Paddy_SP

Well, as it's a brand new galvanised chassis, I decided it'd be better to hammer it flat so as not to expose any virgin steel. Anyway - I'm pleased to say that my rad now goes in - all I've got to do now is a) figure out how to avoid it clashing with the intercooler pipes, and b) work out a mounting system for it!

Thank you to you both - your efforts are much appreciated - off to get the hacksaw now!

Ah - that's what I wanted to hear! It's in the way of the full-width rad that I want to install, so it would be really handy if it was surplus to requirements...

Many thanks for taking the time to reply, but I don't think that's correct - a) because I've already fitted the slam panel supports (they're quite a bit further forward), and b) because there isn't a corresponding mount on the other side!

I'm in the process of building up my Defender from a bare chassis, and I can't remember what is meant to mount on the vertical bracket that sits behind the left side of the rad (200Tdi Defender 110), as per the arrow in this diagram: I'd therefore be most grateful if someone were kind enough to let me know!

Thanks, but having just made a whole set of new stainless pivot pins and bushes, I can't face the idea of scrapping all my hard work... I'm now considering making a third, central rib for the pedal so that the spring can be fooled into thinking it's on the correct type of arm!

Yes, it is exactly that - as you say, the wording suggests that it should fit all models, but I'm damned if I can work out how the spring can go around a U-shaped arm!

Thanks - I must admit to still being completely in the dark as to what is going on with my pedal though!

Many thanks for your reply - my chassis number is LA939855xx, so it's as you say, one of the last ones. What I don't get, however, is why the advert states that it should fit everything from 1983 on - that's ten years before my Defender was made! The kit didn't come with a pedal, by the way - it was just a spring and three pieces of plastic to go on the ends. PS - I was slow in replying because I can't get this site to work in Google Chrome - it's fine on Firefox!

I decided to buy a 'Clutch Helper Spring' kit, so ordered one online. It duly arrived this morning - but when I examined everything, something seemed wrong. I therefore did an online search, and it appears that my clutch pedal is unlike the ones everyone else seems to have... The main beam on mine is 'U' shaped, as opposed to being a single flat bar like most of the others. Mine is a '93 200Tdi Station Wagon with the chassis number SALLDHMF7LA93xxxx. So - I have two questions: 1. Has a previous owner retro-fitted a different pedal, or was this one a standard fitment? 2. Is there a fix for the helper spring? As ever, any help would be much appreciated!

Well - I got the truck up on the lift this morning, and had a good poke about. The rear prop was OK, but I swapped it for another as the doughnut was beginning to split. I then checked the front prop, which should have been fine as I fitted a new one less than two years ago. Guess what - the UJ at the transfer box end was knackered on one axis - it felt OK when I tried moving it by hand, but when I rotated it through 90 degrees, it wobbled about like a mad thing. At least I know what's wrong now...

Thanks for the pointer - I should have said, however, that I've got an X-Brake disc handbrake!

Thanks - that's a good suggestion.

My '97 D1 300Tdi has developed a strange shudder which seems to occur only between about 26 and 32 mph. It does it in all the gears, and only when under load - if I freewheel it at the same speed, it's as smooth as a smooth thing. It feels like an engine or gearbox mount, but they appear fine. I've grabbed and twisted all the obvious chassis bits, and they all seem fine too. It feels in a way like a wheel or prop weight has fallen off, but as the shudder disappears when it's out of gear, it's unlikely to be either of those. I was therefore wondering if anyone here has experienced the same issue?

Yes, I agree that it could be the culprit, but the screwdriver-to-ear test suggests that it's fine - I'm fully prepared to eat my words, however! Fortunately, I have a reasonably well-equipped machine-shop, so I should be able to do as you did and knock up an alternative bearing mount. Fingers crossed that it doesn't come to that though!

Thanks - I've ordered a new OEM water pump together with a 'P' gasket, as well as an FAG 6203-2RS bearing in case it turns out to be the tensioner rattling. I've got a s/h alternator sitting on my parts shelf, so if it's that I can do something about it. Fingers crossed that I can sort this out once and for all!

My 300 Tdi D1 has been making an awful 'brick loose in the sump' type of noise for some time. It's not consistent - that is it comes and goes every few seconds. It's been getting worse, but try as I might, I cannot find the source. Yesterday I pulled the rocker cover off and checked the valve shims and clearances. All the shims were fine, but the tappets needed tightening a little. I didn't expect this to cure the problem, and needless to say it didn't. Today, I therefore set out on a different course of action - I checked the crank bolt was tight and then removed the serpentine belt, at which point the noise disappeared. So - it's one of four possible things: 1) The belt tensioner (relatively new BM item, but the bearing feels a bit loose) 2) The water pump (relatively new BM item, but feels fine) 3) The alternator (unknown age, but feels fine) 4) The viscous fan pulley (unknown age, but feels fine - the fan has been removed from it for some years) As soon as I refitted the belt, the noise was back. I've done the screwdriver to the ear test which suggests that it's probably either the water pump or alternator as the bearings in the tensioner and fan pulley were quiet. So - my question is this - has anyone here ever experienced a loud 'brick loose in the sump' type of noise from either of these items? I'd have expected to hear the usual high-pitched squealing sound, but it's nothing like that! As ever, any help would be much appreciated...

