ronnie_rotten

.....if it is the clutch pressure switch, bridging it will have had what effect exactly? I imagine unplugging it would have it disabled, and bridging would leave it permanently on? Or is it the reverse?

Resolved! Plug for the clutch pressure switch which I will hunt out in poke around with when the sun joins us.

I think that's the way. As long as it doesn't arm the self destruct mechanism....!

Ok. Definitely not the oil pressure plug, I found that and it's plugged in. I took a few more pictures to see if it helps identify this mystery plug...

The bayonet cap on the resevoir a flat ish black plug and wire and the float is inside the cap too. But that was my first thought, couldn't find anywhere else in the area to plug it in though. Maybe I'll pull the scotch lock tomorrow and see if anything lights up.

This plug is on a short spur of loom in the area of the brake header tank. It has 2 wires, black/White and black/green. They've been bridged using one if the devil's own scotch locks. Does anybody know what the plug is for, why it's unplugged, and what bridging the wires is hiding/achieving? I asked elsewhere and sombody asked if my oil pressure light worked, which on inspection it doesn't. No light on start up with all the others. Relevant?

Well it's not unhelpful! Saves me buying 36mm bulbs and funding hey don't fit! Let us know what you find out.

LED bulbs seem to be finally reaching a more sensible price, so I'm considering swapping out all the old skool bulbs with their LED equivalents. I'd also like to change the colour of the dashboard lights from green as it's a bit.....ugh. I shouldn't struggle too much with the usual rear bulbs, stop/tail etc, but is there a comprehensive list anywhere detailing the interior and dash bulb TYPES, not part numbers? There must be tonnes in between the binnacle, a/c controller, switches, click etc. All the 'sets' on ebay seem quite expensive, but I guess that is due to someone having taken the time to identify each bulb type and bundle them for convenience. So....list of bulbs anywhere anyone?

I ended up having to ditch it too as the code i was given for it wasn't the right one. At first I thought I was inputting it wrong, but even I can't mess something up 5 times in a row without learning from the experience.

Then I'll worry no more. Cheers.

Nice one. That's the kind of sensible wiring diagram I like! Always good to have somebody spell it out, saves potential disaster on occasion.

....This does! http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?s=Car%20Stereo%20Fitting%20Kits&c=Active%20Harness%20Adaptor&product_code=H2L

Yeah, I get the idea, but that doesn't exactly plug into my wiring harness and solve the problem, does it?

Hadn't thought of that. Good idea.I've found a product that will do exactly what I want it to : the H2L (high to low) made by Autoleads. It's 50 quid, so if the volume adjust doesn't work I may try and replicate it using high to low 'line output converters', rca leads, iso leads, wire strippers and heat shrink insulation. And a smoke detector

I think I'm happy to accept your diagnosis. Not least so I can tell the missus that's what it when she hears it for the first time. It's definitely coming from underneath and not under the bonnet. Disco fart. An all too common occurrence among air sprung land rover owners.

Hmmm. The spund happend maybe 5 sdconds after i got oit of the car and started walkng away. I'm thinking nothing to do with cooling system. Thankfully. It was the kind of noise a crappy argos electric tyre pump makes so I'm going to stick with my donkey's guess that it was the compressor firing up for some reason. Will the SLS system still do it's thing after the engine is switched off? Where I parked it isn't pool table flat. Might this be a sign that there's a slow leak in one of the air springs and the sls is trying to work after hours? Not too uncommon fir the bags to perish i understand?

I'll put money on the OP being a resident of the emerald Isle. Everything over here is a Jeep. Or a Yoke.

Ok. Another day, another question! When I turned off the Disco earlier what I assume was the compressor made a slightly unhappy sounding grumble. It lasted about a second, stopped for 2 or 3 seconds and grumbled again. It did this 2 or 3 times. Thoughts?

I read something similar albeit talking about a p38 amplifier. It seems the volume was last set quite high before the stock radio was removed and swapped for the one I have no code for. This might be better than having been left on zero, at least I can use the unit I've fitted up to number 6 before it gets too loud. I might have see if I can find a service to extrapolate the radio code from the serial number on it. The only other thing I can think of is to try and find a magic box to go in between the head unit and amp to drop the output by 20db or so, down to a pre-amp level or close to it.

Talk about 'ships in the night '! If and when you get chance, I'd appreciate it, but no rush! I can see where something has been attached previously in front of the 3rd row seats, so I expect that was the mountings for a dog guard, now sadly absent

.....I just pulled my stock radio as the code I've been given for it doesn't work. I put in my old Sony head with usb and aux input instead. Can't turn it up past 5! In my old car I'd normally have it up around 20. Is there a way to turn the stock amplifier volume down so I can get a bit more control of the stereo volume? It seems that every panel in the car needs a little something doing to stop it rattling like a 19 year old's Saxo in a supermarket car park. I'm old now, and want clarity of sound, not vibrating panels!

Does .gaf3 even sound like an eka code? Never used one before. Note: in the interests of security I may or may not have substituted one or more of the digits in the code for something different.

Well I just got a message from the guy who sold me the truck. His dad owns an indie land rover garage and he said he'd managed to get the code. Didn't work though. Just tried it and I'm back to the wait message. I'm using the scan buttons to select the number and the 1 button to enter it. Seems like its entering the number correctly, moving to the next space but no joy. Might be a good thing if it means I've found out the eka code he's given me is probably no good either. :/

About an hour into the drive the 'wait' was over! Now I just need the code. Will the kind, non profit motivated folks at Land Rover just tell me the code if I call them, or will there need to be a certain amount of palm greasing?