V8david

Shoot me down if you need to, I apologise for my ignorance Can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere... I want to replace the rusted steel fuel lines on my 1989 RRC (3.5 V8 Efi). What I would like to do is run rubber fuel injection hose right from the tank to the engine and back again. With suitable fittings/clamps etc. Is this ok/legal? Anyone done it? Cheers Dave

Sorry for starting this! Interesting though...

Thanks for all the replies, very interesting. I'm lining it all up at the moment, currently held in with a few self tappers and the body mount. Feels bloody sturdy already! I will weld it up then weld it in once it's in one piece. Has anyone used the poly body mount rubbers? Never seen them before and just come across them: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rangerover-P38-Body-to-Chassis-Mounting-Bushes-in-Polyurethane-ANR1504-/280977010655 Less likely to split than the rubber?

I know! Those are the two particularly bad ones on mine (so far ). Amazingly the two at the back of the engine bay are fine. Thank god given their position...

Thanks for the super fast replies. Bugger... I thought that'd be the case. I didn't know just how bad the body mounts are for cultivating rot until I took the front two off! The NS one is thankfully salvagable (just), rest of that wing is also fine. I think I might just visit the rest of the body mounts now even though they look ok, save them from themselves! Thanks again. Dave

Hi all This I assume has been done to death but anyway... I am carrying out the old chestnut of replacing the front OS inner wing on my 1989 RRC. It's off and everything's cleaned up ready to put the new one on. Does it have to be welded or can I bolt the new one on (at the bulkhead end particularly)? Just thinking that if it was bolted on instead of welded everything could be fully painted and undersealed and rustproofed all over before putting it together. Were the original classics front inner wings bolted on? It would also be much easier to re-do again in another 25 years ( ). Cheers Dave p.s. What do you recommend painting it with once it's in?

Apparently if you haven't got an exhaust gas analyser, the mixture screw on the airflow meter should be screwed all the way in, then back out 2 and a half turns. This is supposed to give you a near enough mix. Have you worked through the flapper diagnostics book in the tech archive? Really is worth doing and allows you to eliminate possible problems, find faults with components if they are there.

That's great, thanks Nige. I'll give that a go.

Sorry, just read this and realised I've been asking if my fuel pressure is norman... NORMAL is what I meant. So.... has anyone with a flapper efi system measured their fuel pressure and what did you get?

Thermotime switch is nearest the front, temp sensor just behind it. Careful when buying a coolant temp sensor, there's some absolute sh*te about. I gave up in the end and tested mine to find it was ok anyway.

Hi all RRC 3.5 Efi Flapper 1989 As the title really. I've installed a fuel pressure gauge in the 9th injector hose for diagnostics. I'm getting 28 psi at tickover, 34 psi if I pull the vacuum hose off the back of the regulator (no fuel coming from the vacuum hose on the regulator, so that seems fine). When I switch the engine off the fuel pressure sits at 34 psi, after an hour or so it starts to drop slowly, in the early 20's after 2 hours, 0 psi the following morning. So my question is, is that norman? What does yours do? Reason is I can smell a faint whiff of petrol in the oil so am trying to diagnose dribbling injectors. Is it just a case of lifting the fuel rail and injectors, pressurising the system and seeing if any of the injectors leak? Cheers David

Brilliant page. One lesson learned though, f#*king with the headlights NEVER works!

Test for the above ^^^ in the tech archive, flapper diagnostics.

You have a pm mate. Much appreciated.

Has anyone got a known good working 3.5 flapper ECU in the Hereford area that I could borrow to swap out mine for for diagnostics purposes? Very much appreciated if you have.

Just to finish this one off for future reference. Took the circuit board out of the Gemini box and gave it a bloody good clean with contact cleaner from Maplin. Two months on and it is still fine. Always first thing to try... A bloody good clean

Second that. Keep the air and fix it, brilliant when it's working. And, as said,original.

Quick question regarding how well screwed down an ECU should be. While running through the flapper diagnostics (1989 3.5 Efi) I pulled the ECU (4CU) from under the drivers seat. There are 3 screws holding it down. The way they were screwed down the ECU sort of had it's own suspension. The back one (opposite end to the wiring connection, nearest the door) was almost tight down, the front two were only partly screwed in so the unit could spring up and down a bit, as if it has it's own suspension as I said. Is this right? Or should all three screws be down tight so the ECU is actually fixed to the car? Stupid question I know, sorry! Just seemed like a possibly good idea in an offroad vehicle but then the way it seemed to 'work' was a bit half-hearted, loose screws and the like! So.... is your ECU fixed down tight or is it springy?!

Brilliant, thanks Snagger. That's exactly the answer I was looking for. Cheers.

Turns out it wasn't the fuse, that killed the power to the alarm/immobiliser. Pulling it must've sort of reset the circuit. Anyway, got the alarm/immobilser (Gemini unit) off the vehicle and exposed the circuit board. Plugged it all back in and tried locking/unlocking. There are about 4 small relays on the board which all click in sequence and make the indicators flash on and off (among other things I assume). One of these must be sticking. Question now is, where can I get this checked/repaired? When it's off the vehicle I can't start it, when It's on the indicators are stuck on. How do you (can you without damaging it?) check relays on a circuit board? Upshot is at least I know where the fault is...

Cheers Snagger. Problem solved (or at least found) today. The central locking/immobiliser box seems to have it's own (smaller sounding) relay for operating the flashers when locking/unlocking. This has three wires coming out of it which have in line fuses, one of them was getting a bit warm while I was locking/unlocking. Anyway, took it out, not blown, so cleaned it and put it back in. All seems to be working now. At least I know where to look in future. Thanks for the help. Them pesky after market alarm/immobilisers!!!!!

Cheers mate. I'll try swapping it out and see what happens. Can someone who is familiar with the wizardry of electrickery explain how the f*cking things stay on even when I pull the relay out, and the relevant fuse?

found this with a search... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54981&hl=indicators Forgotten all about that! So that's another part of the story, they were doing that in 2010, came off the road/engine out in 2011, started again and now problem worse in 2013! Another thing I forgot to add, they seem to stick on after I've locked/unlocked a few times. If I disconnect the battery (only way I can turn them off) everything starts working again after an hour or two. Just disconnecting then re-connnecting the battery doesn't make them go off. Would this point to the flasher relay? I'm just going to have to buy a flasher relay aren't I and see what happens...

Hi all 1989 RRC The indicators are staying on and not flashing, just on. All of them, front, back and sides. If I try to put the hazards on the flasher relay clicks once and stops, all indicators stay on. If I pull the flasher relay out all the indictors stay on. They do randomly start working again. But equally randomly stop. The immobiliser/central locking is supposed to make them flash 3 times when I unlock, and stay on for a few seconds when I lock. It seems to be sticking on when I go to unlock, but not every time. Is it likely, or does it sound like, a faulty flasher relay thingy or does it sound like something to do with the central locking system/immobiliser? Would a bad earth make them all stay on? Just got her running again after almost 2 years, this is the thanks I get...

Thanks for the replies, this is indeed the very same engine with the now fixed oil leaks! I was home and dry (literally) with my bomb proof gaskets. The ARP torque setting specifications are 80lb/ft so the heads are well and truly attached to the engine. I checked the peg clearance when investigating the oil leaks, which was/is fine. The faces of heads and block were/are so good that I can only assume the heads must be cracked. I hope not but at least I'd know. All will be revealed when I get round to it. The RR remains as a beautiful ornament for now!