Thanks, Gentlemen - my Disco is a '97 300Tdi D1. The reason the fuel didn't cut out is that I've removed all the alarm-associated electronic junk from the solenoid!

I was driving home from a pest control session late the other night when I hit an unseen pothole. There was an almighty crash as my HD suspension did its job, but the bang set my hazards off. Since I was about to drive through a town centre with firearms on board, I didn't want to attract any unnecessary attention. I therefore pulled over, switched the ignition off, and started the old girl back up again. Luckily, all was fine, but it still concerns me - rather than have it happen again, I'd like to trace the cause - if anyone would be kind enough to point me at things to check, I'd be most grateful!

Many thanks - that is most helpful!

I noticed last night that my 300Tdi Disco 1 had started to rattle in 3rd gear. It's sweet as anything in all the other gears, but despite endless searches on here and via Google, I can't find anything that is similar to this problem. It makes the noise whether it's under load or not - it even rattles if I coast it with the clutch in. It's obvious from the number of threads on various websites that loads of people have had issues with 5th - mostly due to a history of extensive towing, and a few have had problems with 4th. But I've found nothing about 3rd! So - my question is simply, can anyone here please help me by coming up with a diagnosis?

Thanks, Chaps - I was wondering if it might be a turbo issue. I've already checked the I/C hoses over (they're not very old), but will do so again.

I tried posting this in the Discovery forum, but didn't get anywhere - as this is a generic 300Tdi issue, I thought I'd try again here: I had to drive from mid-Devon to Bristol yesterday morning to collect some three-phase cable. Just as I was going over the nasty bit where the M5 curves around the side of what feels like a mini-mountain I had to give it some extra throttle to pass a truck that pulled out in front of me. Instead of the vehicle accelerating, it felt like I'd hit the brakes, and huge amounts of black smoke poured out of the back. Luckily I'd just crested a rise and was able to cruise my way out of trouble on zero throttle, and whilst doing so threaded my way to the inside lane in case an emergency stop was needed - fortunately, it kept going, and I was able to start considering whether it'd make it to the next junction. On light load, the truck seemed OK, so as I only had two junctions to go - and they were close together, I continued on towards my destination. At the next hill though, the problem recurred, and it was so bad that I began to pull over to the hard shoulder. The poor bloke in the tow-truck behind me was completely swamped in black smoke (if it was you, sorry!), and in desperation I worked the throttle in an attempt to see if it made any difference. By then I'd slowed right down, but once again as soon as it was on light load the engine picked up, and I got to the junction without further drama. I collected and paid for my cable, diverted to Bridgewater on the way back where I picked up a Migatronic welder, and by keeping it slow and gentle, made it home. Candidate cuplrits at this stage include an injector failing (but it seemed more aggressive than that) or a fuel pump problem. I'd rather have guidance from someone who had experience of the issue, however, so I'd be most grateful for any suggestions or helpful comments! Vehicle: R reg 300Tdi Disco 1, non-electronic throttle version, EGR blanked off.

Many thanks for the suggestion, but all seems well with the I/C pipes!

I had to drive from mid-Devon to Bristol this morning to collect some three-phase cable. Just as I was going over the nasty bit where the M5 curves around the side of what feels like a mini-mountain I had to give it some extra throttle to pass a truck that pulled out in front of me. Instead of the vehicle accelerating, it felt like I'd hit the brakes, and huge amounts of black smoke poured out of the back. Luckily I'd just crested a rise and was able to cruise my way out of trouble on zero throttle, and whilst doing so threaded my way to the inside lane in case an emergency stop was needed - fortunately, it kept going, and I was able to start considering whether it'd make it to the next junction. On light load, the truck seemed OK, so as I only had two junctions to go - and they were close together, I continued on towards my destination. At the next hill though, the problem recurred, and it was so bad that I began to pull over to the hard shoulder. The poor bloke in the tow-truck behind me was completely swamped in black smoke (if it was you, sorry!), and in desperation I worked the throttle in an attempt to see if it made any difference. By then I'd slowed right down, but once again as soon as it was on light load the engine picked up, and I got to the junction without further drama. I collected and paid for my cable, diverted to Bridgewater on the way back where I picked up a Migatronic welder, and by keeping it slow and gentle, made it home. Candidate cuplrits at this stage include an injector failing (but it seemed more aggressive than that) or a fuel pump problem. I'd rather have guidance from someone who had experience of the issue, however, so I'd be most grateful for any suggestions or helpful comments! Vehicle: R reg 300Tdi Disco 1, non-electronic throttle version