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mikeh501

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  1. thats fair enough but cant see why you wouldnt at least get it idling right and generally behaving otherwise surely hes going to be second guessing all over again once its back together. if it was me it would certainly make me feel better too lol
  2. Sounds like your on a new track to hopefully getting it sorted..... would it not be worth getting it running well as is and ironing out the multitude of issues your having before stripping it? You wont want to be doing all that second guessing and worrying once its back together. just a thought
  3. I think I’d just get it running something like before you start another engine rebuild lol. At least it will make you feel better! If you can get idling and running ok you’ve got so much more idea what else needs doing
  4. whats the MAT KPA showing after youve sealed it up in tunerstudio? if its a different value it will be using a different cell in your VE table; if that cell is quite different from what it was using before then voila thats why. when diagnosing these issues on mine i had the laptop on it all the time and theres some stuff you can only diagnose using the laptop and looking at what the efi is doing.
  5. just remove the whole lot of pipework and put your hand over the throttle butterfly as the piping to the wing could be well leaky. Also, your tunerstudio MAP KPA is pretty low so I doubt theres much of a leak there. When mine had a leak (near the 3mm barb I was reading around 80kpa with the engine idling (remember 100 is atmospheric). I think I also said last time that your VE values looked high to me (you cant compare directly but still). Given youve said you definately do not have a PWM valve then its a matter of playing about with the idle air screw on top of the plenum and the VE table on and around the cells where its tending to idle. Trial and error until you have it about right. Once its idling ok you can move onto sorting the rest of the VE table and everything else but until you do its probably going to buck like a bronco and be unpleasant to drive. Also the timing of events in starting/idling and when it dies can be a clue. The timing can indicate where to look. i.e. cranking>ASE>WUE etc. I know I mentioned it last time..... but stick some new plugs in and get the lambda sorted. If the plugs are fouled its like having both arms tied behind your back at this point lol, and lambda can turn it from bad to ok just by itself.
  6. Yeah it was a mare lol. I’ve got it half decent now and just tweaking for driveability. Completely redid my ve table last few days so I’ve got more cells where the engine spends most of its time. Also realised I’ve never actually done AE properly as I didn’t understand what to do. I can tell you that even small changes make sooo much difference in drive ability of the engine. I know others get away with no PWM but I’ve got it working and it’s much better for it. Would pretty much stall when using winch and had to tickle the throttle to do idle pull aways and I can do both now with no trouble. if you ever want a chat or someone to look at your tuner studio and ask stupid questions let me know
  7. unless you've done it already id just turn off he lambda. take literally 30 seconds. theres an easy way of setting idle in the MS instructions too to get it more sensible. good luck with the MOT. I was worrying too but mine flew through and mine is 94 so needed cats!
  8. did you manage to fix your MAT and lambda?
  9. Just as an update.... the hunting at cold idle has turned out to be the PWM closed loop idle settings. Whats happening is that as it cycles from around 400-1900 revs its trying to catch it using the PWM. The problem is that the PWM is over compensating by opening too much/fast, then the revs shoot up and it then tries to compensate too far the other way resulting in this kinda sine wave of idle speeds which calms down over time as it warms up to a rock steady idle when its up to operating temps. What i've done is change the fast recovery time setting and increased it so its not just chasing the idle so much and letting the engine settle. It seems to have improved it but not solved completely. So now as I understand it its opening and closing the valve more slowly than before. Ive also tried the WUW auto tune which recommended I up the WUW buckets which helped a little too.
  10. The lambda wont be helping and its probably buggered due to heat/fuel in your exhaust. For the moment turn off EGO correction as it will be effecting the fuel right now. You do this by going to EGO in basic settings and making it only work over 6000rpm or something. Buy a new one from Nigel. Whilst your there by 16 new spark plugs as these wont be at their best given all your troubles, and a second set once youve got it running happyish. Fix your MAT sensor. It will be delivering more fuel right now. The reading means you dont have continuity, so its likely wiring. BTW - both of the above I had in my build! plus the air leak. The upside is you dont have an obvious air leak! What is your REQ_FUEL in basic settings? your VE table looks pretty high to me. Also are you running a PWM for idle? is it turned on?
  11. Thanks for the comprehensive replies guys. My hot idle and general driveability is now fairly good with just a little more fiddling around AE to really make gear changes really sweet but overall im pretty happy with it. its definately faster than its suspension can handle lol. I understand the ASE and WUE are % additive, and interesting mine are significantly less % than yours, although i know its all relative!! You also prompted me to look at the VE revs and fuel jump between cells. Perhaps I need a another column in there to smooth it out more. I have recently enabled the PWM closed loop idle too, only to ensure my winch doesnt stall the engine which it was nearly doing without it.
  12. Ended up putting a TD5 push rod in and it looks to have completely solved it. 😀 Im pretty happy with how its running now except for warmup. Anybody got some advice in tuning this area. is it just a case of amending the WUW buckets on repeated cold start occassions? My symptoms... * First cold start. Runs then dies after around 5-10 seconds. * Second start immediately after doesnt die, but runs rough until fully warmed up. The rough running is like its missing a little, doenst pick up cleanly and it hunts at idle, from around 800-1300 every few seconds. The hunting calms down as it warms through. Ive periodically upped the WUW buckets now aroudn 30% and ive changed the ASE timer to 30 seconds. Both have made some difference but not sure im headed in the right direction. Can you guys tell me your settings for ASE and WUW?
  13. Also on fuel pressure. do you have a gauge on your regulator? handy to see visually the pressure on the return. Also tells you when its out of petrol lol
  14. I dont think you mentioned this earlier, but what is your MAP KPA showing when its idling? post a pic of tuner studio gauges. need revs, MAP, TPS, coolant temp, AF ratio, EGO enrich. Also screenshot your VE table & EGO control. 100 is atmospheric, i.e. throttle wide open, idling with closed throttle (and PWM and/or TB air bypass letting it idle) should be around 30-40. If its more like 80+ you have an air leak. Run your hand around plenum and can feel it. MS works on MAP KPA and revs. If KPA is high the quantity of fuel is increased. Lumpy running, black smoke, smoking hot manifolds/cats, black plugs and poor running, fuel in oil etc etc all symptons...... Ask me how i know!
  15. Thanks for the help guys. Did some proper miles and tuning this weekend. drive a few miles, logging, review log, tweak, drive, log, tweak. seemed to go well. Plenty of go in it now and picks up cleanly. its very nearly 'right'. The problem I need some advice on. I had a bit of clutch slip with it a couple of weeks ago in 3rd under power which got me worried. Ive since adjusted the master cyliner rod adjuster which was at the very end of its adjustment (nut at end of rod). I wound it back about 1mm and no longer slipping. Now im finding getting into gear can be hit or miss, especially low speed into 1st and reverse. Essentially it feels like the clutch is dragging. It was like this before but slightly better. 2 things... Im thinking the clutch slave rod might be the wrong length? what is the proper length for a r380 v8 rod? Second, I bought a basic/cheapo v8 efI clutch (AP) when i built it. I might whilst the box is out swop it for one from clutchfix or LOFclutches. Which is best? any recommendations?
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