Paddy_SP

On later RRs, there's a hidden clip which needs to be depressed before removal. The early Disco ones don't appear to have anything retaining them, however, but even with 'subtle persuasion' they don't want to move an iota, so glue seems to be the mostly likely answer!

Thanks, I'll do that - is it simply bonded on?

I've fitted a Disco 1 handbrake to my Defender so that it's the same as my daily driver. While it works well, the grip is in a horrible state and needs replacing. The damned thing doesn't want to come off though - I could obviously cut it away, but I don't want to do so until I know how the new one will go on. There don't seem to be any release clips anywhere, so any ideas as to how it can be removed would be most appreciated!

How did you sort the problem in the end? Can you even remember after all this time? I'm facing almost the same problem...

Many thanks and my apologies for the late reply - I don't know anyone had responded! I've passed the info on to my mate.

My mate has a Disco 4 for which he needs centre caps for the wheels. Normally, he says, they're sold as being '63 mm' - but these are way too small and just fall out. I assume that this measurement is for the overall diameter of the cap, as the actual holes in his wheels are only 50.2 mm. They are genuine factory wheels, so you'd think this was something the dealers could get their heads around, but thus far, they haven't. So - his plea was for me to ask on here if anyone knows where he can get a set of the correct items!

Since posting the above, I've sussed that the noise is coming from what I believe to be the rear heater relay - the small can that's located in the middle of the fuseboard with 056700-5260 written on it. I thought that simply replacing it might sort the problem (I had a spare one), but it's made no difference at all. If I remove the component, the noise goes away, but when it's fitted, every time I activate the door switch it makes a 'weeee' sound, a bit like a rusted hinge being forced open. So - I now know where it's coming from, but I'm still none the wiser as to why!

Burst hose?

I have a strange problem with my D1 - whenever one of the doors is closed (or at least the door switch is operated), a relay at the right end of the dash (above and behind the steering wheel) goes mental for about half a second, making like a sort of 'wheee' noise. About the same time that this started happening, I noticed that the illumination on the switch for the heated rear screen was staying on (so I removed it to reduce the risk of a flat battery in the middle of nowhere). Whether two are connected - and I suspect they are, I don't yet know. My initial thought is that they may share a common earth, so that could well have failed. But before delving into the inner recesses of my truck, I thought it'd make sense to see if anyone here knew what the problem might be - so, over to you guys... As ever, any help would be most appreciated!

Thanks, but this is, apparently, a factory-made hole - I saw it referred to in LRO a couple of years back, but have never managed to find it!

I've read about there being a hole somewhere under the windscreen seal that causes rain to leak into the interior. Despite looking for it on several occasions though, I've never found it. For some time I thought it was the sun roof, but after completely sealing it in place with Sikaflex, the leak was still there. I then thought I'd found it this week when doing some MOT welding - there were large pieces of metal missing behind the wing, just in front of the A post. But, after re-panelling the whole area and then seam sealing it, I still have water coming in. So - it's back to looking for this mythical leak-point - any help in locating it would therefore be most appreciated!

I bought a genuine one in the end as I had to go to D44 for a new front prop for the Disco!

Thanks for your thoughts - I did look at the lrworkshop website, but the latch assembly from there (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8242/MUC6457-BONNET-SAFETY-HOOK.html) works out at just shy of £25 by the time you've added VAT and postage, which seemed a bit much. If all else fails, I will go for it though!

As part of my 'extensive' rebuild of my 110, I decided to buy a new bonnet catch as the nasty old one sticks out like a sore thumb. The replacement came from the blue box people... While I appreciate that they're improving the quality of their parts by leaps and bounds, the item I got was so shoddy that I would be embarrassed to use it on a lawnmower. The metal is not much thicker than that found on a drinks can, and if I was in a bad mood I could crush it with one hand. I've got a couple of old genuine ones that I could sandblast, but the assembly itself has a spring in the middle, which because it's riveted together, you can't strip (well, not easily). Consequently, you'd never be able to do a thorough job, which would make a mockery of the whole thing. There is a 'new' genuine one on the Bay of Evil, but looking at the photos it's almost as rusty as the ones I have here. There are absolutely loads of others for sale too, but most of them don't say what make they are. As far as I can see, this is the list of options: Britpart Bearmach Allmakes Land Rover The first and the last I know about, so I would be most grateful if anyone has knowledge regarding the quality of the Bearmach and Allmakes items!

Excellent stuff - well done! :)

I suggest that you fit an extension pipe to the drain with an easily-accessible tap so that you can empty the water out of the tank nice and easily - I do mine every time I use it as the air is horrendously wet at this time of year!

Well done to those who helped out!

Thanks for posting this - it's always interesting to see how other people do such things, especially when they're better than you - that car he was working on looked awesome!

It looks like a nice piece of kit - do you know the make/model? If so, it might help someone come up with a manual!

Excellent stuff - let us know how you get on!

I thought you said you were OCD? If so, where are the clamps on the hoses?

I've not tried the system in anger yet - but it did turn on without tripping anything when I tested it. I suspect that the serial tripping was caused, as you suggested, by the sudden 'jolt', and that cascaded down the line - I don't think there was anything wrong. with the B16 MCB. As far as I'm aware, everything is earthed throughout on the same circuit. You are quite right though - the key point is that it seems to be working!

Well - my C16 MCB arrived about 15 minutes ago - I fitted it and, Hey Presto - my TIG fired straight up without any faffing about, for the first time since I bought it about 10 years ago - woohoo!

Er - thanks, but given the distance involved, I think I'll give that a pass!

Yes, I agree!