Eightpot
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Posts posted by Eightpot
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For regular use, the standard LR or Armstrong ones really are fine.
I haven't found the mid range stuff worth the extra so far, but if you have a use for heavy duty ones and never want to buy shocks again, another +1 for Koni.
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you will need a R380 short V8 bellhousing, as your LT85 one won't bolt to an R380. I believe Ashcrofts will be able to help with one of these.
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I had OME HD springs on my overland truck, which at times of course was very heavy indeed - a 1.5 ton load on the way back, thanks in part to buying a full set of hardwood garden furniture in Kenya : )
The springs gave about a 2" lift from standard ride height. For most of the time I had 130 inner springs inside as well. The handling with both springs was very good - I could still throw the car into corners and it hardly rolled (no anti roll bars). The only problem for me was that on really harsh ground, and under full compression the springs were then too hard, and eventually it cracked my chassis. I was going over very extreme terrain though, and usually quite fast : ) so maybe not a problem you'll have.
The ride height at all times was fine, and importantly it didn't compress much when all the weight was in.
I removed the inner springs eventually to stop the chassis snapping, roll certainly increased but it was a more comfortable ride.
The Koni Heavy Trak shocks helped as well, and I certainly noticed the difference when I fitted some standard oil filled shocks on the rear.
Hope that helps
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I would also vote for a rear anti roll bar and Old Man Emu HD springs. I think double springs may be better if you need to remove the camper body ocasionally, but if it's a permanent fixture then you should just use the appropriately rated spring in my opinion.
Also think about the shocks, as they will need to be able to cope with the weight and give some reesistance to rolling. I have found Koni heavy trak very good for this, and can be adjusted. Old Man Emu would also be good.
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The last time I had to do one by moving the gearbox back it didn't want to go all the way on either. After a good few hours I just got fed up with it, grabed hold of the chassis rails, put both boots on the back of the gearbox and rammed it forward with a jiggle with all my might and it slid on with annoying ease.
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I'd get the front up on axle stands and rotate the wheels by hand - should help you determine the source of the noise or feel if one wheel is a bit notchy/grindy when you turn it - might have got a bit of grit or metal in the grease when you changed a bearing.
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I stripped a couple of threads round the water pump recently and was able to use a longer bolt to get to good thread.
Really need to make sure the gasket face is clean and flat, use a new gasket - I've found RTV gets washed out of the joint quite quickly, and check that the leak isn't between the block and tiimg case rather than timing case and pump - I had a problem here once when repairing a snapped bolt, which left a tiny burr which meant the timing case cover didn't lie totally flat.
And yeah, sounds like your timing is slightly off so just redo it while you've got the front stripped off again.
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You could drill out the spot welds on your existing filler assembly, move it to a new location and then blank off the hole at the rear?
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I always fit decent rock sliders on any Defender I own, purely to provide some kind of side protection. Looking carefully at junctions helps as well
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Maybe also an airlock in the system.
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I bypassed one recently by removing the immobiliser from the fuel pump.
Not information we need to be too concerned about handing to thieves as it took about an hour with a hammer and cold chisel - not something you could discretely do on a car park.
The small black box on the back of the fuel pump with the wires coming out has a small circuit board inside, and the box is clamped around a standard fuel solenoid. If you chisel away at the box and smash the casing away, you should start to see the small sheer bolts inside - work away at those and eventually it will start to give in and you can prise bits of it away leaving the fuel solenoid, and its single wire which you can wire to an ignition live to
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Using either housing is fine, and probably the same amount of work.
If you put the earlier housing on, you will need to replace the crank rear oil seal as well, but not a bad idea to do it if you keep the TDi housing anyway I guess.
template idea as above is a good method for finding which studs need to be removed, and trial fit the engine and mark out the extra couple of holes that need to be drilled/tapped. It's an easy conversion, just need to get the new mounts in the right place.
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There's a very informative guide to the workings of the Bosch VE pumps here which you might find usefull
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it will be an LT95 - a noisy& heavy old box but will take a lot of abuse and handle a lot of torque.
plenty crop up on ebay for not a great deal of money.
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Exhaust pipe works well for a home made intercooler tube as well - I normally use a n/a tailpipe to make the run from the turbo to intercooler on 300TDi conversions as it's the right diameter and has perfect bends in it.
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Agriemach have a few lines that might help - exhaust wrap and insulation etc
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When I did my trans-Africa, I had Koni heavy trak fitted to the rear (where most of the weight was), and they outlasted two sets of new front shocks (first was deCarbon, second was terrafirma adventure) and are still going strong now.
if they could be snapped, I probably would have snapped them. In fact on one very long road that had the most vicious, eye watering and soul destroying corrugations I have ever had the displeasure of having to perambulate, one of the Konis punched a neat hole through the lower shock mount rather than break. It then, being loose to swing about, swung pointing forward and was jabbed into every corrugation for ten miles before I noticed. All of which had no effect.
overlapped your reply - they are expensiveshort term but very good VFM in the long run I'd say.
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Uh oh, it was Tata who are developing the compressed air powered car, and - err, if this is the future maybe I'm not so eager anymore..
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Was reading somewhere, think it was one of the Land Rover comics, about someone developing a compressed air powered car - like a massive airtool, but with an air tank filled to a zillion psi. Doesn't seem like it wold be quite as efficient as an electric car, but I reckon it wold sound pretty cool
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Well I'm looking forward to a total stepchange in car design, which I don't think can be too far off now?? Occurs to me that all the problems we can read into many current designs are there because it's all based on a 100+ year old principle at the pinacle of its development (with probably not much further to go??) and simply too much is being squeezed into a small space and it must be getting really hard for designers & manufacturers to bring together whats expected and cost/practicality.
It'll be awesome when someone comes up with a good power source for an electric car, which I think will really open the doors for some inovative design again and a change in thinking (people weigh ~85Kg, why do we need 3000Kg machines to move us??)
might enable manufacturers to break away from this trend which says they can only add extra equipment/weight/make cars bigger/more complicated and not simplify.
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Maybe suggest being taken out for beers and a curry instead and chalk one up in the favour bank for a later date.
I'd find it a bit wierd taking cash of a mate unless you've had to shell out on parts etc.
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Your new bit o pipe is going to be wider diameter and with different flanges on, as it does sound like you have the thinner bore TD/petrol/N/a exhaust system on the car.
You could fit a 200tdi downpipe (or maybe a 300tdi one depending on how long your pipe is - look at the diagrams on paddocks for reference), and then the cheapest tailpipe is probably going to be a ESR4527. your centre mount may not line up anymore, but pop down to halfords and pick up one of thier universal exhaust hanger kits, and that should sort you out.
At this point, you might not be thinking your bit o pipe was a bargain, but you'll probably notice a bit more poke with a better exhaust system. And it will be much shinier.
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Hope this is useful - I don't have any Defenders with an ariel mount at the moment but this should help - position isnt critical as long as those metal plates are able to fit behind the body
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Back end of a hydrovane, middle bit of a Caterham and the front of a Chevette.
Fuel Pipes - 300tdi Conversion
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
200Tdi ones will be the closest fit, 300Tdi won't fit.
Easiest route if you have a discovery breakers to hand is just buy the length of hose from tank to pump for a few quid, then you have more than enough to fit.
you could also buy regular fuel hose of the right diameter and good hose clamps.