NeilF

Hi, I've recently developed an ABS fault. Three lights came on with three bongs, though I'm pretty sure one of them wasn't the HDC light, but the ABC, TC and handbrake lights (not the three amigos?). Switching the ignition on they all go out with the exception of the ABS light, which then goes off after reaching 5mph. It stays off under normal driving and braking, but step on the brakes over loose stuff, and three lights come on again. I've searched the forums but didn't see anything relevant The fact that the light goes out normally suggests that it is not hub bearings or sensors? What else might I look out for before going to the Main Stealer or investing in a Nanocom? 02 Disco II, TD5

Well, I've replaced the window regulator, and I have to say it was easy and I had no problems. However, contrary to the expectations of the forum, it wasn't the spot welds that let go (there are three on mine; maybe the extra one is consequent to this known deficiency). Taking off the trim, the only bit at the bottom of the door was a half of one of the nylon wheels from the regulator. The whole thing was disjointed and the various arms bent at their ends - probably something came adrift and the motor forced metal bits in directions not designed for! Anyway, thanks again to the forum for all the advice.

Yeah, I'd been reading the other thread, but since my symptoms were slightly different, I suppose I was hoping that it was something easy.....oh well, needs must, but I hate trying to work large square objects out of small round holes

Just yesterday, the passenger window started to go down on the front edge only. moving it up and down straightened it a little but now it's making a horrible racket even when fully up. Any ideas of what I should be looking for?

That was exactly my experience, and no amount of spraying with soapy water revealed the leak. A new airbag was quickly and easily fitted (cut the pipe and shove it in the new bag fitting). My problem was that it didn't inflate afterwards. Search the threads for possible solutions - not quite sure which sorted it for me (I think it might have been the dancing naked, clockwise round the car by the light of a full moon)

Postscript: I went to the supermarket and loaded up with the weeks shopping, including a case of beer. Came back, unloaded and tried the off-road height again. It pumped up perfectly and then came back down again. Perfect! I think my impression of the high ride height was skewed by it being on the bump stops for the last three days. I would like to offer my thanks to all those on the forum who offered their valuable advice, either directly or indirectly (archived posts) Despite the fact that changing the air spring was very easy, the post-fitting traumas experienced by myself and several others, and the range of 'cures' make it a bit of a "black art". I, for one, was about to shake my bag of bones and feathers at it as a last resort. Again, many thanks to the forum for having better ideas.

I drove it round the block and by the time I got back into the drive, it was UP! But... now it seems too high, and the the button for the ride height still does nothing, but beep and go out when I take my finger off.

I jacked up the body and switched the engine off and on 5 times. I thought I had cracked it because the airbag inflated and took on the proper shape. However, when I lowered the body, the bag collapsed. I disconnected the battery and tried again. I drove over some wood several times. When I try to raise the ride height, the light on the dash comes on and it beeps, but goes out as soon as I let go of the button. I'd hate to go to the main dealer with my tail between my legs............

Help! Panic! fire flood and tempest! I got a new air spring in from Craddocks. I jacked up the car and removed the wheel. I removed the clips from the top of the old airspring, but of course, couldn't remove the old one because it was fully compressed. So, I supported the chassis and dropped the axle. I then proceeded to remove the old air spring. I cut the pipe close to the old connector. Putting in the new one, it was a lot longer (unfolded?) than the old. I had to squash it a bit to get it in. Seated the bayonet, pushed the pins through the top plate and secured with the clips. Pushed the cut end of the pipe into the connector. Then raised the axle and put on the wheel. The new air spring is really squashed on itself here. Dropped the axle and turned on the engine. Nothing. Nada. completely squashed. What did I do wrong? More to the point, what do I do now?

