disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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why not measure out the dimensions of the container on the ground using posts and rope? then you can get a better idea of the floor layout, and have room to shuffle things about before getting to the docks and finding it won't fit. will the sankey dismantle enough to fit as much as possible inside the defender?
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got a similar one off ebay last year, in black, and it's definately resilient to knocks and stuff. only thing is if you hit a low branch at speed on the road, it will whip back quite a lot. although if it's going on the back it won't really matter.
can only really comment on the rubber duck ones from years ago, and they were pretty naff, only good for short range comms so probably be ok for laning.
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mine did it again yesterday on the way to bristol, spookily on the same stretch of road as it did last monday
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got a mate in the trade who buys and breaks disco's and he's on the lookout for a 200 prop and flange to eliminate this problem once and for all.
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it's worth investing in one of those little gizmo's that plug into the lighter socket to retain the codes. IIRC they use a 9v battery as a memory saver function.
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Well i found the source of the vibration under load in my disco - rear prop doughnut was "cough" slightly worn......
slightly worn i think.....
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mine does the same, usually on long journeys, but then i just rely on the sat nav to keep an eye on the speed.
it's usually the sender on the gearbox that's at fault. could be worth checking the wires from there upwards, in case one has got caught somewhere.
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stud should hammer out as IIRC they are a spline fit into the hub.
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this was my disco on an ifor williams when i fetched it last year
used the same trailer the other day to take a van to devon, and it towed beautifully at a steady 60 down the motorway...
IIRC that's a 16 footer....
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what are they for?
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it depends on the tester really. if he/she knows landrover's, then they will be aware that the abs is separate to the main brakes, and that they will still operate if the abs is not functioning, in which case they may be sympathetic and let it pass.
the other way is to make sure that they can't drive it over 5 mph into the test bay
at least then the light won't come on to indicate a fault.of course the other option is to fit a small timer circuit to the lamp so that it goes off after the required 5 seconds
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My disco has developed a strange vibration under load.....It's not a major one, but a slight droning kind of vibration that would appear to eminate from the n/s front wheel area, however, when you back the power off it disappears.
It also becomes constant at about 55-60 mph. I'm 99% sure it's not a wheel bearing, as they usually drone constantly, and don't stop when the go pedal is released, so i'm thinking (along with a trawl through various other posts) prop uj on the front axle.
Any other pointers to watch out for? I shall be investigating the prop tomorrow morning, and if need be will strip and inspect the n/s wheel bearing (and hopefully sort the ABS problem at the same time)
Cheers all
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if the petrol isn't switching off when the lpg kicks in then it sounds to me like one of two things.
1. the relay that cuts power to the fuel pump is not operating properly, and therefore not cutting the feed
2. you have a leaking injector or 2 which is unlikely.....
however, from the sound of the electrical/cooling problems you have got, i would suspect that you have a bad connection somewhere that is shorting things out, causing the gauge to drop. the temp from the heater is a strange one though, unoless the electrical problem is causing the heater to de-power and send things cold - if that makes sense....
first point of call for me would be to check the electrical side of the lpg system, as that is where the problem seems to be
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sounds like a similar system to the one i had on my old disco.
basically twin batteries, linked with the x-eng split charge kit. i then had a 3 position switch on the dash, on, off and momentary on. this allowed me to have both batteries charging, isolate them, or use a 12v supply to energise the relay to allow the spare to jump the master - if that makes sense.
the momentary on part was wired to a fused supply which then did the same job as the alternator trigger wire when the engine was running, and energised the relay to connect the two batteries for self jump start capability
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no idea if they are still there, it's been nearly 10 years since i left the company. AFAIK they are still part of the hartwell collection.
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Was it inspired by the truck in Judge Dread?
A couple of those used tolive behind the showroom at Hartwell Landrover in Cumnor, remember seeing them when i was down there on training courses.
The LRX does look nice, but i hope the production version is a little less wild on the inside.
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yep that's the stuff. did a cracking job on it.
personally i would just bite the bullet and get some, rather than have a load of epoxy putty bonded to the screen that would be a nightmare to shift.
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the best stuff to use is available from pc shops of all places. they sell a permanent epoxy silver adhesive which is perfect for the job. i think the last one i got was from www.overclockers.co.uk
do not use superglue though.......
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Frontera's - expensive to fix when something goes wrong (£90 for a cv boot!!!) and not the most reliable, transfer boxes can give trouble, as well as electrics, and the old diesel lump they put in them was never the best on the block.
Shogun's - plenty of aftermarket support, but can be really expensive when something goes wrong. Common problems at the moment seem to be the head gaskets going on 2.8's, and when they do, they seem to be taking the head out as well.
Disco's - better off road than a range rover, can be altered to suit your needs, and most of the stuff is interchangeable between models. Cheap to buy (but watch for rust
)cheap ish to look after, and most of all, they are fun to drive on and off road. Look at plenty and set a budget for the best one you can find, you won't be disappointed with it.Landrover owners are generally down to earth people who will talk to you about their vehicles, most of the other stuff just seems to attract the school run brigade....
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it has also happened when approaching a 't'junction on tarmac at low speed before and almost caused overshooting the junction
sounds like a sensor fault to me. IIRC you can pull the relays from behind the glovebox, and the main abs fuses which disables the system altogether.
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it could just be the top hose getting old and perishing. had to change one recently on a W plate TD5, and it's a swine of a job getting at the bottom clip
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Dont discount the fact that it could also be your T-box too though, although I dont know how to test for this. Someone with more experience will be along to help soon
i was told to put the transfer box into gear, then engage the main box into the gear that was whining and let the clutch out and rev the engine, if it's the transfer box, then there will be no noise, if it's the main gearbox it will still whine. obviously this won't work for the diffs (unless you've got access to a two post ramp.....)
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I would personally get the overhang equal on both sides, and fit some kind of warning marker to the corners to highlight the overhangs.
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i bought one of the cheap ones off ebuyer (was £50 in the summer) which are now around the £38 mark, then installed the latest tom tom on it, including the western europe maps. works a treat, especially as it was nearly a third of the price of the tomtom.....Clickety Click.....worked a treat taking us to Aberdeen & back last summer
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at least then the light won't come on to indicate a fault.
Turbo hiss / whine
in Discovery Forum
Posted
my 300 does it as well, more noticeable now i've fitted the snorkel and the silicone hoses. did wonder if it was something serious, but power delivery is still fine, so not worrying about it - besides which it sounds nice with the n/s window down