thebiglad

I get about 35mpg on average and more on a longer gentle run, tdi300 auto EDC - De-EGR'd and De-catted.

And how much would postage be to Europe????

Hi guys, just to update you, yesterday I did some strong braking to help the pads bed-in and today went back to the Contrôle Technique place for a brakes retest and SHE PASSED !!!! Interestingly, the first time she got a result of 48% "efficiency", the second time, with no change of any parts she got a reading of 88% !!!! So the bedding-in procedure really is important. Thanks again for your help, Cheers Dave

I use Difflock's Evo2 in the axles and gearbox on my wifes tdi 200 and it runs better and quieter.

Hi Lynall, I don't know what to say, it was there as part of the post from the outset: "Fuel consumption before the downpipe mod was about 33mpg but that was driving with economy as an absolute priority - now I can get that and more driving the car more normally and slightly quicker." But anyway, the important thing is that this cheap mod has made a really big difference - imo

Hi Lynall, see post 7 Cheers Dave

Hi Skanny, it went through it's French mot on the 10th of June and passed the emissions part with flying colours - less than a quarter of the max level permitted, clean runner !!!! Me happy Bunny

Hi there, just to be clear, for these trips on which I'm reporting, the viscous fan had been reinstalled. I took it off again once I was back on home territory where I know there will be no stationary traffic problems. And imo the biggest difference has come about due to the non-cat exhaust downpipe - no doubt in my mind at all. Fuel consumption before the downpipe mod was about 33mpg but that was driving with economy as an absolutel priority - now I can get that and more driving the car more normally and slightly quicker. Cheers Dave

Hi there, just to be clear, for these trips on which I'm reporting, the viscous fan had been reinstalled. I took it off again once I was back on home territory where I know there will be no stationary traffic problems. And imo the biggest difference has come about due to the non-cat exhaust downpipe - no doubt in my mind at all. Cheers Dave

Hi Peasey, my take on the economy drive is to try and ensure that the car runs as well as possible, whilst remaining in standard tune. So, I changed all the fluids, all the filters, all the brakes. De-EGR'd using a new top hose so got rid of all the old EGR plumbing. De-catted using the Defender non-cat downpipe. Taken off the viscous fan, except when I'm doing longer runs and might get involved with traffic. Mine has EDC, because it's an auto, so as far as I'm aware I can't fiddle with the fuelling but that suits me - very happy with how she's running now. Hope that helps Dave

Just to report back on mpg after de-catting my Disco. First tank - 37.2: mix of town 10%, small country roads 25%, 65% faster A roads and autoroutes 60-70mph; Second tank - 34: mainly autoroutes & A roads between 60 to 80mph 575 miles on one tankfull Third tank, have not filled up, just put in 35ltrs, and that took the needle to over half full. So, in conclusion, I expect to average about 35mpg in my day to day running (not much town work) and around 600 miles to a tank is well achievable. OK, throw your rocks, but I know these figures are true. Cheers Dave

Hi Ian thanks for your input. Things have move on a little in diagnosis: 1. Firm pedal pressure so unlikely to be air in system?!; 2. The old discs were ridged and the new pads may not have bedded in fully as I'm a light brakes man, however under the test they did work, balanced but insufficiently; 3. New discs & pads arrived yesterday, so I'll get them on and bedded-in and see where that takes me - I hope that will sort it out as the Pressure valve is over £100 I'll let you know how things turn out Cheers again Dave

Hi all, anyone got any idea of the part number and proper name for the valve in the non-abs braking system of a Disco which apportions braking force between the two axles. I believe it is towards the rear of the car, somewhere near the rear axle and acts like a limiter to ensure that not too much braking force is allowed to the rear axle. I've just had a look on Rave03 & there is something called a "pressure reducing valve". Is this the component which apportions braking power?? I raise this question as my '98 Disco Tdi300 failed it's Contrôle Technique last week due to insufficient rear brakes. I have purchased new discs and pads for the car, I think I may have to replace the calipers also as the new pads I put in a couple of weeks ago did not go in straightforwardly. Many thanks for any advice/help offered. Cheers Dave

Hi Boggy, I think you may be on the right track here, any idea please of a part number /correct title for this piece?? I'll be putting new discs and pads on next week but I want to be sure when I take it back to the Contrôle Technique place, it WILL go through. Cheers Dave

Hi Skanny, I've just back after another trip with my Disco. The stupid thing is that she feels like she is braking really well - but the man from Del Monté he say no !! If you can tell me where to look, I'll have a look tommorrow, re number of inlets and outlets

Hi there EDF, we have over the years used mosts makes of trailor and lorry and can honestly say that the design and execution of our current Cheval Liberté trailor is second to none.. For example, front or rear facing, front or rear unload, at the rear ramp or door opening (really useful!!), options like Pullman suspension which includes helical springs and dampers!! Galvanised chassis, folding jockey wheel etc etc. The rear door option has been a complete revelation to someone like me who has been loading horses on ramps for 25yrs. The site to have a look is here: http://www.cheval-liberte.co.uk/ Hope that helps, Dave

Hi all, well after singing it 's praises my Disco rather let me down today. I had been cleaning and fiddling with her (STEADY ) for a couple of weeks now to ensure a smooth passage (ooh err missus) through the French MOT and oh bother she failed on rear brakes. Apparently they are not powerful enough. I recently cleaned the calipers and put some new pads in and the braking sensation feels really good, but when tested the rears were weak. I've ordered new discs & pads but does anyone have any other ideas as to why the back brakes aren't delivering? Cheers Dave

Hi Jim, I wasn't implying that you were wrong, I was just saying that they look the same, you obviously feel strongly about it so can you help me understand why you believe that the white ones are better??

That's an interesting point you raise there, what do you lubricate them with??

I have the black tank on both the 200 & 300 and neither have given any problems to date . Also, I looked carefully at the white tank and it also has a middle seam, so I'm at a loss to see the advantage??

Well done Tom, I bet you're feeling really chuffed now and so you should, the job you've just done would be several £hundred done by a garage Cheers Dave

Hi Andy, if you disconnect the propshafts, that will allow you to get hold of each in turn and see if you can feel play, this could be in the u/j's and/or the diffs. You could then hold of the the output shafts of the tranny box and feel for play. Put the main box in gear when you do this. You understand, I'm not saying it's not the gearbox that needs replacing, but on these perm 4x4 setups there are soooooh many opportunities for a little bit of wear here and there, that if it's not the gearbox, you could save yourself a packet - and as you said, you are Scottish after all............................................... Cheers Dave

The solution is bury the pedal, really, be quite brutal with it and you'll find it reacts better !!

As they are easy to dismount, I would take off the propshafts either side of the transfer box, so that I could feel for play on each shaft. I think this would tell me if the play is predominently within the gear/transfer box assembly or not. Let me know would you, whilst I think of other stuff to look at.

Hi Andy, can I just ask, what problem is it that you are trying to solve. I only ask this as before you considor spending a load of dosh on a new box, are you absolutely SURE that the box is the problem? Could it be in the transfer box, or even the propshaft U/j's, or maybe even the diff's. How much play are you experiencing? I only pose these questions as you so often see on these forums someone spending loads to resolve a problem, only to find it was something quite cheap and easy, in the end. Trying to help, honest Cheers Dave