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qwakers

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Everything posted by qwakers

  1. look, free lowering kit the pole before and after using it to lever the wheels off.. 'you fkin will come off! 'im not asking!' brakes now replaced old ones where very worn, and someone had sabotaged the pad wear indicators... the little impact will break A m12 bolt.... the big one will break your wrist if your not careful. neither would touch the wheel nuts... all done and back together.
  2. yup, works fine. these have been done up on full uggaduggas by a idiot tyre fitter. not coming off without serious mechanical advantage.
  3. i did take a video but it was accidentally set to timelapse and well, just watch! EAB6F307-CD19-4598-B5E0-05AE92F47F04.MOV
  4. haha no chance. youd need a 1”dr air driven at least. my impact wont touch it and that puts out 2000lbft!
  5. has the effect of cleaning the tyre, too! i think it was someone on here that told me about it
  6. oh and... 2k paint plus expired mask.... nah. time for a new one... rated for 2k paint so... onwards!
  7. and so, were back to the wagon! after barely passing the mot last year, i decided it was time to look at the rear brakes. a set of pads ordered so just have to fit them and adjust the load sensing valve. i have 18 ton axle stands and a 20 ton bottle jack, so this should have been easy, but i chose to do it yesterday afternoon.... in 32* heat! yeah, that was fun. first off i undid the wheel nuts on one wheel (set) well, i tried to. 3/4" drive 7ft breaker bar and they didn't even flinch. added another 20ft of scaffold pole and the each came undone with a loud bang. over tightened much? i hate hgv fitters! next i jacked it up, used my battery impact to spin the nuts off, which it did no worries, and took the outer wheel off. then the fun began. the wheel was rusted to the hub. i put the pole behind the wheel and against the axle and gave it a good old heave-ho. nothing. this went on for a while, i even tried shocking it off with a sledge hammer, no chance. what to do? well, tie a ratchet strap to the end of the pole, the other end to the tow bar of my car and drive off. that worked :mrgreen: wheels off and the pole had a 10* bend in the end of it now! stuck a axle stand under the hub, jack down and were half done... none of the above do i have pics for, because i left my ipad at home, doh. then onto the passenger side. oh dear oh dear, thought the drivers where overtightened! same as before, breaker bar on, 20ft pole on, and this time i'm standing on the end jumping up and down and nothing, until. BANG. ok, that'll be a new breaker bar i need then :shock: game over. back to it tomorrow with a 1" drive bar. if that doesn't move them, i'll be investing in a torque multiplier... 2 wheels in the back of my car weigh a lot, and take the entire boot up with the seats down, so i bought them home to clean up and paint. here they are next to a rx8 tyre... wire wheeled back rust converted. next i removed the valve core to let the air out and make the tyre shrink away from the bead and painted them with fairy liquid... primer top coat and 2k lacquer sunlight silver anyone?? airline used to blow the paint off 24hrs later and the finished product... just got to do that again to the other pair and fit them back to the wagon.... oh and change the pads and adjust the load sensing valve..... which is what i started with in the first place!
  8. yus, quite common. worth noting, if the diode fails then they backfeed at night and flatten instead of charge. guys on the rx8 owners club have had this happen to rac branded ones, among others. personally id buy a cheap tiny panel (small prevents overcharging) and wire it up through a diode omitting a solar controller (no need to over complicate) i ran a setup like that for years keeping my trayback batterys charged whilst it was parked in my lorry.
  9. my tools chest was £50 from halfords on a offer, 11 years ago. it was ok for 8 or so years, but the runners on the draws have been falling to bits for years and all the draws are flopping about. also to add, the draws down pull out all the way so if you put ‘spanner ladders’ in, you cant put them al, the way to the back. another gripe is the draws in the top cabinet arent deep enough so my spanners hit the next draw up. so, on to the question. what tool chests do you have? im particularly after draws that pull out all the way
  10. 2005-2006 (1994)renault clio 1.2(first car, little rocketship) 2006-2007 (1998)ford fiesta 1.1(a little slug, didnt move!) 2007-2013 (2006) renault laguna 1.9dci (sold to my mum, she wrecked it and traded it in for £500 in 2017 grrr.) 2012-2015 (1994)land rover discovery mpi (ragged it, traybacked it, got Mildly miffed off with it, scrapped it) 2013-2013 (1999)range rover p38 4.0se manual(couldn't live with the thirst!) 2014-2015 (2001)saab 9-3 2.2 tdi(used as a van whilst doing up house) 2015-2017 (2006)kia sorento 2.5 cdti auto (great car, couldn't live with the thirst. 2017-present (2005)Mazda rx8 waaaaankle! (awesome machine. now my track car) 2018-present (2005)renault laguna 1.9dci estate (i do love them, wish id never sold the first one to my mum.) plus all the bikes, but the list would get a lot longer.
