disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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Disco's need the 110 defender front pipe, matched to the Paddock "Performance" system for the 300 Tdi, makes a good combo.
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d'oh - what he ^^ said
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no problem
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Availability is the key (i.e. the D2 springs aren't)
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From my Kilen spring book, we have the following data;
Disco 1 Dt 16.50 Dy 154 L0 427 (Not sure what the Dt & Dy are, but i'm guessing the L0 is length)
Disco 2 RH Dt 16.50 Dy 151 L0 396
Disco 2 LH Dt 16.50 Dy 151 L0 400
So from that, i suspect that the Disco 1 springs will give you approx a 1" rear lift.
Kilen ones are available at the moment too 69061 &69062 are the part numbers.
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ahh someone else who has a vehicle that steers them towards useful items at random - must be something to do with the preload settings........A quick detour and a few quid later I had..... -
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it will be best to bleed the system, otherwise you could be a while.
did you use the disco (if it was a disco engine) fuel filter housing? if so on the top is a small bolt, this is the bleed screw, undo this, then use the lift pump (side of block by oil filter) to pump fuel upto the injectors. you will know when it gets there, as you will get some fuel out of the filter housing bolt.
the other way is to "crack" the top of the injector pipes open. at the top where the metal pipes go in there is a big nut IIRC 17 or 19mm, undo these a bit, then repeat the procedure with the lift pump until fuel comes out. the engine should start then, just make sure to tighten everything back up.
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when i pulled the cardboard trim down that hides the abs relays etc, it was from the grill on the bottom of the heater box thingy (will take a pic lunchtime) not sure if it would be a/c related, as i still haven't got round to organising another a/c pipe, so the system is still fully discharged.
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After washing the ES the other night (rare i know) i noticed water dripping onto the n/s/f footwell mat, from behind the glovebox area. Upon closer inspection i found that there was water leaking in from the heater box (the one behind the glovebox), any pointers as to where it could be coming from?
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Whilst crawling around under the Disco (seems to be a regular thing these days, lol) i noticed that the hoses from the PAS reservoir were rather oily looking, is this a case of loose hoses, or could it be a cracked reservoir?
Is this a common thing amongst Disco's, and has anyone else had a similar problem?
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CHeers all
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you can also use a sprayer designed for brake cleaner, as the seals are the same type of stuff.
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i currently use brake cleaner in a pressure sprayer for lighter duty degreasing - works a treat. for heavier stuff i find that jizer works quite well too.
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is anyone else a bit concerned that at £30 any aldi shopping numpty can be tempted to start hacking his chassis about and then hurtling around the countries highways and byways in a barely held together missile
.......Valid point, same could be said for the parts and tools that are sold from any factors/accessory shop etc...it won't be long before you need a training course to use a hammer.....
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this may help (or not)
This paragraph requires each plate to be fixed -(a) in a vertical position or, where that is not possible, in a position as close to the vertical as is reasonably practicable, and
(b) in such a position that in normal daylight the characters of the registration mark are easily distinguishable, in the case of a plate fixed on the front of the vehicle, from in front of the vehicle and, in the case of a plate fixed on the rear of the vehicle or trailer, from behind the vehicle or trailer.
taken from Display of Registration Plates website
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what isuzu engine is it? i may be able to find you a part number for an aftermarket gasket....
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Thought this was the best place for this, as it relates mainly to the disco's (but also to the RRC softdash?)
How does the coin tray come out on the n/s, above the ash tray?? i've tried to lever it out, pull it out, even tried removing the ashtray to get at it, but it refuses to budge.
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first thing to try would be the cap arm and leads along with a new set of NGK plugs. sounds to me like a the cap and arm are worn, causing the misfire.
one thing to try would be to substitute a known good lead with the suspect one to see if it cures the problem.
lpg is notoriously hard on ignition systems
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Emailed Si and got a response back (cheers for the speedy reply) the total load i will be drawing is going to be around the 60-80 amp range, so i will go with the 100 amp mega fuse.
cheers all
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Try Saracen on Grandstand trading estate, they can probably order some in.
You could use normal ratchet straps as well, it takes some practice to wrap them properly round the wheel, but they can work just as well.
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which is what i thought, although looking at the x-eng site, the relay is capable of handling highter ratings than that?
i'll stick with the 100 amp for now then, if it blows too easily, then i'll go for the 125 amp.
cheers
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Can anyone recommend what size fuse would be best to use with my x-charge?
The relay has got 100 amp on the side of it. Now i'm not going to be running winches or anything seriously heavy off it (yet, anyway), although i may add a connector in the grille at some point to allow easy jump starting of cars if needed. So, in reality, all it will have running on the 2nd battery will be the supply for the spot bar, a 600w inverter, and some interior auxilliary sockets.
I have a choice of mega fuses ranging from 100 amp to 200 amp in 25 amp steps, that will be put in line in the main battery cable from the x-charge to the 2nd battery, just a bit confused about which one to go for???
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also check the steering damper and swivel preloads, as they can both give the symptoms described.
try searching for "death wobble" (IIRC) - should bring up a multitude of results.
try 
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Alternative to pop rivets to secure the rubber cover over the gearbox
in Discovery Forum
Posted
what about the plastic rivets that hold the side sill trims on? or some rivnuts and small bolts?