with the four wires coming from it? If so, does the cap just pop out of place? Cheers DC

When i turn the key to illuminate the ignition lights just before the final turn to start up, i have recently found that when i am switching the engine off i only need to turn the key a fraction and the engine cuts out. Sort of like it's just hanging on to the on position and wants to slip back. When i took the dash covers off to have a look. I found that on the opposite side from where the key goes in, there is a cap type connection with four wires. I pushed this in and twisted it clockwise and that seemed to make the key stay in the on position better. Any thoughts? DC

Having found that my brake lights dont work, i discovered that the switch was missing. That was the good news. Now i am wondering if there is a reason someone may have removed the switch on purpose. Could it have been an ABS fault? Trying to hide something else? Thoughts? DC

Only £200.................must be loaded. LOL Should be able to get yer man that's doing yer roll cage to sort it wills. DC

After discovering my brake lights dont work. I checked the switch at the back of the brake pedal to see if the connections may have come loose or the switch may need adjusting. I discovered that there is no switch attatched to the pedal. I would like your help on this one please. I ordered a switch but my problem is that there is no connections to put on the switch even if there was one there. I have posted a few pics to show. Please note that there are a few connections hanging down. Unless the switch in my rangie is the plug type rather than the 2 blade type, then i do not see any for the brake switch. Hope this makes sense. Any thoughts would be appreciated. DC

Howdy Wills, Update: Changed spark plugs (NGK) Got Lucas leads New dizzy cap. V Power and redex treatment. Checked connections to starter motor..........................BINGO!!! Spade connection was hanging off and barely touching solinoid. Connection now good and after changing all the leads ( someone who fitted the older ones actually had them on in the wrong order) and dizzy cap. She fired up ACE!! Took a run up to GEMM 4x4 today to try and get an exhaust part. Never cut out once and ran great on LPG. WIll do a service next weekend to make sure all filters are ok. MAGIC!!

Thanks for all the effort on that post, really do appreciate it as i feel i'm all alone on this with not knowing too much about the whole thing. Update:- Took her out a run last night to the park. Switched off, tried to restart and the starter motor wouldn't turn over. Had to leave it there until i could get round this morning. Gave the starter a bang to see if it would unjam, no luck. Gave the leads a wiggle to see if it was a connection, at first it didn't work. There wasn't even a click from the starter when i was turning the key. Then i gave the leads another good wiggle and tried. I then turned the key and held it in position to start, whilst doing that, i activated the alarm immobiliser, then unactivated it, then the starter started to click in and turned over. Engine started up ok. I am going to disconnect the motor and clean up all the connections,also been told to replace the spade connectors with crimp on ones. Clean the male spade (on starter motor) and smear on vaseline. Any thoughts on this ?

Thanks Guys, i have put £30 of shell V power fuel in along with Redex system clean and already after only running it on that for a few miles it seems to be a little better. I have the spark plugs (NGK) at the ready just need time to fit them. I have patched a couple of blows on the exhaust and it's sounding better...... will fix it properly when i have cash for it. Does any of you know a good landy guy in west of scotland that can tune the V8 up? I think i'm also in need of a starter motor, the one at the mo is clicking from time to time then kicks in. Will also change the leads and distibutor cap and rotor arm ASAP. So......................only lucas parts? DC

Not heard anything yet about bleeding the brakes, God i hope not LOL. I have been advised that it could be the switch. Year of RR is Aug 92. I will keep you's posted on the result. DC

Can anyone give a newbie advice on what the problem may be with my brake lights. I have checked the bulbs and they are fine. I am not that clued up on tech stuff but if someone can tell me what to do in detail i can manage it. DC

Hi Folks, First post here, you's were recommended by another 4x4 forum as i have just bought a 92 RRC 3.9 vouhe EFI Auto. It's been converted to LPG. There is a problem with the running of it really. Seems to run fine on petrol but when i swap it over to LPG after the engine has heated, it runs ok on it until i come to a halt. Then when i put the accelerator back down to go, it cuts out. Today it cut out for the first time on petrol. Tomorrow i will renew the spark plugs and i have put shell V Petrol in along with redex to see if this will make a difference. Can anyone suggest what may be the problem with the LPG? I know where the 2 screws are to adjust the settings, but i dont wanna mess with it incase i make the problem worse. DC