qwakers

took a look online and no sign of them

brakes now sorted thanks to my local factors having in stock a brake hose for a car thats been out of production for 10 years... thatll be the leak then all better

yeah ive found a few dead links and a load of paysites... nothing has come of it yet...

not the easiest car to transport tools in... god the job done though... plust (not pictured) the floor of the lorry is now up and out of the way. on a side note, does anyone know where i can find the manual for a lister SR3 diesel single speed engine? need to get it running... its a 25kva generator that i've been lent with the understanding that i recommission it for them... got diesel at the fuel rail but nothing comes out the injectors top banjo's when cracked and engine cranked over... im fairly sure its me doing something wrong. this things from the ark....

it was damaged by a idiot (ergo me) not double checking it doesnt hit the strut when on full lock after changing the balljoint.... the others are fine.

spent this afternoon taking the tail lift off. never to be refitted... probably. i suppose i might put it back on, but only if i can work out how to fit the lights and ramps without them hitting the tail lift. not actually that hard. 2 wires and one hydraulic hose disconnected, the lights unbolted, the welds cut where its welded to the box body, then undo the bolts down the columbs (yet to do) undo the bolts across behind the ram, then the ones to the chassis, and remove... bit rusty here... that will come off fully tomorrow morning. then the drive home. not normally worthy of a mention on here. except. there i was, approaching a mini roundabout, when i saw a car approaching the junction to my left. sure enough, she (its usually a she) pulled out in front of me. no drama, i was half expecting it so i had plenty of room to stop, so i firmly applied the brakes, the car slows... then the pedal drops to the floor :shock: i swerve round the front of her and pull over. after replacing my underwear, i realise i've burst a brake hose, the car has twin circuit brakes so it will still stop so as im about 1/8 mile from home, i gingerly make my way home... that was fun... O/S/F wheel.. so ill be needing a new brake hose, unfortunately neither ECP or Halfords have one (if ECP don't, halfords wont, ECP supply halfords) amd nowhere else is open tomorrow. so it seems, ill be loading a generator and a load of tools into the RX8 tomorrow for my trip over to the lorry...... inconvenient, to say the least.!

lol previous owners where hovis, i mean, how hard can it be worked lifting a few loaves of bread no, i dont think theres anything wrong, i just think the bypass is cutting in at 1ton , and the car weighs more than that, so... it will lift just the front of the car fine, it really is just a weight issue.

no worries, ive tried to think of all the cheap ways....

which would take the chains over their rated capacity, and i really dont want to go there....

theyre all multiple thousands plus fitting. plus loler certification. it works out at £5-10k minimum

their cars don't weigh anything

car weighs 1300kgs tail lift is rated at 1000kgs measured 500mm from the columbs. still, i was optimistic so i bolted the ramps to the tail lift, added ratchet straps as tensioning wires and tried. didn't even leave the ground. man maths say i need a 4000kg tail lift to be safe.

unsurprisingly i've had several people question weather it is legal to cut and weld the chassis, and if so, how to do it. MAG and Tig are allowed. MAG is preferred. ( where as mig is argon or helium gas MAG is co2/argon mix (usually) . therefore people that call welding with a wire feed welder with co2/argon mix (the most common) MIG welding, are mistaken its MAG welding...) anywho i digress. so mig welding a chassis is fine, and according to the bodybuilder manual, this is what you are allowed to do... so no issue then

oh the tangled webs we weave.... i am royally peed off with fighting with ramps, then ramp extensions, and still having issues with rampover and dragging the nose up the ramps. there's no point in this lorry if its going to be harder work than just driving it there. idea 1, a proper car tail lift. not happening. just way out of budget, (8-10k!) so...... i'm going to cut the chassis and beavertail it. this means losing the tail lift, which is a mixed blessing, it won't have any use after as per the lorries primary purpose, but it was nice to have in case i needed to pick up machinery etc. oh well, needs must. the photo below is a very crude drawing of what i want the end product to achieve. the key for the pic is as follows. the green line shows the new outline of the body, the new floor, as you where the red line is where the chassis gets cut and welded the blue is the ramp which gets hinged up against the back of the lorry for transport the yellow is a channel that will be hung from the floor to hold the ramps in when stored away. to pieces (per ramp) of 50mm angle should do. pretty crude, but i think you get the idea...

