V8david

1989 RR 3.5 My heated rear screen is not working, hasn't for quite a while. Put it off for ages but really getting annoying now. Element on the screen is fine, as are the connectors in each corner, as is the wiring inside the roof at the back (pulled down head lining to check) The fuse is fine. There doesn't seem to be any voltage to the fuse though, or the switch. I have swapped the switch for another one but that made no difference. Also, basic I know, but when I pull out and put back other fuses I can see a little spark, as I remake the circuit, but this doesn't happen with the rear demist fuse. As I said very basic but that's my knowledge of electrics. Been clicking about on the net and read alot on other vehicle forums and help sites about rear heated screen relays? Do old RR's have one and if so where is it? Any general hints and tips on where to start looking/checking would be much appreciated. I do have a multimeter which'll obviously help if anyone can tell me what/how to check stuff. Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Just to draw a line under this tyre wear business if anyone's interested... I got a replacement front axle off a mate (cheers Gav), swapped my diff over to new axle, fitted all new bearings, swivel balls and seals to new axle and fitted it to the vehicle. Tyre wear seems to be even now (been waiting to update to see if the problem is fixed). So basically something in the area of the front axle was bent and knackering the tyre. No idea what but the moral of the story is... If in doubt try replacing large sections of your vehicle and you're bound to solve the problem no matter how small!

Per lead?!?!?!? Jesus, has he hand woven them and brought them on foot across the Andes, then swum with them in his teeth across the Atlantic?!? I got genuine land rover leads from the land rover dealer for about £30. Any more than that is ridiculous.

Any luck with this one yet Gavlar? No surprise you managed to pull the bolt through the timing cover!!! Haaa!! You're too big for your own good mate... Get some NGK spark plugs. May as well. I've got them. Anyway, sorry I can't help mate. Hope all is well (apart from this). At least me not helping will get this topic back to the top of the list for a bit! Speak to you soon mate.

have you got a brake calliper sticking?

Cheers Steve. Yes mate, been through an 'uprated' jobby I wasn't too impressed with and now back to a standard. I removed front shocks yesterday ready to weld nice chunky washers on. The guide holes on the top of the axle are quite badly ovalised and I can see on the surfaces of the guide washers and the axle around the holes that the shocks have been sliding about. I'll get them welded on today and have a test drive, see if anything changes. Will update!

Yes mate, new ball joint and bushes all round. No play in the wheel bearings, bottom link brackets still securely welded to the axle!

Thanks for the thoughts guys. My thinking is the shock holes. I did trim the shock pins as they were very close to the axle. Having looked, the bottom guide holes for the shock absorbers, the ones in the top of the axle, are pretty ovalised. So I guess the guide washers haven't got anything to guide against? So what's the best fix? Do i buy some nice chunky washers with a suitable internal diameter to house the guide washers and weld them to the axle? Battery's in tight and pads and retaining bits are all present and correct, panhard rod and radius arm holes are good. thanks again. I'll update when (if it ever!!!) gets fixed. PS cheers darren, will have a look.

I can't seem to trace a REALLY annoying clonk that seems to be coming from the front axle area on my 1989 RRC. It's done it since I bought it and I've never managed to track it down. So far I've replaced (not just for the clonk): All bushes, springs, shocks, swivel balls/bearings, wheel bearings, hub seals, new front axle (recon) which meant different swivel housings and half shafts etc., track rod ball joints, drop arm ball joint, steering rods, steering damper, A-frame ball joint and any other f*cking thing that moves on the bottom of the truck. Now all that work was fun and interesting and more often than not a f*cking pain in the arse but the clonk has never gone. Checked all bearings, no play. I can't make it do it by jumping on either end when parked. When I had the front shocks out the other week i bounced the front end around and it wouldn't do it. It only seems to clonk when the front axle is articulating, more noticeably when driving very slowly, like if i slow right down and ease over a speed bump or something. I can also get it when I come to a stop. If I brake to a stop and turn at the same time it'll do it. Everythings tightened and re-tightened but nothing has ever made the slightest bit of difference. Any ideas appreciated. Cheers.

