V8david

Thanks guys. I hoped you'd say that.

Hi All Range Rover classic 1989. Just removed the plastic trims from inside the front wheel arches for access. Question is, is it absolutely necessary to put them back? Anyone running without them with any problems? They obviously stop crud and water from spraying too far up inside the wing, but they also trap LOADS of crud behind them, obviously causing extensive rot. Got enough rot traps as it is. I assume there was no such thing under the winds of earlier rangies...

They have a very similar overall shape but definitely will not fit right/look right. Disco doors have a sort of V groove that runs along the vehicle just below the door handles, they then have a little step out just above the rubbing strip jobbie. RRC doors step in then step out again further down. I agree there are lots of interchangeable parts, we are talking about british leyland at the end of the 80's after all, but they will not be a simple 'swap' which is what I believe Darren is after.

Thank you, that sounds simple enough!

Hi all. Got the block out and on the stand (3.5 V8), and stripped apart from the dipstick tube. Now i'm being a bit of a dipstick but I assume the dipstick tube can be removed, question is how? Just checking as I don't want to break anything...

short answer, no. the black frame bit looks like it could be, as well as some of the internals, but the skins definitely not.

Many thanks for the super fast reply, much appreciated. There is a thread round here somewhere with the figures relating to box numbers from Ashcrofts. I shall attempt to find it... Thanks again. found it... Post 8 in above thread gives Ashcrofts dimensions...

3.5 V8 mated to ZF 4 speed autobox, 1989 Well the engine popped out like a dream today, unfortunately so did the torque converter... I know about relocating it correctly and possible damage if not done properly. My question is what should the dimension be from the bellhousing face to the torque converter lug faces? If this is right you know it's properly located? Also, as and when the engine is put back in the vehicle and the box and engine are reunited, how do you access the bolts to fix the torque converter to the flex plate? Is it through the starter motor aperture in the bellhousing or from underneath with the bellhousing bottom faceplate jobby removed?

****part mailorder that 2 door looks bloody awful! Poor thing, bet it feels embarrassed in public in the daylight.

Anyone remember the RRC driven by the Colombian drug barons in 'Clear and Present Danger'? Looked brilliant speeding up that dirt track. New topic - films/tv programs with classics in them...

Brilliant.

some even say early 1996... february apparently. It was cold and wet and the corrosion started as the factory door opened for it to be wheeled out... in fact i've nerded it and apparently Noel bloody Edmonds drove it off the line. February 15 apparently... tosser in a rr

Thanks for the advise both, and the links. Good point about possibly being copies Nige, hadn't thought of that. By the time I've paid taxes etc. anyway I might as well stick to a known reputable source in this country. Thanks again, v8tuner it is...

Thanks Nige... You're too quick!

Hi Is this the right head stud kit? Seems cheap. Less than £120 including delivery. ARP stud kit Thing is am I going to have to pay a load of some sort of tax on that once it arrives in the country? Also, can anyone recommend a place to buy ARP studs? So much comes up on google... Cheers

Told you I didn't have a fu#king clue. Sorry...

Hi Roland I have no idea about electrics but was the battery disconnected when you were swapping ECU's? How long was it disconnected for? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for half an hour or so, letting the ECU 'reset' then re-connecting and trying again? Two more points: 1: Don't worry about your English, it's much better and clearer than most English people I know! 2: The 'friend' who suggested the ECU swap in the first place... When this is all fixed are you going take the spare ECU and insert it as far up his arse as your arm will reach?! Hope you get it fixed. Good luck.

their mail order side is a bloody disgrace!!! Felt like I was banging my head against a very large brick wall! Vowed never to darken their website again, let alone order off the useless b@stards. Unbelievable customer service! I'll look out for other adwest suppliers, isn't MM an adwest supplier? Anyway, cheers for that.

Cheers for that. I thought that might be the case. As I said this is a recon replacement and I'd happily swap it for one with a leak as small as the one it replaced! Anyone recommend a reliable recon supplier? This one was from MM and it's been quite frankly dogsh1t. Love the way it REALLY started pissing fluid out once the warranty had gone!

Hi. As topic says really. Power steering box is leaking badly. It was covered in fluid so i wiped it clean and waited to establish where the leak was coming from. The four bolts on the top seem to be holding down a plate to the main body of the box. The leak is coming from between the plate and the body of the box. My question is, what's between that top plate (held down by the four bolts) and the box itself? Is there a gasket? Easily replaced? Also the worse the leak seems to have got the more wobbly the steering seems to be getting. I've kept the level topped up so the fluid hasn't dropped too low. Every time i see a picture of one of these boxes on ebay etc., they always seem to have a similar coating of fluid on them. So my final question is are these boxes just carp? I replaced mine with a reconditioned one a couple of years ago and this leak is MUCH worse than the one I replaced. Help/suggestions much appreciated...

As already said mate, you're well past saving the old bush. I had to use a grinder on mine, front AND rear. As said, slice up between the bracket and the trailing arm on at least on side then pry/pull the arm down and out. As said from the sound of it you're well past saving the bush if they're that seized. Sack off the polybushes anyway. Replace with OE originals...

Cheers mate. Good to know the part numbers. I guess the only way to answer the insitu bit is to undo one and see if it comes out...

Hi, RRC 1989. Taken off the bumpers to rub down and put some paint on, think landrover forgot... Anyway, 21 year old rubber body mounts between body and chassis are looking very tired. Can you/has anyone replaced theirs one at a time, propping up the body around each one as you do it? I see there's a bolt through the bracket on the body, rubber mount and bracket on the chassis. If you prop the body and undo and slide out the bolt will the mount slide out? Pop the new one in.. new bolt back through... tighten up... 21 more years service?!? Also does anyone have part numbers for the rubber mounts? How many are there per mounting point? 2? I've had a look around and found 'ANR1504'. Is that it? Rimmers list a P38 part for that number but others list what looks like the right part. Anyway, any help appreciated... cheers.

Hi, 1989 RR 3.5 My fantastic 1989 alarm immobiliser is linked to the central locking (obviously), normal routine is the indicators flash 3 times when I unlock, which gives me 10 seconds max to start her before the immobilser kicks in. When I switch off, get out and lock up the indicators stay on (not flashing) for about 3 seconds before going off. Latetly though the indicators have been staying on (not flashing, just on) after either operation. They go off eventually if I lock and unlock a few times but it's getting worse/more frequent. I couldn't even override them with the hazard switch. Question is where should I start looking? Is it a fault with the indicator relay? That's my first thought as the immobiliser still works in relation to the central locking, I can still start the engine and drive off with all the indicators on. Don't want to be locking/unlocking too much as I've heard about burning out the central locking control unit. Cheers Dave

Ah! Voltage sensitive switch. I've just been reading my owner's manual and read about it. My next question was going to be "where is that?". Thanks for that rqsall. I'll have a look for that tomorrow, hopefully that'll sort it. Makes sense as the whole circuit seems to be dead. Will report back good or bad... Thanks again