Thanks for the feedback! The car stayed up overnight and went down when parked during the day. While the drivers side was worse, the passenger side was also down. Is there no cross talk at all between the two side? If not, and bearing in mind the negative fairy liquid test on the air bag, could this suggest another problem area? I will replace the drivers side and see how it goes. If that cures it, well and good; if not (and if it stays up on that side, but goes down on the other) then I'll replace the other side. If it still goes down....lets not go there yet

Well, it's started to go down much more regularly, and although it certainly starts at the drivers side, the other side seems to go down too, in sympathy. Is there full separation between the two sides? New one on order from Craddocks - even with postage, it's one third of the price of one from the dealers here. I was thinking of having a go at replacing it myself, is there anything particularly tricky about it?

Is there any online downloadable workshop manual for the Disco 2? Failing that is there any other worthwhile alternative to the Haynes one? Forgive me if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find it.

I pumped it up and did the spray test with diluted fairy liquid and didn't see anything. It hasn't gone down since (up to 36 hrs without touching the car). But it didn't go down for no reason.....

Thank you very much, I'll do the spray test, but if it takes a day or two to go down, will I see much?. I need to do a longish drive next week; Is it likely to get worse quickly or will it wait 'till I get back? Addendum: Just called the Dublin main dealer - 290 +VAT for one air spring! Arghhh!, I feel online shopping coming on......

After a couple (3?) of days of not using the car, I noticed the suspension was down quite a bit on the drivers side. It pumped up ok, and went up to off road height easy enough. Overnight, it doesn't seem to have gone down; does this constitute a leak in the air bag? How bad does it need to get before you need to replace? Do you need to do both sides at the same time?

I'd never heard of this - seems too good to be true, and therefore probably isn't - I did find this..... http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/capacitive-coupling.htm . If it worked, why isn't it OEM? Here's another view: http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car/car-electronic-rust.htm Every other forum discussion or independent article that I have read says the same thing - it can't work 'cos there is no electrolyte to complete the circuit. I have sacrificial anodes on my outboard (and the've been doing this for decades) and it works because it's immersed in sea water..... Sorry to rain on your parade.......

There is a company in Ireland, Auto-tune, who do a TD5 remap to 370 Nm and 174 BHP. Is this a reasonable level? I'm interested in increased fuel economy and a little extra umph, when required. It's a EPROM remap, rather than an overide-type chip. They are not specialised in LR, but do a big list of cars

This site: http://www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel.html has a lot of information on biodiesel. Specifically, on straight vegetable oil (SVO) as fuel: http://www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_svo.html

Interestingly, there is an alternative thread on biodiesel/vegetable oil: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=20963, which relates some other points of view with some members reporting different experiences. I keep meaning to have a go at making bigger quantities of top-notch biodiesel, but I've only one life............... I tried the traction control vs diff lock thread, looked at the You Tube movie, but was none the wiser....... as someone who has a DII with the transfer box innards missing, it was of some interest. At the present, I can't justify the expense of putting in the missing bits.

Thank you very much! I had had visions of leaving the car parked overnight with a continual electrical drain going on......

This pulsing noise which comes on once in a while - I've located it to a box-like structure underneath the car in the approximate position of the passenger seat???

Yes, sorry I was so imprecise - I just want to exit the mic wire from the back of the radio in the simplest way possible. I know it's probably rather trivial, but my usual experience of removing plastic trim is by the time I've worked out how it's supposed to come off, I've already broken it...

Yes my first thought was to exit via the binnacle - even placing the mic around here would be ok. I note that the binnacle is only held on with two screws, but hidden behind the steering wheel - how do you get at them? How is the covering to the A post attached? easy to get off?

I'm looking for suggestions on how and where (with the least effort!) to lead a microphone wire from behind the stereo head unit to the outside, probably around the area of the instrument binnacle or the A post

I couldn't sit still, so went out in the dark to pull the old Tevion unit. It has a single iso conector, but this leads to an adapter holding a pair of iso connectors (and they look like the A and B of the new unit), which in turn leads another multi connector.. it's crowded back there! But. There is an unconnected pink and another unconnected white wire..any ideas? And where can I lead the microphone wire to the outside?