thebiglad

That equates to 38mpg !! You must have been really light on the pedal. Theoretically its possible, but its not a realistic basis for judging the fuel consumption of a possible new purchase.

I can't give you an answer I'm afraid, but I will be VERY interested in this thread as I have the same problem and have never managed to get them working again.

Hi Mike, we get 35mpg day in day out from the wifes Tdi 200 manual and I get about 33mpg from my Tdi 300 auto. Yes, I know , people will say its not possible, but it's true. We drive gently, never over 60mph and they are both more than well maintained!!

Hi Andy, I think you might have the wrong end of the stick, the figures 235 & 265 refer in mm to the distance from bead to bead, so not just the width. The other figure for example 75 reperesents the sidewall & is actually a percentage, so if its a 235/75 the 75 would be the 75% of 235 which is......................................... If you go to this site, you can play about with this and see the effects: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html

Hi there, I've just had a look at these tyres on the Kumho website and my first reaction was that I am amazed that you can use these as an every day tarmac road tyre !!! They look sooooh much of a mud tyre I assumed (by the sound of it wrongly!!) that they would be carp on-road with poor wet weather grip and that they would wear out very quickly. I'm not saying you are wrong - I hope you accept that, its just that I'm really surprised at your positive comments for these tyres used on-road. Any more assurances, would be welcomed.

Early Tdi 300 pumps don't have EDC, so they might work. Also, wasn't EDC only on auto-box cars?? If that's the case then manual gearbox 300's would be useful to you.

Thanks Les, that's very kind of you. I was highly motivated to do it myself as I had recieved a quote from a local garage - based on me cleaning out all the old stuff and supplying the new parts - of 600+€ !!!!!

If you lubricate with grease rather than WD40, you'll never need to touch it again. I did my wife's Disco back door 3 yrs ago and it's still perfect now, with loads of grease still in place.

Hi Jon, my wife's Tdi 200 was the same. For a couple of months I pondered learning to weld and various alternative methods for fixing the floor. Anyway after a lot of swithering I DID the floor. Follow the link to my attempt at repair - without welding - on another forum: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=107999 Hope that helps?! Can't remember if I put costs in the article or not so: 1.Boot floor £55 2. Crossmembers times 3 about £35 in total 3 Odd & sods mastic, rivets, angle iron etc £35

I've always found that the first time you try to take the VF off it's difficult but after that, it's straightforward. For the first time I use a std VF coupling spanner and a lump hammer and just give the spanner a sharp tap - and that's usually enough.

...............and his first name was Adam??........................

Hi Mike my name is Dave (thebiglad) and I live in France. I have just spent the last hour and a half reading your messages about your African Adventure - it was truly superb!!!! Please also convey my thanks to Margaret for the messages and pictures. It has REALLY whet my appetite..................you were using a 110 I believe, I have a couple of Disco's, what would YOU think of going on a trip like that in a Disco??

The first thought that comes to mind is WHY - what advantage are you looking for?? or is there something wrong with the current setup?

I completely agree, motorway cruising at 75mph will kill fuel consumption, aerodynamics and all. Just as an experiment cruise at 60mph, it's more relaxing, no trouble with cameras or the 'Law', check your mpg and I'll bet it goes to over 30. And yes, the journey will take you 5 minutes longer - WOW.

Have you been able to try another battery, just to make sure it's not that??

We have a Tdi 200 manual and a Tdi 300 auto EDC. I used to sing the praises of the 200 all night and day "35mpg, fast enough; great tow-er" etc etc. Truth is, the 300 goes better, corners better, tows better, is more refined and uses almost exactly the same amount of fuel. They are both great but I'm really swaying to the 300 now.

Sounds like maybe the small spring in the locl has broken. Ebay do them for about £5 per door, but remember they are door-specific or handed.

I'm not sure but I think that's not right - I was given to understand that the glowplugs stay working after the engine has fired, to help with warm-up. Indeed, I can hear on my TDi300 edc the solenoid click off several seconds after the moto has fired up.

No no no. If you do that on an EDC model you WILL create problems. They are set-up to give an automatic small blip of revs when the engine starts and raised tickover speed. A tip for cold weather (-5 or lower) starting I found useful is this: turn the key to warm the glowplugs, then turn off and imediately warm the plugs again, before turning over the engine. Works every time on my TDI 300 auto.

According to my '98 TDi 300 manual the suitable viscocity depends to a great deal on the ambient temperature to which the vehicle will be exposed. Anything from 5-30 up to 15-50. Incidently the first figure relates to viscocity when cold (down to -10°) eg the 5 bit, and the second figure relates to when the ambient temp reaches for example 40°C. So, the smaller the first number, the thinner the oil, so the other it is to turn the engine over in cold weather. For this to be an advantage you need to use the finest oil available. Anything API CF and above is good enough for these engines.

Hi there, I have the same vehicle and with mine the "change" occurs at 82kph. The "change" is the torque converter in the gearbox locking (as it's designed to do) so that pretty much all of the power of the engine gets transmitted through the auto box without loss - so it's a good thing. I found it took a bit of getting used to, but it really is worthwhile keeping above the "change" speed, the car feels tighter on the road and much more gutsy.

Hi all, my car battery seems to be on it's way out on my '98 Disco Tdi300 auto, so if anyone can tell me what spec of battery I need to replace the old one with I would be very gratefull. My car is basic trim, so no electric seats or anything, so, how many amps 70, 80 or 100? What is important to look for in a new battery - Cold Cranking somthing?? HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Have you checked the rear body crossmember. Sometimes, if these are rotted out on one corner, it will allow the body to drop a bit?

As others have said, make sure that water can't get in !! Also, considor taking out the sound-absorbing rubber mat for a while and you'll soon see if there's any moisture gathering. That rubber mat is I suspect a main culpret as moisture that gets into the vehicle is absorbed by the mat and keeps it next to the metal, to work it's magic. I've just replaced the floor on my wif's TDi200 and then sealed up the side windows and taken out the rubber mat. There is however, a tiny amount of water still getting in so I need to track that down.

Thanks very much for your comments guys. I looked at the car again and decided that the majority of play was actually in the steering box, so I adjusted (very carefully) the allen bolt on top of the box and now all the play that I was feeling whilst driving, has gone. There is still a minute amount of play on the top UJ, but it doesn't seem to impact on the feel of the steering, so hopefully all is now well. Thanks again, Dave