Eightpot
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Posts posted by Eightpot
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Duh - you're right, the thing was so packed up with gunk and old grease it actually looked like a different part!
Got it all off now, I just needed to use force level 9 to seperate the cases.
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I'm removing a mechanical PTO Superwinch from a 110 (not sure of winch type, fitted to an old ex utility truck), and trying to remove the transfer box as well.
I have all the winch bits and PTO unit removed, but can't get the transfer box off as there is a dog gear attached to the back of the input shaft, stopping the box sliding off.
It looks like it simply unscrews off the shaft - I've tried turning it with a set of stilsons up to force level 5, and nothing's budging - don't want to go to mental in case I break a tooth
Can anyone shed any light on how this gear is attached??
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Halfords used to sell ribbed flexi hose of different lengths and diameters which was perfect, could be bent past 90 degrees without problems, though they seem to have deleted it as a stock item now - you would probably find one at an old school local motor parts shop.
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Buy a length of radiator hose?
otherwise when I'm doing a conversion. I normally use the top hose from a n/a engine which just fits.
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I would also suggest that you clean the chassis very aggressively, starting with a wire cup brush in an angle grinder, and also using grinding discs where necessary to clean back to clean metal. If small holes are appearing all over, then not good, but if it's just small areas at the rear of the chassis, get the welder out.
You may find that the damage is very local, and by cutting back to good metal, you can weld in new pieces to make a strong repair.
Rusty chassis always look terrible with big chunks of rust on, but I have successfully rescued chassis that look the same as that - I don't agree that they always rust from the inside out, in my experience, especially where salt spray is responsible, it tends to be outside the chassis. A chassis filled with mud will of course rust from the inside though.
You will be surprised how much better it will look after a damn good clean (it will take a few days of very dirty work) and a repaint.
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Check the lever is operating correctly first - remove the transmission tunnel cover and when you can see the drivers side of the gearbox, move the hi-low lever forward and back and check the operating rods are moving and pivoting correctly, and the selector shaft into the transfer box is moving nicely.
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The relay in the fuse area sends power to the starter motor solenoid, which in turn fires up the starter motor..
On top of the starter motor is a white/red wire which powers the solenoid - if you have a multimeter you can check to see if voltage is getting here when you turn the key. If so, solenoid may be sticking - try banging it with something while key is turned.
if no voltage, there is a problem between this wire and the relay in the fuse area.
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presuming you have a 2.5n/a diesel engine, you need the following:
power steering box - ideally from a Defender with swan neck drop arm, otherwise you have to swap the drop arm (PITA) or modify steering drag link.
Power steering pump from n/a or TD defender
power steering reservoir
the bracket which holds the pump to the engine
pipework
a different crank pulley - needs two grooves, both same diameter
power steering belt
rough cost £100, takes a few hours to do.
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Doh! Sorry, didn't realise this was posted in Discovery forum, so ignore the bit about adjusting the heater cable.
Do check the thermostat though as the gauges aren't mega acurate - I recently took a Disco 300TDi engine out and fitted it to a Defender, using a digital temp gauge. When fitted in the Disco, the temp guage sat at normal - in the Defender my digital gauge showed it was running at 65-70 degrees.
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The heaters are pretty decent if set up properly - I would double check the thermostat, or just replace it as they don't cost many $$ anyway - plus I find the standard temp gauges read normal over a fairly wide range. In fact didn't LR fit a gadget to US spec cars to forcibly make the gauge read normal??
In really cold weather, presumably the top hose shouldn't be getting very hot as the thermostat shouldn't let hot water pass.
You also need to check the heater controls are working correctly. The temperature selection lever on the dash operates a valve on the heater by a moving cable. Move the lever to 'hot' then check the control arm on top of the heater box in the engine bay - are you able to rotyate the lever arm any more? If so, undo the small pinch bolt, and adjust the cable so it moves correctly to its end position. That normally does the trick.
Also check you have both fan speeds working correctly.
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Take a look at one day insurance - I used to use it to collect cars from auction. RAC are good, normally around £20 for 24 hours insurance (probably varies a bit with age/location I guess)
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They are a very good all round tyre, agree about the mud thing, there are better tyres around if you spend most of your time in thick mud, but they are excellent on sand, rocks, snow and wet roads. They seem to last a long time as well - given the choice I would by another set.
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I haven't managed to break an LT77 yet, am I doing something wrong?? TDi's aren't exactly mind blowing in terms of power, i don't see why you would need to change unless you drive unsympatheticaly, but if someone gave me an R380 I guess I'd do the swap.
But if you are an unsympathetic driver, then maybe weigh up the cost of a replacement LT77 which can be had for peanuts against an R380..
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I was going to say this is off-topic, but on second thoughts I guess it does belong on a pass the bucket thread
Surely something to buy for the LR owner who has everything - here - thoughtfully fitted with a seat belt so you can perch the wife on it in transit, or maybe for particularly biblical expulsions...
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I normally use a piece of stout street furniture and a tow strap, but you could put a recovery strap round the bumper and attach it to someones recovery point and gently reverse it out. Engage brains before doing this or you may be straightening out more than a bumper
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I had an Isuzu 2.8 sourced from a Frontera (more powerful than troopy version), and with a big intercooler and a couple of light tweeks it was awesome.
I've had to change back to a 300Tdi now as I mullered the 4 speed box the Isuzu was mated to (nothing to do with the engine), and the difference in torque is huge. It's a comparable step down to changing from a TDi to n/a engine.
The Isuzu is a very compact engine as well and fits nicely in a LR engine bay, more room to work around than with a TDi.
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They are just standard old-skool military 90's & 110's that went through a full refurb process and had some safety and comfort features added - roll cage, better seats, wright off road rubber mat etc. Was cheaper than buying another batch of Wolfs.
Unless you want one in particular, better buying a standard ex-mod 110 as you will pay a premium for a Titenhous as collectors/military buffs want them.
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Went last year and it was a much smaller event than newbury - turnout was good, many familiar faces onthe trade stands.
was worth the afternoon for me being fairly local, wouldn't make a long journey to get to it though.
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Sureterm Direct, Roadsure, Lancaster and Adrian flux do 4x4 and ex Military policies - ask them to run against both types to see which works out cheaper.
beware that some of the policies, while cheap, don't count towards no claims bonus, so check if it's important.
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Don't forget the catalytic convertor is worth about £50 scrap if it still has the exhaust.
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Don't know if it may help, but I drew up some measurements (here) which are accurate for installing 300TDi with LT77.
The measurements are from the rear face of the factory chassis mounts on a N/A chassis, so they should be able to use that to get the position right.
As you've noticed, there is an offset, the holes on the chassis brackets need to be at different distances from the chassis rail to get the engine straight.
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Purely in the interest of providing balance and assisting a buying decision, I have used Britpart brake discs and drums, and can confirm that the particular items I inadvertantly received and foolishly went on to fit, were very badly machined, did not line up, the drums weren't even circular and did not operate correctly.
Quite a feat for a round metal disc with four 'oles in it.
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abrasive poly discs like these will quickly remove paint, hammerite, rust etc without cutting the metal. Just used one to de-hammerite a range rover engine bay and it took about 30 mins.
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heat with a blow torch and squirt some Plusgas on - should release the brake pipe from the nut easily enough, caliper bolt will be a bit harder as the whole caliper will act as a heatsink, but plusgas works wonders.
Help with info on Superwinch removal..
in International Forum
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Yep, I think that was the problem - a teeny bit of wear on the splines...