Ash.Witty

Hi I have done this myself. I bought a R380 V8 bellhousing off Ashcroft trans, then used the Td5 release bearing guide, throwout are etc as its the same as v8 stuff. then the tdi Input shaft has a 7/8" end of the shaft which locates into the spiggot bush where as a v8's is 3/4", so you need a V8 spiggot bush borring out from 3/4" to 7/8" to fit the shaft, it will end up with about 1mm wall thickness but mine is holding up fine. use all v8 clutch gear. I did this to my 300 Tdi 110 to put a v8 in and haven't had any problems even with the thin spiggot bush. hope this helps Ash

Norbar are very good quality, we use them at work and get used a lot. I have had mine for 5 years and has passed it's calibration test every time. Also the bottom four of the five torque wrenches you listed appear to be identical apart from the brand etched on, I have one for general home use from machine mart, but for cyl. heads, mains and big ends etc. I only use Norbar because I know it's reliable. Ash

I'm not 100% on this but I think Cummins and Izuzu worked together in the designing of the "B" series engines, From what I've read it's more the delivery trucks rather than the 4x4's engines that are similar. It's the 4BT and 4BD1T are 3.9L capacity. And there will be plenty of tuning parts in the USA just as for the 6BT

Hi, I fitted mine with some copper slip grease, I got it on 1/2 way then pulled it down with the nut, to remove I bought a nice puller off e-bay which has worked well a few times. The splines are a very good fit so expect it to be tight going on.

I was going to dowel my plates but, the holes were ever so slightly out of centre, my plan now is to drill the holes .5mm bigger and use a finger clock/dti to ensure everything is running true before torquing down then re-checking the centralisation.

I used ARP head studs when I rebuilt the top end after boiling my v8, you run the studs down into the ally block and then tighten the nut pulling on the stud. They are better for the block threads as you're not torquing the bolt into a soft metal so there's less chance of pulling or stripping a thread. Also I have built up a V8 with V8D's ht bolts and washers and they worked a treat but only tightened to 70 ft lbs. where as with the Arp studs I torqued the heads down to 90 ft lbs. because my v8 was turbocharged

After going for a blast in Nick's Cummins powered 90, I myself am half way through fitting my 110 with one I have never been in a truck with such large tyres that has thrown you into the back of your seat and put such a big grin on your face like his AWESOMEEEE