  11. i know someone who flocked his dash in his car and it looked great... for about 6 months. then the flocking started to come away in a powder, giving him bad breathing issues that he couldnt place. he ended up replacing the entire dash...
  12. i once had this issue on a 3vz-fe v6 engine id swapped into a mr2. i pulled the alternator out (not easy in a mr2 with a engine much bigger than the designed one) and sent it off, it tested as no fault. i told them to change the brushes anyway, when they took it apart the voltage regulator disintintigrated. replaced it and all was well
  13. that probably started as a temp bodge to get them to the end of the day.... and when it worked promptly got forgotton....
  14. looks blown to me... se circled areas in the pics....
  15. diff ratios vs rpm at the limiter. ignore the gear ratios from 1-5 as those are guessed, and 6th ratio is a calculation from where i know the rpms sit at 56mph. all i did then was input the final drive ratio, and lower the max engine rpm till 6th gear read 56mph. crude but effective. first is 5.13:1 (current) second is 4.1: (this is the option i think id choose...) last is 3.73:1
  16. the major downside to where i keep my lorry is the lack of water supply. i have no intention of drinking the water from the river, but for washing the lorry and other uses, its free and useful. ive already got a petrol pressure washer, but its a old model, so cannot draw water, it has to be supplied under pressure.(not much pressure, mind...) so cheap submersible pump... a hose and crock clips to a 12v battery. once lorry was a lot less green i filled a couple of 25l drums up with drinking water, stuck the pump in them and filled the lorries water tank.. the flow rate from the pump is so slow i sped it up, somewhat, with the pressure washer once it was all washed off i got the da sander out and used fine paper to take the very top layer of gelcoat off. this has the advantage of changing the entire surface to the same colour so you cant see where the hovis stuff came off and it'll give a very good surface for the signwriting to stick too. also if i spray it in the future to change the colour, most of the prep work is done! pics of the finished product. 90% of the scrape marks (from trees, other lorries, corners of buildings etc, did i mention it was driven by neanderthals?) are gone, the hovis lettering is still visible but less so, and it in general looks much more presentable. not bad going, methinks. but very hard work
  17. new bits from a rebuilder. finding a diff from a breaker is turning out to be elusive. id happily pay £200 for a diff, that's just a tank of fuel for it but £1k for just a CW&P? not happening.
  18. the only issue for me with the lorry driving wise is some idiot specced it with a 5.13:1 diff. so its revving its tits off when doing 56 which goes some way to explaining the woeful fuel economy.... so i did a bit of research and found my options where a 3.73:1, 4.10:1 and 4.46:1 crown wheel and pinion. oooh, boy, you think land rover prices are expensive? try these prices..... 3.73 - £1240+VAT 4.10 - £985.98+VAT 4.46 - £890+VAT i found another supplier that would do the 3.73:1 for £750 + vat not quite as bad but holy hell!
  19. i spent time fiddling with the lorry today. one very loaded car later and i have the ramps and their extensions at the lorry, ready to try them out! in the garage i thought up multiple complicated ways of supporting the hinge, from a complicated locking mechanism through to folding legs, but the easiest way is often the best.... as you can see there are no problems with the weight or rampover angles (this isn't a lot higher than the rx8 and the wheelbase is way longer, so this amount of clearance means the 8 should go.) that being true, taking the ramps out i thought was the best plan, give the lorry more versatility (see for sale thread) assembling the ramps is actually really easy! i fit the main ramps as before then lift them off the ground with the tail lift (finally a use for it!) the just slide the pin through the hinge and lower the tail lift down, slide the two chunks of wood under the hinge then finish lowering the taillift out of the way. easy
  20. i was thinging about taking the tail-lift off and having the hydraulic pump fold the ramps up for me. probably wont happem though.
  21. todays work, whilst waiting for another delivery (read freeby!) from RRP i decided to do something about the ramps on the wagon. the original ramps are long enough, right? well anyone who's seen me load up knows the cars nose has been comprehensively dragged along the ground, so no, not long enough. folding ramp extension time! about another 6 feet of ramp... stage 1 hinged up and skinned... and whole ramp painted (silver because i have it in stock...)
  22. last time i had this issue on a d1 it was the pushrod length. if you take the m/c off, stick a bit of blue tack to the end and bolt it back on (don't touch the pedal) then take it off again youll see the clearance. you want the clearance to be about the thickness of a sheet of paper.
  23. yeah i did try to pursuade rrp to wrap the entire lorry, he didnt want to pay a £5k bill.
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