thebiglad

Take a look at Paddocks site, their prices INCLUDE £100 surcharge, so they're about £100 nett. Follow the link: http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/category/D...ring_Boxes.html

Depending on the conditiopn of the tyres (new set being £3-400) I would estimate £1500 and dropping. They have fallen out of fashion bigtime - which is great if you're buying, not so good if you are selling

I used Difflock fully synthetic EVO1 in the gearbox and it is luverley, smooth and quiet.

Does it have EDC? If it does, there's a reasonable chance your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is up the swanny.

Also, once the correct gears have been selected, just reverse a short distance - this can help to get the car out of diff-lock, so that the light will go out.

Did you find anyone to supply the door seals? I know of a company that sells on ebay, that sells it by the metre, £4.20 from memory

I'm not 100% sure but isn't this brake light to which you refer, the same one that comes on when you put the handbrake on? The two problems may well be related. I'm pretty sure i've read something about Disco handbrakes missbehaving in this way.

Hi all, what is this thing and what are it's advantages over the std unit. Any comments please, Cheers Dave

If you want to give it a thorough job, then take out the centre console which gives you direct access to the top of the unit and the bar which will be seized. Coat in grease and gently work it loose. Once it's working again, wobble it back and forth regularly to keep it working.

I have a similar-sounding problem with the change quality being harsh, first to second, only when warm, changes smooth as you like when cold. I've just done a gearbox oil change and that has improved matters a bit. You probably know that to do the auto-box oil change (total capacity9 ltrs) you do it in 2 stages, empty out about 4-5ltrs (that's all that will come out, the rest stays in the torque convertor) and refill, then 100 or so miles later (when the new oil has had a chance to mix with the existing old stuff) do it again. I've done stage 1 and it's improved so I'm hoping that stage 2 will improve it further. Cheers Dave

Hi guys, well I've really got this Landy thing bad now !!! I have 2 Disco's Tdi 200 for my wife and Tdi 300 auto for me but I quite fancy buying a series Land Rover. I like the idea of something more basic, less electrical/electronic, older, something I can work on to bring back to a full working life, not for every day but for playing in the mud and all the small pistes and tracks around where we live. I'm too precious with the Discos. So, to my question or series of questions. 1. Which series - 1, 2, 2a or 3. I've been looking at the spares position which is starting to lead me towards 2a or 3 2. Which engine - 2.25 petrol or diesel? 2.5 ditto. Not interested in V8's, sorry. 3. I'm leaning towards swb, due to weight and we don't need anything bigger. Hardtop, although a full canvass roof is quite appealing for the summer. 4. I'm thinking leaf springs but what are parabollic springs? What key elements should I look for when viewing some vehicles? Bulkheads rusty - yes but where? how bad is too bad? What to look for? Chassis - would love to go for a new galvy chassis but getting it over here might be an expensive proposition. I hope I'm painting some pictures guys - can you please fill in the blanks ??

To be honest I wasn't planning on changing the filter as well. My thinking is that it's a wire mesh screen rather than a filter as such, so it will stay, but the oil needs to go !!

Thanks Keith, I'll get some today. Just as a matter of interest, when you drain the box, how many litres come out? I ask this because I've heard that the box capacity is 9 ltrs, but only ABOUT 5 comes out, as the rest is held in the torque converter?? So how do you ENSURE that you've got ALL the old oil out? I'm old school and I like to get rid of all the old carp oil when I do an engine oil change so I use flushing oil. I suspect I can't do this on the auto box. Someone said you empty out the 5 ltrs, then refill, then drive for about 500 mls, then empty and re-fill. Surely on that basis you just end up with "watered down" new oil, rather than completely new stuff. I may be looking into this in more detail than neccesary - I often do

Hi all, I have a '98 Disco Tdi 300 auto and want to do a gearbox oil change. Last time was nearly 2 yrs ago and 15,000mls. The change quality is just starting to go off slightly, so I thought I would change the oil and see what happens. What I need to know is, what's the difference between D11 and D111? My handbook says D11 but that was printed in '97. Is D111 just an updated version or is it something completely different that I shouldn't use. D111 is readily available but can't find any D11. All comments welcomed, Cheers Dave

I use Britpart filters on both of our Disco's with no ill effects whatever. Due to there cheap price £7 for a kit of air, oil and fuel filters, I change them all every 5000mls.

