Paddy_SP

I'd come to the conclusion that I'd rather use a PU adhesive than drill holes in my galvanised doors when I saw one of the Britannica Restorations videos where he does the same thing. So I'll be using either CT1 or EB25!

Thanks - my door frames have holes in them, but not the new channels, etc. I think the best thing will be to completely ignore the existing holes and to drill news into my brand new galvanised door (boo-hoo). I've already ordered up some stainless screws to replace the standard horrors as there's not a cat in hell's chance of me fitting them only to watch them dissolve into lumps of rust before my eyes!

I'm attempting to rebuild my doors now that everything is painted, etc. I have almost everything I need, however, I've just realised that the fixing holes for the screws which hold the plastic channels for the glass don't correspond with the stated sizes. The screws are meant to be No.6 x 3/8 - these are 3.5 mm in diameter, but the holes they're meant to go into are 5 mm (there are some bigger ones too elsewhere on the frames). The parts lists don't appear to show any lock-plugs for them to engage with, so I'm scratching my head. Do I buy/make some plugs to make everything fit, or am I missing something? As ever, any help would be most appreciated!

You too...

I agree - driving a digger is one of those things included under the 'Most fun you can have with your clothes on' banner!

Well done! I've been building (or more to the point, not building) a car port for some time. It's located at the side of my yard - in order to get the space, I had to demolish a stone wall and then dig out the bank behind it. I estimate that I've moved the best part of 50 tons of soil/clay/rock - all by hand. Loads of people said 'just hire a digger', but that would only have cut down the work by a small amount as we used a lot of the better soil to help level up the 'lawn' - which is more like rough pasture. And that process meant sifting through it all to remove stones, broken glass, bits of old metal, etc. I've now got the area cleared - but it'll have to wait for the ground to dry out before I can get the footings for the retaining wall in place. At least that's my excuse - in the meantime, I can get on with the Defender...

Many thanks for the info - my rusty old brain must have heard something along these lines for the thought process to have been triggered!

Thanks for your continued comments! I've replaced (well, repaired) the regulators in my D1 several times over the years, but I've never bothered to look very deeply into the electrics. When one of the rears stopped working, I just disconnected it as I didn't use it.

Ah - thanks for that - my background is in motor racing (especially motor cycles), so windows are a bit of a new concept to me!

I'm in the middle of installing electric windows to the front doors of my '93 110 which are being built up from bare - before putting the glass in place I thought it'd make sense to power the systems up to check that all works properly. While the mechanisms go up and down as expected, I was surprised to find that when they are at their travel limits the motors still draw lots of power. I would have thought that there would be limit switches to shut them off at this point - both sides do the same thing, and both are brand new, so I very much doubt there's a component problem. Am I just expecting too much design sophistication or am I missing something?

The only reason not to paint stainless is due to the difficulty of getting decent adhesion - if you talk to your local auto paint supplier though, you should be able to find an adhesion promoter that will work well - I use one by Mipa; although I usually use it through a spray gun, in my experience the can version works equally well: 1K-HaftpromoterSpray.pdf (mipa-paints.com) Good luck with it all!

Well done on all your efforts thus far - I'm keen to see the final stage! I've just read through all four pages - it's a current subject for me as I'm having a sit down after spending the evening making a cabinet to go around my 3D printer (JG Aurora). The idea is to be able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the print. I've already made a load of other mods to it - mostly to stiffen up the bed support and main frames.

There should be two grommets - one on the inside, the other on the outside (I've just done mine!).

Ah - that's good to hear - many thanks indeed!

I'm about to fit two new panes to the rear end of my 110 - the small ones that go either side of the rear door. The only issue is that I don't have the correct seals - I do, however, have two new alpine window seals spare which I could cut down - my question therefore is - are the sectional dimensions the same? As ever, any help would be most appreciated!

Well, I'm pleased to say that all is done and dusted, despite it fighting me pretty well every step of the way. Before doing starting out, I went back and re-measured the exact section where the seal would have been located, and it was 29.7 mm - certainly not enough to prevent water from passing through a 31 mm seal, and even if it had fitted, the rough finish would have seen it suffer unduly. This encouraged me to press ahead - the roll bar has, as stated above, been flipped end-for-end and has a new circlip groove at the left. I then made up a stainless extension carrier which places the seal on the raised shoulder (which has a lovely ground finish to it) at the right hand end. The carrier then has a Teflon spigot which fits into the original seal plate. After the usual measuring and re-machining of the various spacers I got the desired amount of end float in the shaft. I had to make up a short distance piece to get the left knuckle arm to line up properly as well - sadly, I didn't have any stainless in a suitable size, so that got knocked up in titanium! All the fasteners have been replaced with stainless equivalents. As far as the comment about me 'overthinking' this goes - I'm very happy to be accused of this. The whole vehicle has been built from the ground up on this basis, which is the main reason it's taken me so bleddy long. Far better to over-think than under-think, in my books... Despite all the work I had to put in to make it suit my requirements, I'd still buy the kit - if I were the manufacturer though, I'd do two things: 1) Make sure up to date instructions were available (I still haven't received mine). 2) I'd provide a Nylon sleeve to go over the shaft where the seal sits so that water and muck were kept out of the freewheel hub. Bonded on with silicone or equivalent, it would be a cheap solution to the problem.

