Eightpot
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Posts posted by Eightpot
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anything will be good after the howl of G90's! if you've still got the n/a engine, maybe best not to go any taller as you'll affect gearing. 235/85 are a good swap, same height and a bit wider. Common size so easy to come by as well.
I really liked Cooper Discoverer AT or STT, Kumho KL71 - these have a very wide shoulder compared to others, only downside is they are directional. Goodyear Wrangler and BF Goodrich are great as well, loads of choice. Only thing I would personally avoid is the cheap mega knobbly Amazons, Grizzly claws etc, but if your weekends are spent in quarries then probably a good option.
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It's quite an easy job to fit the power steering, you just need to swap the crank pulley if you don't have a twin pulley one, remove the alternator and it's bottom bracket, then fit the power steering bracket using the bolt holes for the alternator bracket you just took off (couple of bolts going in from the front and one that will be slightly hidden by muck which goes in from the side)
the alternator then locates onto the power steering bracket you just fitted.
A high pressure hose runs from pump to box, a feed hose runs from reservoir to pump, and a return runs from steering box to reservoir.
Fit a v-belt to power steering, set tensioning, fill with fluid and enjoy girly motoring
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I wouldn't rate a roof tent for a long trip either, aside from the daily chore, they get covered in dust and bugs which then gets all over you. Being inconspicuous is a very desirable thing at times, and being able to just get in the back, take a seat and get a brew on can really lift a bad day.
As has been said, a defender ambulance is a great choice, I would steer away from built in toilets and showers as you really dont need them, people the world over use them and you will find plenty about. The thing my missus found absolutely invaluable was a plastic medical wee bottle/jug thing for the odd occasion when the loos were too gross or there was no bush : )
I did tee in a water hose with shower head off my water pump which gave a cracking outdoor shower, but probably used it three times in a year.
For info, withams have a pulse ambulance on their auction site at the moment.
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You need to balance a lot of compromises when building something like this, but as a rule and in my experience it's best to keep the overall size to a minimum and keep the weight down as much as you possibly can. Defenders in particular get quite ungainly with a lot of weight high up, I'm reminded of a friends very expensive new defender built by a specialist german company which rolled over with disastrous consequences after it hit a pothole on an adverse camber on a dirt road- it had way to much weight up top.
personally I would stay away from roll cages and just make the machine as stable as possible with a low CoG by clever design. Weight also gets you bogged down and adds to chassis stress on bad roads. 130's are more prone to this.
If your intended route takes in Africa/middle east, spare a thought for your comfort at night as well - cosy upstairs bunks are great in chilly Europe, but when it's over 40 degrees outside and humid as hell it's a godsend to have plenty of air around you, lots of ventilation and good fans (also bear in mind provision for mosquito nets if you're going into affected regions.)
As Mike says it's a great idea to go to the overland show to get some tips on practical issues, but so long as you keep things real simple you can't go too far wrong (also worth remembering they have shops/tools and materials in the rest of the world, so if you've forgot something you have plenty of time on your hands.. )
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The black thing? It's a throttle position sensor isn't it - I normally declutter the engine and take them off.
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Synthetic enamel is normally a 1k paint, no hardener. A litre thinned down 15% with white spirit or fast flash thinners should do the job.
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Yes you would. If you dont have corrosion at the top of the footwell you can get a smaller panel.
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The engine loom is dead easy, only bit that can vary is the alternator plug, but you can use normal spade/ring crimped connectors onto the back of the alternator.
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Your best bet is either at autojumbles at LR shows or Newbury sortout. You might well get lucky on ebay, they do come up for sale quite regularly, but as you've found aren't that cheap - they are a better bet than going for series style with the vertical window as the slanted ones give more arm room for topping up your truckers tan,
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Yep, those are the clips - if that bit can be wobbled about it will let the bottom shoe drag and bounce off the drum.
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Sounds more like a turbo hose has split or become dislodged, maybe when you changed the air filter?
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does the engine cut out straight away, like you've turned the ignition off, or does it fade out like you've run out of fuel?
