thebiglad

Hi all, I'm trying another site for hosting this doc, could someone try the link and report back. When you click the link, you will be given the option of opening or downloading the doc, click download and it should work. Linky: http://www.humyo.com/F/7442227-233733303 Cheers Dave

Hi Les, how you doing. Just got back from a little jaunt to Morocco - 4500mls in 3 weeks - great fun !!! Cheers Dave

If anyone actually believes that LR cares one iota what it's customers think of the local concessionaire, they are woefully misinformed. The only thing a car manufacturer considors is sales, only sales. So if your local LR dealer treats you like dirt, but achieves it's quota each month, LR will do nothing - it has no need to change anything. Just take a long look at the "British" motor industry, compared to the French, the Italian and Japanese manufacturers all of whom have booming international, as well as home, markets. Sadly, there is no longer any british manafacturer of mass-produced motor vehicles, in part because we all stopped caring about whether we should have manufacturing in the UK, a long time ago. Disillusioned of France........................

At that age and with a Td5 motor it can only be a Disco 2 Cheers & best of luck with your new motor Dave

Hi there cooney, so what was the problem with your brakes, it might help someone else if you share your experience with us? Cheers Dave

Completely agree - the best £21.25+vat I've ever spent on a car. Dave

Hi there Discosfa, I get all my bits from Paddocks as I find their service and prices combination unbeatable. For a Tdi300 a set of the three main filters costs £6.28+vat, so I get two sets at a time and change all the filters every 5000mls. At that price why wouldn't you? Cheers & good luck Dave

Have you changed your airfilter, if not try that. Cheers Dave

Hi Rocky this is an article of when I did mine, hope it helps. If you need anymore info pm me. http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=107999 Cheers Dave

Hi GC, get a Disco, you'll love it and when you've finished the house renovations, you can learn to ply with it as well Personally I would go for a really clean Tdi 300 auto and a trailer - which is what I did !!! I found a '98 Disco, two owners with full service history and 76,000mls - runs really nicely and just passed it's french mot easily. No rust problems at all. 33-34mpg daily and nearly 40mpg on a run. With the rest I bought a trailer for getting building materials as, like you, I'm renovating as well. So, no muck in the car, ever. I also bought seat covers as we have four yes 4 dogs !! If you go for something newer ie Disco2 either in petrol or diesel you are moving into a more sophisticated vehicle and not servicable by the village mechy. Best of luck in your search. Just remember that 4x4's are way out of fashion now and can be bought quite cheaply, mine was £2200 !! Dave

I have two Disco's the first one is a Tdi 200 (the wifes') 162,000mls runs beautifully looks like the proverbial bag of sh1te, the second one , mine is a '98 Tdi 300 auto, 81,000mls and is just about to go into the desert in Morocco - so it must be reliable enough mustn't it?? There's no problem with reliability on Disco's, there is a problem finding decent cars that have been looked after PROPERLY !! After all, we are talking about cars that are 12-13 yrs old. When buying any Landy you are buying into a new hobby, if you only want reliable transport, you might not get the full enjoyment out of a Landy. Cheers & good luck Dave

I had to deal with these &&&&&&&& recently when I did a bootfloor. There is a 'T'shaped bolt that goes from the underneath of the floor down to fix on a chassis fixing point. These are expensive and diffilcult to get hold of - if these are NOT the ones you've damaged, make sure you don't !! The hex headed bolt that goes through the floor and supports the plate underneath the floor is disposable - so if that's the one you snapped? it's not a problem. You will need to remove the captive nut and i did that by cutting a slice through the middle of the nut and then chiselling it off. Get hold of some good quality nuts and bolts, about 15mm from memory and fix the top and underneath plates with those - when you install them make sure you loctite them in and do them up good and tight. Hope that helps Dave

If it's turning over slowly in cold weather, it's likely to be starter motot orientated. 1. Check the earth nr the start motor 2. Check the solenoid 3. Check the brushes in the motor itself. 4. Try rigging a temporary separate thick cable going from the neg terminal on the battery to the neg terminal on the starter motor. Just as an aside, ever since I de-catted the exhaust downpipe on my '98 Tdi 300AUTO, her cold-weather starting improved dramatically. I can't explain and I don't care - she's just a better starter now !!!

In the process of the cowboys, sorry technicians, fitting an after-market immobiliser, they took out the fuse B1 and must have cobbled together something so that previously everything worked. When I put the new lock & wiring in, the cobbled together element was no longer there, so it needed B1 - which it now has. Joy is restored, thanks to all who contributed, Cheers Dave

Update on this mornings trials & tribulations. I tried a direct wire between the solenoid and the battery and she fired up immediately. So I made a new wire form the solenoid back into the car and picked up a switched + line from the back of the cigar lighter and now she fires up and stops on command. There is still a slight eleccy problem remaining. I appear to have lost the permanent live which feeds the cigar lighter/radio/clock. There is juice getting through to the clock on a switched live, but no clock function. Anyone got any thoughts on this?? __________________