Hi there, I've just looked at your picture and it made me feel soooooh angry at LR for not having the skill, wits or committment to make vehicles that are watertight. The rest of the motor manufacturing world has been doing it for 30 yrs but not LR - no siry bob!! . "Our customers prefer to enjoy the elements" - LR Spokesman defending carp manufacturing. Ooooooooh it makes me cross...........................

Couldn't agree more Thys, we have two Discos and I love'em both, for different reasons, the TDI 200 for it's sense of being able to take you anywhere, unstoppable - the engine just goes and goes plus 36mpg!! and the Tdi 300 auto for it's comfort, relative speed and still 33mpg. They're just great vehicles - occasionally let down by really stupid little things. The forum has been absolutely great for me, only being into Landys for the last 3yrs or so. Done more mechanicking in that time than the rest of my life, with the support of all here - just great guys, thanks for all your help and encouragement. Cheers Dave

No, it's not an mot failure. The mot concerns structural aspects and things like the solidity of brake mounting parts, chassis, seat belt anchorages etc and their security. In this case the rear belt anchors to the chassis passing through the floor on the way. It's been Contrôle techniqued since without a word of protest. Good enough for me........................

The serpentine alternator belt tensioner bearing is very prone to failure. It is often the fault which produces the well-known 'canary under the bonnet' scenario. New bearings are cheap to buy of Ebay - about £4 iirc. Poor design though.........................................

I can't weld !!!! Thought I would get that out of the way first, but I replaced the boot floor on my wifes Tdi 200 and to be honest I'm quite proud of it. To view the article follow this link: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=107999 It took me a while to think it through but once I got stuck in it wasn't too bad at all. Now I know that all is good and strong again, every time we put 75kgs of coal and 2 bags of horse feed in there it's a relief !!!

Hi there, I've got a '98 Disco Tdi 300 auto and would like to install driving lamps on my vehicle, so that they operate with the main beam circuit. Any help, advice or support you can give me would be gratefully recieved. BTW, I'm in no rush, go and have a good time !!!

When you re-install it, do a REALLY good job on the earth. There is soooh much juice going through it needs to be spot-on.

I started to type this thread and suddenly realised that I know NOTHING about this subject, so a helping hand would be great. I live in France and diesel has gone up to 1.25€ ltr. When I first came here it was 0.70€ltr, so I'm well tiddled off !!! My vehicles are Discos, Tdi 200 & Tdi 300 auto. I'm looking for ways to reduce my running costs and one of them would be to start using veg oil, so I have a series of stupid-sounding questions: 1. Is it actually veg oil, the sort of stuff you cook your chips in? 2. Is there any particular type - sunflower, Colza etc. I'm not looking for brand-names as things will be different over here, so it's just the type I'm after. 3. I believe that I can use a mixture of this oil with diesel, without modifying the cars? 4. Anything else I should know about? Think of the most stupid, obvious thing and then tell me, cos I won't know. We live in the country so have to travel a long way to do anything, so fuel costs are important to us. Any and all comments will be welcomed. Cheers Dave

Hi Kevin, unfortunately "permanent four wheel drive" doesn't actually mean that all 4 wheels will drive all of the time. If it did, you would never be able to turn a corner !! What Lynall says is correct in that if you are in a situation where traction is likely to be a problem, then you select Difflock and that apportions drive 50:50 between the front and rear axles. The big problem is the if you get 1 wheel on each axle slipping, then you don't go anywhere. The only non-professional 4-wheel drive car I know of that had locking diffs on the axles as well as in the centre was the Mercedes G-wagon. You will often come across 4x4's that have a Limited Slip Diff, usually on the back axle. Usually Japonese.

Price seems high to me. I recently bought a '98 Tdi 300 auto with only 75,000mls and full dealer service history for £2200.