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Have you asked on the hubb forum? May well find someone who has shipped to India on there.
Shipping itself will be straightforward, you will be doing all the work at this end, you just need a clearing agent to do the customs admin in mumbai.
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On the handbrake subject, the handbrake cable attaches to a metal lever on the front face of the handbrake drum.
This lever and its parts should sit firmly in the handbrake drum - it is held in place by thin metal clips. Sometimes these break or rust away allowing the lever mechanism to move up and down a little, which then lets the brake shoes move even when the handbrake lever is fully off - this will make the brake grab as you describe.
look for the metal rod coming out of the handbrake drum, it comes through a small metal block with a rubber cover - this is the part you need to make sure is firm, not the rod. Hope that makes sense!
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Apply some heat to the nut using a small blowtorch, turning the fan a bit as you go to even it out and stop the plastic fan getting too hot.
This normally makes all the difference. Either carefully carefully lever a screwdriver Between pulley and pump or use a thin bar or screwdriver in the hole in the side of the fan pulley to give extra leverage.
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No, the steering box will self centre while you drive. If the drag link hasn't been set accurately and is a little too long it pushes the wheels across to the left, meaning the car is always steering left a bit - you are countering this by always steering to the right.
You probably only need twp or three turns on the track rod end to correct it.
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Maybe try shortening the drag link a tad then and see if that reduces the pull to the left? I've had similar symptoms when using different boxes and a little adjustment sorted it. It's a quick one to try anyways.
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Just wondering if your replacement steering box may have been of a different type to the original?
Is it possible the centreline of the drop arm is a little different to the original, pushing the drag link over slightly? Was the drag link adjusted?
I would start from square one, centre the box, set drag link length, set tracking and see if anything changes.
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yep similar thing on the tdi pump, black metal & plastic housing with a little circuit board inside surrounding the normal solenoid.
This is the 'stop' solenoid, once you've smashed the casing off, just put an ignition 12v to it.
The other solenoid (on Isuzu) is the cold start device which advance the ignition.
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It's probably just a dealer/trader hoping to pick something up for a reasonable price - the time to worry is when someone turns up in a transit tipper and leather loafers
If your car was going to get nicked they probably wouldn't approach you at all, though there are some brazen people about..
I had to empty out the scrap bin the other day and took it down to the local metal merchants - I was amazed to see an F reg Td 90 in there - it was scruffy alright, but I've revived worse - just as I was about to ask if I could buy some bits off it, the wrecker came along and smashed it to bits
Got talking to to one of the managers who said they'd had a few weighed in recently, last ones were R and P regs! baring in mind you only get £300 quid scrap you can't imagine why anyone would do it, though I know one of them was taken there on a flatbed transit as they came to my unit and offered it to me on the way there...
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Its an old problem - never accept paypal as payment for high value goods, particularly from anyone in another country.
The money would indeed be paid into your account, the car collected and then the buyer applies for a full refund which paypal will give them. Ebay and paypal always side with the buyer.
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Definitely a new master cylinder, the bores do get worn and there may also be bits of corrosion and debris in the ends of the bores - put a new seal in, pump the pedal to bleed the brakes again and you're back to square one.
If you do fit a new master you need to bench bleed it first or get the car on an angle to get all the air out - plenty of info on the web.
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Could be master cylinder - the seals inside might have picked up a little damage if you bled the brakes by pumping the pedal rather than using a vacuum or pressure bleeder.
Could be caused by a slight ridge on the cylinder where the pushrod normally goes back and forth - going beyond this when pumping the pedal may damage an old seal very slightly
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Good point, you'd need to get a box from a v8 disco. No need to mess with heater or dash etc as the gearstick comes up further back not forwards by about 4 inches.
The other good thing is getting rid of the horrible multi link handbrake mechanism and swapping it for the nice simple disco one. ten times better.
Power steering fitting instruction for 2.5n/a
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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The ffr pulley is different, it has a larger second pulley. The power steering pulley should be the same diameter as the water pump/alternator pulley. Might work, but will turn your pump slower.