Hi all, got a bit of a problem with the wife's Tdi 200. The ignition lock broke so I got a new one and temporarly plugged it in to test it. I should explain that the car has an aftermarket immobiliser that we want to get rid of. So after fitting the new lock she now turns over fine, without needing to touch the immo key, but she won't fire. I'm assuming that in the immo circuit (which is now on the floor in disgust!!) they included the fuel solenoid, so I'm working on the basis that the supply has been cut to it by removing the immo. My plan is after lunch when it stops raining, to provide a second direct supply to the solenoid & she if she fires then as I can't think of anything else electrical that can be stopping her fire up ?? How do I get the car back to std so the the solenoid is fed in the normal way once more? Any & all comments/advice welcomed. I'm not worried about security aspects of not having an immo, as we live in the back of beyond. Cheers Dave

Hi Luis, Here are my thoughts: 1. If the discs are in good ungrooved condition, I would leave them; 2. Standard pads will be fine, just make sure that you give the calipers a good clean, particularly the pistons, before you push them back in. Remember to take off the master cylinder cap before compressing the pistons. 3. A std pads fitting kit; 4. If in doubt, replace; 5. That's probably due to pad wear; 6. Dot 4. Might be worth doing a full change of the brake fluid. This will involve bleeding the brakes. As you have abs, it is more complicated I believe.; 7. None that I can think of, but make sure you have some high-meltpoint grease such as Copper-Slip; 8. After the new pads are fitted. Drive gently for 5 mins and do some light braking to settle the pads. Once this has been done, do a series of very firm braking manouvers from 60mph down to 30, back up to 60. Do this 10 ten times and your brakes will be well bedded-in.: 9. The vehicle is completely designed to brake safely whilst pulling a trailer. Just check the pads every 3 months for wear. Hope that helps, if you have any doubts about being able to do this, let a garage do it. Brakes need to be done properly, your familys life might depend on it. Cheers Dave Fill in your profile, then people will know whereabouts you are in the world when trying to help you.

So this noise happpens at low revs in a high gear, on load? I would be checking everything to do with the inlet of the engine. From the airfilter, through the hoses to the turbo, then the hoses from the turbo to the intercooler and finally the hose between the intercooler and the inlet manifold. What you will be looking for are any splits or delamination of the hoses, so you will need to take each one off and examine the inside. If they feel soft and/or if there is any delamination, fit new ones. Just my thoughts Cheers & good luck Dave

Hi Colin, yes, there are some Disco I's tha had vented discs, I thinks these are the models with ABS. If you want/need to change from non-vented to vented front brakes, then I believe you will need to change calipers as well as discs. They are available here, at reasonable money. Just one question, why do you feel the need to change? My '98 Tdi 300 brakes like a good'un, with only normal discs. Perhaps there is something amiss with the current set-up that could be sorted with new pads and a good cleanup? Here's the links: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVERY_...nd_drilled.html http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVERY_...nted_discs.html http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/abspage/3/...ory/Brakes.html Hope that helps, Cheers & good luck Dave Ps Remember Disco's weigh over 2100 kgs - not like the kit car at maybe 700kgs?

Have you replaced the airfilter recently?? Made a big difference to ours. Cheers Dave

Hi there sotal, my '98 tdi 300 auto EDC used to be a bit of a bugler to start and always needed the glowplugs until.....I fitted the Defender non-cat downpipe. Now she fires up before I put the key - well not quite but you get the idea. I don't understand the improved starting, but I know it to be true. Cheers Dave

I've just had a drive of my mates Defender and have come to the following conclusions, based on a lack on experience of driving TD5 Defenders (prat!!) 1. The gear change is a bit notchy, maybe they're all like that; 2. The clutch is not slipping at all and displayed no symptoms 3. Have suggested we change the slave & master cylinders at the same time. So, please, can anyone guide me as to how to do this ??? It's a 2002 Defender 110 with an R380 gearbox. I've had a quick look underneath and there seem to be several plastic shields under the engine and gearboxes, so I suppose first job is to remove them ?? After that where will I find the slave cylinder and what do I need to do/be aware of, in order to change it? Apart from the slave cylinder itself are there any seals/washers/nuts that I should have in stock before starting this? Ditto for the master cylinder. All help/suggestions welcomed - thanks in advance for assistance Cheers Dave

You know there is a specific process for checking thze autobox oil, right? Start with a cold engine, start the engine, place foot firmly on brake pedal, select 1st and leave for a couple of seconds to take up drive, select reverse and ditto, then put in Park and check the level. The idea being you want to ensure that all the little crevices are filled up before checkig the level. Cheers Dave

Hi all, a pal has the TD5 Defender, which appears to have a clutch problem. Apparently gear changing is fine, but if you stay in gear at halt eg. at traffic lights, sometimes it stalls whilst in gear, then there is no feel in the pedal and it's impossible to select gears again, until you stop the engine and restart it. Anyone got any ideas where I should start with this?? Cheers for any and all suggestions Cheers Dave

I get all my stuff from Paddocks as well. Re bearings they often offer a couple of options pricewise, ie a cheapy (which I usually buy) and an original equipment one - you pays yer money, etc Cheers Dave