when i was doing the brake pads, i managed to damage one of the air hoses to the handbrake spring chamber. whilst i was at Hydroscand getting a length of 10mm plastic hardline, i decided to get the bits together for the accessory air setup i've had in the list of things to do since christmas. i bought about 10m of hardline (£60 but its nice to have plenty of spare.) a T adaptor and a 10mm to 1/4" male fitting. then i went on amazon and picked up a 24v solenoid with a 1/4" bsp female inlet and outlet. and bent up a bracket out of 2mm aluminium. the result of which... i ran the 2 wires into the junction box i use for the tail lift controls then i ran a feed from under the dash in the cab all the way back and into the junction box also. i also picked up a twist to release emergency stop button so i mounted that just above, wired it as NC (normally closed which means you push the button in to break the connection) and ran that wire into the j/b also i then ran a good earth wire down through the floor to the tail lift control box where i bolted it to a good earth. the air feed to all this is teed into the secondary air system, ran along the nearside chassis leg and up through the floor, all inside corrugated wire conduit to protect it. basically the same as the factory wiring it is rather simple, one wire on the solenoid connects to earth (either one, doesn't matter) the other wire connects to one side of the switch, the other switch leg to the power wire that i ran to the cab. at the cab end i took the plug off the back of the rear working light switch and tested it. it turns out the connector is not fully populated so i use spade connectors in lieu of the correct pinning kit. far right pair are the illumination wires, these are pinned into the back of the factory connector. second from the right is +ve from the fusebox (more on that later) and far left is the feed to the solenoid. i used both brown and blue to avoid voltage drop as much as possible. then there was the feed to the switch. i wanted it to be on the accessory side of the battery protection system, same as the tail lift. i have for a while wanted to tidy up the 'bodybuilder' feeds from the solenoid that is controlled by the battery protect system, both the hazard warning light circuit and the tail lift where using in line fuses straight from the solenoid. the problem is, they are in such a stupid place, you have to take half the dash out to get to them!. anywho, the tail lift is on the accessory side of the isolator the hazards are on the battery side (i guess the reason for that is so the hazards work if battery guard kicks in, big surprise, they don't, cos the bcem isn't powered!) i might one day wire it up as it came out of the factory. but probably not... after pulling the dash apart i started trying to work out what fuses in the fuse board where unused acc feeds, it turns out there are some, (see across the top here but they aren't pinned, so no go there. so what i did was cut the in line fuses out, extend the wires up to the fuse box and slot them in along the top of the fuse box, then run the feeds back down to where they originally were wired in. the tail lift fuse wire, instead of running to the tail lift switch, now runs to the solenoid switch where as you can see i used a piggy back spade to split the feed to the tail lift switch also. that's the switch im using for the solenoid and the end result... all that lot took WAY longer than it should have because i spent most of my afternoon chasing why the solenoid only fired occasionally, turns out the earth to that junction box wasn't very good, so a new earth run down to the chassis of the lorry, and all is well....

according to this app (very handy to have, by the way) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rnfdigital.bridgestone_re_torque&gl=GB its 700nm

i just searched companies house for a landrover garage that had recently gone bust and errrm, invented a receipt from them

considering the fact i only need it for lorry wheel nuts, i can live with that just wasnt worth buying a maHOOOSive torque wrench...

has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Pro-Digital-Display-Torque-Wrench-Adapter-1-2-1-4-3-4-3-8-Drive-Portable/264418239504?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=564063058462&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 thoughts? ive ordered the 1000nm one. and yes, i am aware its from china and will be a while. it was also cheap enough to take a punt on, whereas all the uk stocked ones, weren't..

yeah, considering im pretty sure the bar is about 10 years old. they more or less accepted the bar broke due to a casting defect. a new bar for about £8, not bad at all,,,, spot the defect...

i sent the pics over to toolzone about the breaker bar errrm, breaking and this was their response.

to revisit this. that toggle switch... changes the mode from 2t to 4t. nice.

yeah it does most things

little one is https://www.makitauk.com/product/dtw251rmj.html middle one good enough for most things (pictured) is https://www.makitauk.com/product/dtw450z.html and the big one( not pictured) is https://www.makitauk.com/product/dtw1001z.html

fronts where nothing like as tight, they should only be about 480nm.... to undo that my big impact should be able (barely) and on the front it did. the back. well....