My rear wiper motor stopped working. Blew the fuse a few times before dying completely. In true british leyland fashion it didn't like it when it rained! Just took it off in the end and taped up the hole for now, til I get a 2nd hand unit. I think the units jam, you may be able to take it apart and clean/lube it. Do a search on here, i'm sure i've seen it before. Good luck.

seeing as no one else has replied i will! Sounds good to me... Exactly what I'd do. Post another pic when you're done.

Cheers guys, tightened the exhaust manifold nuts, couple of them took a couple of turns, most were tight. Anyway, noise gone! Onto the next problem...

Check earth straps as well. Mine was cutting out intermitently, cleaned/moved earth locations and all was fine. Worth a look and costs nowt for a change

Hi DC I'd get them from... larger seal and... small seal They're really good I've found. Usually got a picture of stuff as well so you know what you're looking at. I know what you mean about the ratchet spanner Geoff, I've had a few stuck in various places on the engine! Thought does cross your mind to leave it there...

Thanks for all the thoughts guys. Update as follows... Checked timing again and set it to 12 degrees BTDC. (been advised by many that the extra 4 degrees advance is ideal for LPG). Running much better now but still getting the noise. Pleased I finally got off my arse and sorted the timing... I'll start with the exhaust manifold first, at least I can narrow it down to one bank! Then on to injectors beyond that (good thought Geoff ) Not sure when I'll get round to it though. I know the exhaust manifold bolts you're talking about. The very back ones, especially nasty with the tubular manifolds. Much stripped knuckles, swearing and tool throwing happened when I was tightening them up! I'll update when I've had a look... Thanks again.

Well latest update. Tried her cold around the block today, just on petrol (not done that for a long time!) Anyway, same noise, same symptoms. Doesn't really matter what the speed is, it's when the engine's working hard. i.e accelerating hard uphill. This is what can bring the noise back slightly even when the engine is warm. I'll try to have a look at the timing tomorrow and report back. If that doesn't change anything then I'll look at gaskets. May even try a short film on my digital camera, see if I can't capture the noise for you to hear!

Nice one. Cheers for the replies guys, i will investigate further! I'm on LPG. Only start it on petrol, runs a bit rough on it, really smooths out once the LPG kicks in. I assume the timing is advanced more for the LPG. Anyway, as I said, I will have a check over everything...

Thanks for the replies guys. Yes, changed everything recently!! Had the heads off etc. New cam, lifters etc etc, as well as all gaskets. Definitely only coming from one cylinder, would pinking do that? When warmed up it gets much quieter and harder to hear, not at all unless I push really hard, which makes me think is it oil draining down over night stopping a lifter working? Or is it a tiny gap somewhere that closes up with heat? When you say manifolds DC, do you mean exhaust or inlet? Obviously I've had both off. I'll start by re-checking the timing. It's set off the timing marks on the crank pulley at the moment so could be way out. Should've found TDC properly when I had it all apart...

Hi all. Got a loud sort of tapping noise that's started and got worse of late. It's worst when the engine is cold and accelerating, usually starts around 2000rpm. It gets louder as I accelerate, stops when I ease off and stays away unless I put the gas back on hard again. Much better once it's warmed up but still comes back slightly under hard acceleraion. Definitely coming from one cylinder area. Is it a tappet? Worth doing an engine flush/oil change? 3.5 V8 Efi. Cheers

There's alot of P38a owners on Landyzone. From my experience you get some very good answers on there. I'm not a P38a owner but I've read alot about them!

This is where I got mine... Tailgate Really cheap and never had a problem with it.

Yeah, give him a ring, he's really helpful. I also got one of these for mine GearSelectorThingy. That was when I used to spoil my truck...

Steep Am I missing something or is that a bit steep?!? Unless the gold paint is actually gold leaf I really can't justify it...

Pain in my arse... alot... But I still love her....

Cheers knudsen, that sounds like quite alot of allowable play. You're right, I'll dive under the next RR I see and waggle theirs. Will check out RAVE as well...