disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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A mate of mine had a similar setup on his Range Rover, although he also had the sill tanks still fitted too - giving a decent gas range.
Basically, the original tank had been removed and replaced by two torpedoes mounted in it's place, and it had a smaller reserve tank in the rear quarter panel.
Why not have a look along the fuel cell route and mount it in the boot?
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what about (and someone can correct me if this sounds wrong) fitting the belt, resetting the cam postion with the belt fitted, then remove the belt, reset the crank and FIP timing points, then reassemble?
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i've got one off a 2.5 n/a that was known to be good before the 200tdi went in....
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For the price, i would consider getting a head set, and giving the cylinder head a proper decoke.
When i did the gasket on the Disco, i pulled the valves, changed the seals, and decoked it all.
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Just had 4 Cooper Discoverer ST's fitted to the Disco, and so far i'm impressed. Only been across some wet muddy grass so far, but not even a hint of slip when powering across it.
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The MFU on my Disco has been playing up since i got it, as in the interior lights don't work properly - not a big issue really, but now it's dark wheni go to work, and come home, it can be a PITA sometimes. All the other functions it controls appear to work fine, wipers etc...is it something simple like dry solder joints, like the window ECU, or is it a bit more complex to sort?
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Very clever - pity you couldn't have made it detachable instead.
Could be done with a newer style trolley jack, as most of them have reomvable saddles, which can be purchased separately (Sealey ones can anyway)
Very nice idea though.
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have got bearmach hd springs and tuffback shocks on the back of my disco, and they are fantastic. sits nice and level, and can doesn't sag too much when there is a trailer on the back loaded up with bales/cars/gravel or anything else for that matter.
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do you mean the catch that holds it shut, or the bit for locking it?
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yep, under the dash on the rh side....
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i'm sure an adult will be along shortly to advise on the wiring side of things, but i would suggest finding somewhere inside the cab for the relays, would simplify the wiring then, as you wouldn't have to run cables from inside the cab to the engine bay, and then back inside the cab to the switches etc....
Maybe a fuseboard on the bulkhead behind the seats somewhere....
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but when it idles for a while it starts to smoke very bad
from experience it's the turbo output seal.
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Are those fog lamp connectors the same as the ones for the aux switch panel in a RRC? ie for the interior light, cruise control etc...???
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I can hear the worms shuffling in their can already on this one.......
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The Ranger is basically a Ford badged Mazda B2500 pick up. Milner are damn good for Jap stuff, and anything from the East. Not sure if they ship that far though.
How old is the Ranger?
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Remember the hydrogen generator that used water and the car battery to generate the gas?
it's been proved as snake oil here
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Found this website and thought it was worth a mention. Had a nose around it, and it has got loads of useful wiring diagrams and tips on there.
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Had the same problem on mine recently, after stripping and rebuilding the head to do the stem seals (it needed a de coke after 160k anyway) as i thought it was one of those leaking, it turned out to be the turbo seal on the exhaust side (after everyone on here told me it would be that
but me being me, i didn't think it would be. -
lift pump, sedimenter or fuel filter blocked. change the fuel filter first, and drain any fluids out of the sedimenter (it's under the RH rear, behind the shock bracket)
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James May has been round that one - especially with the wood interior and wood burner.
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had a quick dig around about these, and apparently they kick out enough light to be used as a sidelamp, and that's about it - useless as fog/drive lamps though.
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Anyone else notice the foot wide gap between the rear edge of the bonnet and the bottom of the screen???
other than that, my labrador likes it for the dog kennel on the back.....and now, exit stage left with white stick in hand......
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The other option is to replace the sills with box section. Not only will this solve the rust problem if properly waxoiled/undersealed etc...but it will also allow you to jack the vehicle up from under the sills as well.
There are a few threads in the members vehicle section on how others have done this - i'm sure one of the grown ups who have got the "Discover Sill Replacement" Blue Peter badge will be along with a link before long....
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and the other big change is R380 is £50 of oil change to flush through as its MTF and the LT85 at £10 as its 20/50
They saw you coming last time you wanted MTF94......We had some in today with an RRP of 25 beer tokens.
As for the comparison, the R380 in the tdi i have got now feels a lot smoother and nicer to shift than the LT77 did in the V8. Before i got rid of the V8 i had to move it around the car park at home a few times, and the difference between the two was gargantuan. The LT felt very "positive" in it's shift, although it didn't feel anywhere near as nice as the R380 that i have now.
Personally i would go for an Ashcroft R380, and even go so far as to talk to Dave down there about what you want from it, and see if he can accommodate you accordingly with stronger bearings etc where required.
but me being me, i didn't think it would be.
where to buy workshop trolley jack??
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
another vote for sealey kit - can be pricey, but worth it. been using a yankee 2 ton workshop jack of theirs for 3 years now, and still as good as the day i got it