Ash.Witty

I have just had a look at the knuckle bush, it's a 16mm through hole, doesn't have the lip on so won't need machining. I currently can't upload pics as I'm on my phone but they are exactly the same as the pictures on Google.

Yes I think they are sport upper knuckle bushes, they are at my workshop so will be unable to get pics till tomorrow but look exactly the same as your RBK500220 knuckle but has 5mm extra spacing on each side. Will check as well that they have a 16mm through hole not 14mm.

Sorry, wrote the part number down wrong, the bushes/knuckles part number of the ones I got were RHF500130.

After seeing the pics of those I've been out and bought some, I got some RBK500130 or RBK000130 they measure 54mm O/D, 16mm I/D 75mm total width and 31.5 mm centre width. 3 link in progress

I have just looked them up as this has been quite an interesting thread, as I also have plans on doing a 3 link setup on my Landy. The bush P/N is: RBK500220 or RBK000042 Both look pretty similar though.

most probably easy to measure up against another vehicle of the same spec. I converted my 110 from a 300Tdi to V8 using the existing R380, I bolted my engine up to my new bellhousing then fit the chassis mounts to the engine rubbers and lowered the engine to the correct position, I then tacked the mounts to the chassis and then removed the engine. I then ran a good weld round the mounts and gave them a good lick of paint. Doing it this way allows you to use existing length propshafts and pipes etc.

Get the sniff test as mentioned above, If the head gaskets gone it will possibly be using water and in turn fill the water system with air, the presurisation of the cooling system and anti-freeze raise the boiling point of the coolant from 100'c up to 130-150'c with the right mixture. If your head gaskets gone usually puffing white smoke out and water is lost the temp sensor will be unable to pick up the actual engine temperature. Ash

It is fiddley but I have done the job a few times now and find it easiest to hold the backplate pin with 1 finger, then fit the springs and then get the little dished cup and start it by hand and finish turning with a set of pliers if it's been stubborn. Swearing at it usually helps too.

No problem

I have a brand new one if your interested, I bought 5 years ago to do the same thing. Its a genuine 3 piece 200Tdi manifold. PM me if your interested although shipping to Canada might be quite expensive. Ash

Mine were sent with UK mail, approx £23 from Gloucester to Manchester for 2x batteries.

I recieved 2 optima batteries the other day, I will check the courier label tomorrow to see who delivered them and let you know.

Hmmm what dimensions and how many cores are the rad, my 4.2 was originally 3 core until my viscous fan propelled its way through it, I then had a 4 core 're-core as I planned a 4.6 TT install with a twin speed kenlowe and a set of p38 air con fans on. It would get up to temp then go down to 82'c where it would stay there all day unless I booted it say down the bypass where it would only get to 87'c. Why not add another core?

Also it might sound daft but have you tested the thermostat to make sure it works?

Do you have a heater? If not and your running a serpentine V8 you need link the bottom hose to a port on the top of the inlet manifold before the thermostat. This allows the coolant to circulate round the engine until it reaches the point of which the thermostat opens then it flows through the radiator. Why have you decided to run a lower temp thermostat As this won't cure overheating as the cooling systems not up to scratch. Whatever you decide don't run an engine without a thermostat as you are asking for premature wear.

might be gearbox related, does it make the noise when the clutch is engaged or dissengaged? My gearbox used to rattle on idle and when I pressed the clutch pedal the noise would dissappear. I have removed my gearbox and there was a lot of play in the input shaft and the clutch release bearing was fine.

yes no problem nick, I'm sure I can get a set of plates made bluespanner I still have a few modifications to make such as having two recess cut for O-rings to seal the plate to the transfer box and to the gearbox plate and when I next have the boxes apart I am going to re-drill the holes which bolt the plates together and heli-coil them as this will provide a stronger thread than the aluminium. The plates roughly cost me £300 to make, £120 for the aluminium and £180 worth of machining and I think it was about £135 for the adapter shaft to be made.

Still have my notes pinned to my wall, in the future I might get it drawn up in CAD in case I attempt another conversion then it saves the hassle of marking it all out and they can bang the program on a cnc machine and can be machined in a matter of hours rather than days.

No, I marked out and drilled the plates to the required size then instructed the machine shop on what to bore out, to counterbore and to mill off. It really isnt hard to work out the bolt pattern just measure everything in inches and you will be fine, start with one hole then measuring in a series of triangles you can accurately work out the pattern.

I measured today Mr Steggel, front of the damper to the arse end of the transfer box is 70"

When the lumps had an overhaul not that it needs it and a lick of paint it will look a little tastier When I looked into a Cummins engine swap into a Landy I thought there wouldn't be enough room to undertake such a conversion and ended up buying a 7.3L Ford V8 diesel, but then I found a few videos on YouTube of landys running Cummins lumps in and thought it can be done so why not do it. The only thing was I had no idea how to go about the conversion... After speaking to the Steg about his conversion and then having a good look under the 90 I had a rough idea of what needed to be done. After a bit more research I decided about getting an engine and ended up with a 1998 210Bhp 6BTAA out of a daf 55 and a Dana Spicer 5 speed box. It's taken me roughly 2 months to make the gearbox plates as the machine shop was shut over Christmas but as of yesterday the gearbox and transfer box are mated together. Next weekend I will be fabricating the engine mounts and chassis mounts and hope to have it sat in within the next few weeks. I miss my V8 but this engine offers so much more grunt I just couldn't resist and will be worth it once it's done

On my old 300Tdi one of the oil cooler pipes worked its way loose, I kept thinking it was the filter until I noticed the pipe was only 2 turns from blowing off. It was quite lucky I found it as when I got home after driving for about a mile I had to top it up with nearly 4L of oil and it was at max on the dipstick when I set off. Keep an eye out on the pipes too.

I am also doing the 6BT conversion after nick took me for a blast in his purple 90, I am using a different gearbox though and fitting it in a 110 will make it a little easier than squeezing into a 90. Can't wait for all the low down torque for off roading, and 250+ BHP on the road

Went to ABB in Telford and had two of our turbos off a Mirrlees KV16 being overhauled, they were cast with bbc on but was told that everything is now under ABB as said above.

Are they B.B.C. Or A.B.B. turbos? I would say 15,000-25,000 Rpm.