Gentlemen - I agree that what I'm working with is simply a re-purposed half shaft, but I don't agree that allowing water in is acceptable. If you read around the 'net you'll find various accounts of people having to undertake regular rebuilds of the clutches - if it takes me a bit more time now to avoid that in the future, then so be it. A tighter seal is certainly one option, but the rough-machined state of the shaft would simply mean that it'd wear out in short order. Anyway - I've nearly fixed the problem now - had I not been dragged away kicking and screaming to attend a family birthday, I'd have finished by now!

Yes, I believe so - however, not being privvy to the background details, I don't know if what was designed there is actually what is being supplied to the public. I'm currently in the process of re-engineering the whole thing so that it meets my requirements. To this end, I've cut a new circlip groove and flipped the bar over. There isn't enough room to get the seal plate over the raised shoulder, so I'm going to have to make an extension seal carrier. At least when that's done the poor seal will have a chance of doing its job - sitting in fresh air as it does at the moment, it might as well not be there!

The raised section (which sits in exactly the right place when the shaft is reversed) is the correct diameter - 32 mm, while the shaft at the 'no groove' end is 31 mm. The seal is 32 mm ID.

Yes - here's the issue: The images here show the problem - the 32 mm shoulder which the seal appears to have been designed to run on is at the same end as the circlip groove. If you look, you will be able to see that the other end - where the free-wheel clutch sits, has no shoulder. The shaft there is 31 mm, whereas the seal's ID is 32 mm. The supplier seems to think this is correct - I think it isn't. It looks as though I'm going to have to machine a new circlip groove into the shaft and then switch it end for end. I do hope that this problem is restricted to the shaft I have, and not to any others that have been sold...

Thanks, Steve - yes, I have those, but despite the differences between that version and mine, the damned things don't even mention the circlip in question. They briefly mention that there's one in the freewheel clutch, but that's it!

After much consideration, I finally stumped up the money and bought an X Deflex kit which arrived yesterday. While I'm pleased with most of it, there are a couple of issues that have left me scratching my head. Firstly, there were no instructions with it. I could accept this if they were available on-line - but they aren't - just a set for the previous version (v1.2) - mine is a v1.3 (so I'm told), which is different. When I 'phoned them yesterday the suppliers said they'd email me the instructions, but it seems that their technical department had the day off, so I didn't get them. So - having worked in the motor racing industry for the last several decades, I thought I should be able to sort it out easily enough - famous last words... On calling again today to ask specifically about which way around the roll bar itself goes, I was categorically told that the circlip and associated groove go at the left end to hold the drive flange on - which is what I had assumed. I was also told that what I'd got is correct as the seal gets sandwiched between the plate and the clutch and therefore no water can get in. This is completely wrong as the seal's lips are simply sitting in fresh air when the bar is fitted the above way around, and any water in the area would simply flow straight in. The problem is that the right hand end of the bar - which takes a plate that carries an oil seal, should have a shoulder for the seal to bear against - but this is at the left end, where it can't do anything. So - either the circlip and shoulder should both go at the right end, or the groove has been machined into the wrong end. I wouldn't normally be worried about it, but as it's a Bank Holiday weekend, I've got to wait three days before I can get an answer from the suppliers and I'm frustrated as hell. So - my question is simply this - which damned end is the circlip groove meant to go???

Thanks for your help - my problem was that the stock speakers are only about 20 mm deep to cope with the fact that they're located almost right up against the roof - most are a lot more than that and thus wouldn't fit in the available space. I've since changed my mind about where they will go though - instead, I'm going to install them in the Mud roof console which arrived yesterday. They'll be in almost the same place, but there's enough space behind to fit a deeper speaker. I found a set for £30-odd that should go in - fingers crossed!

I have a '93 200Tdi 110 - I'm in the process of replacing the headlining. I've resin-treated the three panels, lined the roof with insulation, and I'm more or less ready to begin putting the new fabric on. Before I do so, however, I'd like to replace the original speakers as they're 28 years old and appear to be rattly; I'd hate to fix everything in place and then find that they need sorting out. So - I'd be most grateful if someone here would be kind enough to recommend a suitable type! I know that they're 4 ohm, but that's it. Are they tweeters?

The screws are #8-32 UNC - just replaced them on mine!